Last Exhaust Valve

Last Exhaust Valve

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Discussion

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Saturday 2nd March 2013
quotequote all
My last exhaust valve closest to the bulk head has closed up to 8 thou (tight 9 so guessing 8.5). How many of you guys on here who've done this have changed this without lifting the cams.

There's bugger all space to manoeuvre in terms of compressing the valve and sliding the follower aside. These things seem to have been designed for maintenance by spider monkeys.

Edited by m4tti on Saturday 2nd March 19:44

crypto

239 posts

247 months

Saturday 2nd March 2013
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Never done it myself, but I don't think you can do it without lifting the cam.
Here's a german thread regarding this matter, maybe the pics might help ...

http://www.tvr-forum.de/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=4...

Sagi Badger

610 posts

199 months

Sunday 3rd March 2013
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Done it without lifting the cams, and wouldn't recommend this anyway. Most of the finger followers will slide sideways, the end ones are the exception and yes spider monkey helpers and fingers with universal joints help on these. Have you tried turning the shim? They tend to get wear lines if they don't freely rotate in service so the finger followers tend to wear them. If you find them tight wet and dry them carefully to reduce the diameter slightly so they rotate freely, think there may be some soft shims which deform over time and spread.

Don't forget to block the oil returns, I did do this but not well enough and dropped a shim whilst pulling the rag out of the hole looking for the last shim I dropped, dohhhh, and yes it was the last exhaust shim..... an hour fishing with a magnetic thingy paid dividends.

J

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 4th March 2013
quotequote all
Thanks sagi. I think I'll lift the cam, I haven't tried turning the shim as I can barely compress the valve. I'll take one more look but it seems almost impossible to compress where it is. The alternative is I leave it as its 2 thou under min.

With regard to the shims, I've been replacing them where they've needed doing. I can tell some of mine have been sanded previous and have lips. So to be extra cautious I'm swapping them out. I've bought a prox 10mm shim kit.

Edited by m4tti on Monday 4th March 07:53

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 4th March 2013
quotequote all
Sagi Badger said:
Done it without lifting the cams, and wouldn't recommend this anyway. Most of the finger followers will slide sideways, the end ones are the exception

J
What did you use to compress the last valve. Am I right in thinking the engine in the sagaris is set as far back under the body as the tuscan

Sagi Badger

610 posts

199 months

Thursday 7th March 2013
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Matt,

Think they are about the same position, although you may find taking the apron off under the wipers helps. I used a clean and smooth tyre lever. I found a magnetic pick up tool was the easiest way to get the shims out.

Good luck,

j

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Saturday 9th March 2013
quotequote all
Done! Sorted on the third attempt. Was made much much easier by climbing into the engine bay so I was looking directly down on the valve.

In the tuscan there's a clear area on the chassis where the oil cooler is which I managed to squeeze in, whilst balancing on the wheel arch.

Crouching numpty hidden valve shim biggrin