Clutch, master or Slave cylinder problems?!?!
Discussion
My car is suffering from difficult gear changes across the box. The clutch was changed 4000 miles ago. So I would hope the fingers have lasted that long! It takes a bit of force and time to select 1st or 2nd when stationary with the engine running 3rd is easier. If you go from 5th to reverse slowly the reverse gear will spin up and grind, so needs a swift selection from 5th to reverse. You need to rev match and be careful when on the move, whist going through the box. Some times you'll get a slight grind if you force the gear, this can happen up and down the box and it doesn't do it all the time. The car doesn't seem to creep when the clutch is fully depressed (I've not tried with the rear jacked up yet just on the road). It starts to engage very close to the bottom of the pedal then seems to stop engaging until the clutch pedal is near the top, then it engages fast.
I've got a slight leak from the master cylinder which, I'll change. But I've got a feeling its not the sole culprit to the clutch problems. As the leak is very minor. From the invoice for the clutch change there is no mention of the slave cylinder being replaced. Does anyone know if Track Vs Road change these when fitting a new clutch as standard practise? Are there any tail tail sights that I've got a faulty slave without removing the box to have a look.
If I can't pin the problem to either the save or the master cylinder I guess I'll be changing the clutch. But I'd be shocked if the fingers have broken all ready. I like to think I treat my cars with mechanical sympathy.
The problem seems to be getting worse slowly.
Any tips or pointers or anyone who's suffered the same symptoms in the past. Any feed back would be much appreciated.
I've got a slight leak from the master cylinder which, I'll change. But I've got a feeling its not the sole culprit to the clutch problems. As the leak is very minor. From the invoice for the clutch change there is no mention of the slave cylinder being replaced. Does anyone know if Track Vs Road change these when fitting a new clutch as standard practise? Are there any tail tail sights that I've got a faulty slave without removing the box to have a look.
If I can't pin the problem to either the save or the master cylinder I guess I'll be changing the clutch. But I'd be shocked if the fingers have broken all ready. I like to think I treat my cars with mechanical sympathy.
The problem seems to be getting worse slowly.
Any tips or pointers or anyone who's suffered the same symptoms in the past. Any feed back would be much appreciated.
Just had almost exactly the same dramas on my Tuscan.
Slave cylinder had gone and the fingers were well worn, so opted for both to be changed.
Not much change from £2k by the time the other bits and pieces were done, but at least I can change gear now!
Not that the domestic banker cares, she just reminds me that, that money could have been a holiday for the family! Tsk....women and their warped priorities!
Slave cylinder had gone and the fingers were well worn, so opted for both to be changed.
Not much change from £2k by the time the other bits and pieces were done, but at least I can change gear now!
Not that the domestic banker cares, she just reminds me that, that money could have been a holiday for the family! Tsk....women and their warped priorities!
steve320ise said:
Hi I have had very similar on my tuscan, the leak was so small I only found it when the cylinder was out, I went for a Wilwood type around £30 from a rally supplier better quality direct replacement job done, err well apart from fitting it, Houdini would have passed on this one
Do you have the supplier name and The part number. Would be interested to compare to standard and raceproved.The gear selection with the engine off is still not how it should be. I'll be replacing the master cylinder next week as I think that's the most likely bit to be at fault and the easiest to change.
I would also be interested in the Wilwood direct replacement master cylinder. The cheapest TVR one I've found is £56.
I would also be interested in the Wilwood direct replacement master cylinder. The cheapest TVR one I've found is £56.
Hi, Rally Design are the supplier I used the part number is RD3616 0.75 bore, this is slightly bigger on the bore than standard but you can get the smaller size, you will have to use the old push rod as they come with one that wont fit or you can buy a new one from them as well, The quality is far better on these, Thanks
Well it wasn't the clutch master cylinder at fault. So gearbox needs to come off now. What a faff. It was a real pain changing that master cylinder with little access.
Not overly impressed the clutch has only lasted 3000 miles.
One thing I did notice is the clutch fluid was very black. Could the seals in the slave cylinder have gone. Would this be obvious once the bell housing has come off?
Not overly impressed the clutch has only lasted 3000 miles.
One thing I did notice is the clutch fluid was very black. Could the seals in the slave cylinder have gone. Would this be obvious once the bell housing has come off?
The clutch has now been liberated from the flywheel. Clutch fingers are all fine and the plates are very healthy. After speaking to TVR power I've found that two of the three clutch retaining clips where broken http://www.tvrpower.co.uk/store/slug/clutch-retain... I would have never seen this if I hadn't spoken to Power. This I was told was a contributor to the clutch dragging.
The slave cylinder looks to have had a very slight leak. I went ahead and bought new seals for it. But on trying to remove the four allen bolts holding the slave to the bell-housing, one rounded (bloody great). The Dremal came to the rescue once again by cutting a slot in the bolt head. Which I then attacked with a impact driver and thankfully the bolt gave in. I've decided to buy a raceproved slave cylinder as they seem to get good reviews on here.
I've still got to put it all back together. Hopefully it'll all go back on a little easier than removing it all. I wasn't expecting to have to remove so much stuff off the car to get to this stage. But access is very limited, I can safely say T350's where not designed with easy maintenance in mind.
The slave cylinder looks to have had a very slight leak. I went ahead and bought new seals for it. But on trying to remove the four allen bolts holding the slave to the bell-housing, one rounded (bloody great). The Dremal came to the rescue once again by cutting a slot in the bolt head. Which I then attacked with a impact driver and thankfully the bolt gave in. I've decided to buy a raceproved slave cylinder as they seem to get good reviews on here.
I've still got to put it all back together. Hopefully it'll all go back on a little easier than removing it all. I wasn't expecting to have to remove so much stuff off the car to get to this stage. But access is very limited, I can safely say T350's where not designed with easy maintenance in mind.
So do you have a nailed-on answer to this issue now? I have had similar issues to this but not in a TVR, creeping forward with the clutch in, grinding gears, struggling to get out of gear etc. The answer to my issue was simply the fluid turned out to be cream-crackered. Drained it, replaced it, bled it through, problem solved!
Not sure if the T350 has the same clutch components as the Tuscan(?), but I had to change my slave cylinder which was leaking. Was about a 3-4hr job, but no sooner had the new 1 gone in it started to leak again almost instantly. Basically they're completely tosh and not up to the job!
Not sure if the T350 has the same clutch components as the Tuscan(?), but I had to change my slave cylinder which was leaking. Was about a 3-4hr job, but no sooner had the new 1 gone in it started to leak again almost instantly. Basically they're completely tosh and not up to the job!
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