Oil Tank Fittings

Oil Tank Fittings

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Discussion

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
I removed my oil tank at weekend to flush it while I service the car. The oil pump hose at the base of the tank was extremely corroded, and it looked like some genuis had cross threaded it on.

When finally undoing the hose the thread has been removed from the union welded in to the tank.

Can anybody give me the exact spec of that union. I can have a new outlet welded in if I can find a suitable replacement.

Heres the old one



Closest I can find is this http://www.lasaero.com/site/products/article?id=N0... but it doesnt have the cone end

Its enough to drive a saint mad furious

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
Page 212 in orange book

Its JIC-17

I would machine flush/square, and tap the boss thats left 3/4" BSP(if there is enough meat in the boss), then put in a male/male adaptor to suit.


HTH


G

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
Hi Graham, thanks for the help, didnt spot that in the manual.

The only problem with fitting the male to male adaptor is that it will push the hose connection further away from the tank, which would make the coupling where the hose meets almost impossible to access on the tuscan.. if that makes sense.

It would put the coupling under the coolant hose to the oil cooler and between the triangulated tubular bracing top and bottom of the chassis, so may try and keep it as standard for now.

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
m4tti said:
Hi Graham, thanks for the help, didnt spot that in the manual.

The only problem with fitting the male to male adaptor is that it will push the hose connection further away from the tank, which would make the coupling where the hose meets almost impossible to access on the tuscan.. if that makes sense.

It would put the coupling under the coolant hose to the oil cooler and between the triangulated tubular bracing top and bottom of the chassis, so may try and keep it as standard for now.
Yes, understood, umm,

Think you are back to..... machine up a new one with, say, a spigot to locate and TIG weld etc.?

G

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
I might be missing something here (with my limited knowledge of pipe fittings) but I cant for the life of me find a JIC17 weld fitting on google. Am i reading the spec wrong.

For example this site doesnt seem to list a 17 but the 12 has a 1 1/16 fitting

http://www.competitionsupplies.com/fluid-transfer/...

Same at this site, seem to be even numbers http://www.speedflowshop.co.uk/-16-male-weld-on-99...

Edited by m4tti on Monday 2nd July 21:27

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
17 = 17/16"

so is 1 1/16"-12 SAE/UNF

-12 is threads per inch TPI

the one listed is correct, a result, just need a good welder etc.

G

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
Excellent. Thanks again for the help, spec is all clear now.

Ive found a radiator repair place who will weld in the new fitting, flush and test the tank a few miles from me luckily.

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Monday 2nd July 2012
quotequote all
Tank base is full of coarse steel wool so when flushed use petrol after to further flush

Usual safety & environmental stuff

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2012
quotequote all
What also concerns me is metal debris getting into the wire wool when the old boss is removed.

Also concerned now that I cut the original elbow on the oil which produced metal particles which went into the neck of that bottom boss.

Can the wire wool be flushed effectively to remove such debris or will it need replacing?

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2012
quotequote all
Cleanliness is # 1,

On the tank I would insert a close fitting nylon dowl, or high temp grease in the base of the old boss to prevent swarf entering.
The tank has to be split to remove the steel wire.

On the hose just reomve and replace, just check no swarf has entered the oil pump!

G

Edited by VARLEYHYD on Sunday 8th July 07:20

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2012
quotequote all
Luckily (Kind of) I cut the hose with the tank out of the car (to try and make removing the union easier) but realised that some fine metal dust had entered the boss neck. At least it not in the oil pump end.

I spoke to TVR Power this morning. They have the new fitting and are sending it out to me.

The chap I spoke to doesnt beleive there is any wire wool as such in the tank, but a wire gauze. he says anything which goes in the tank will flush out. Not sure what to do now confused

Paranoid about any debris getting in the tank and then exiting into the oil flow.

Edited by m4tti on Tuesday 3rd July 14:04

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2012
quotequote all
Sounds OK

Its not fine wire wool, but yep, steel gauze.

Power's advice will be correct,
plenty of flushing untill clean will do it.

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Tuesday 3rd July 2012
quotequote all
Phewwww ! I was about to get my can opener out and whip out the contents of the tank.

I'll just spend a fair amount of time flushing it, could chuck the final flush through a paint filter just to be over cautious.. bit like panning for gold. biggrin

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Friday 6th July 2012
quotequote all
Ok have oil tank back with fitting welded in place.

Ive put a bit of parafin through the tank to flush and im getting lots of the fine metal where the old fitting was ground off.

Is it safe to flush with water and wahsing up liquid followed by parafin or petrol. The sump magnet has very fine sparkling glittery debris on it that I want to get shot of.

When retruning the hose is it sufficient to bleed by attaching to the tank and the pump inlet on the block, fill tank with oil, then bleed by loosening the hose at the pump end till oil pushes through?

RPE11Y

982 posts

267 months

Saturday 7th July 2012
quotequote all
VARLEYHYD said:
Page 212 in orange book
What orange book confused

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
m4tti said:
Ok have oil tank back with fitting welded in place.

Ive put a bit of parafin through the tank to flush and im getting lots of the fine metal where the old fitting was ground off.

Is it safe to flush with water and wahsing up liquid followed by parafin or petrol. The sump magnet has very fine sparkling glittery debris on it that I want to get shot of.

When retruning the hose is it sufficient to bleed by attaching to the tank and the pump inlet on the block, fill tank with oil, then bleed by loosening the hose at the pump end till oil pushes through?
Trust you got it sorted ok, the crap on the mag sump plug won't be the aluminium as its not magnetic, just crap stuck in the gauze.

VARLEYHYD

2,244 posts

213 months

Sunday 8th July 2012
quotequote all
RPE11Y said:
VARLEYHYD said:
Page 212 in orange book
What orange book confused
Oh sorry, the speed six sagaris workshop manual.

The web page with the info about this is on my profile

G

m4tti

Original Poster:

5,464 posts

161 months

Wednesday 11th July 2012
quotequote all
VARLEYHYD said:
Trust you got it sorted ok, the crap on the mag sump plug won't be the aluminium as its not magnetic, just crap stuck in the gauze.
Hi graham. Thanks. Having brain fade. Of course it can't be the tank or any of the fittings. It's either material that in some way has come through from the engine or where I cut off the hose fitting. There's nothing in the gauze inlet filter at all.

Have had a bad cold so the cars sat for a week drained of oil while the tank was out, I disconnected all hoses and drained them too. The tanks back in. What's the best procedure to refil?

Once refilled Should I crank without activating the immobiliser and/fuel pump relay to push oil back round the system.