Engine fires up, but cuts out.
Discussion
Hi
Since owning the car the idle speed has always been rather high - on average about 1,000 rpm.
It had a 12k service last week and since picking it up I've noticed they've sorted this out as it now idles around 700rpm. Sometimes a bit less (I've seen 500rpm occasionally).
The problem I am having seems to come about when the engine is cold. Past few mornings I've gone to start the car, and whilst it fires immediately as it always has done, it only runs for a few seconds before cutting out. Doesn't seem to matter how many times I restart, or even if I give it a few revs to help it along, it cuts out as soon as I lift off the accelerator.
The strange thing is, as soon as I start to move the problem goes away. By the time I've driven 10 metres, I can come to a stop and the car will not cut out any more.
I would run it back to the garage which did the service, however it's 3 hours drive away so I'm a little reluctant too. Is there anything I could be checking by myself?
Cheers
Since owning the car the idle speed has always been rather high - on average about 1,000 rpm.
It had a 12k service last week and since picking it up I've noticed they've sorted this out as it now idles around 700rpm. Sometimes a bit less (I've seen 500rpm occasionally).
The problem I am having seems to come about when the engine is cold. Past few mornings I've gone to start the car, and whilst it fires immediately as it always has done, it only runs for a few seconds before cutting out. Doesn't seem to matter how many times I restart, or even if I give it a few revs to help it along, it cuts out as soon as I lift off the accelerator.
The strange thing is, as soon as I start to move the problem goes away. By the time I've driven 10 metres, I can come to a stop and the car will not cut out any more.
I would run it back to the garage which did the service, however it's 3 hours drive away so I'm a little reluctant too. Is there anything I could be checking by myself?
Cheers
Sounds like the cold start idle is set too low. When I start mine up first time it idles just under 1k revs.
Yours sounds a bit low at 700-500rpm.
When the engine is cold it needs a bit more fuel to stop it cutting out (sort of like a choke in the old cars)
I'm pretty sure it's a simple fix although I've never done it so cant tell you how. If you can't do it yourself then you shouldn't need to take the car to your usual garage, search for a local indie and give them a bell.
Yours sounds a bit low at 700-500rpm.
When the engine is cold it needs a bit more fuel to stop it cutting out (sort of like a choke in the old cars)
I'm pretty sure it's a simple fix although I've never done it so cant tell you how. If you can't do it yourself then you shouldn't need to take the car to your usual garage, search for a local indie and give them a bell.
to be honest I consider this as 'normal' for my car. Especially if it has been a few months since my last trip to the garage. They always adjust it a little bit so on a cold startup i get about 900 rpm. Especially when it is a bit colder outside it happens that I need to keep my foot on the throttle as it will typically only reach soemwhere between 500 and 7000 rpm.... Until I drive out my street and then it's ok.
The screw is easy to find and adjust (I have done it myself. I have the cold idle set at 900 rpm, that way when hot but stationary I have enough rpm for decent oil pressure and none of the cold start problem.
Also, starting with your foot on the throttle seems to cause all sorts of problems for the ecu managing fuel. Mine runs so much better if my foot is clear of the throttle on start up.
Also, starting with your foot on the throttle seems to cause all sorts of problems for the ecu managing fuel. Mine runs so much better if my foot is clear of the throttle on start up.
Graham Varley's Excellent Sagaris Website said:
Engine Idle; This is not a fix for a lack of a service. It is just an interim measure , and is no substitute for a diagnostic reset. If the car has just been serviced it should always idle from cold no problem, but can reduce after 1000 miles. Best thing is get the diagnostics reset between services.
Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
Thanks very much for that.
Graham Varley's Excellent Sagaris Website said:
Adjust at centre between 3 & 4 under the fuel rail the lower grub screw of the two is the idle screw with a locknut on it, gently push against the spring to see the increase in idle revs and see the correct one for adjustment. Firstly clean the airbox, pipes and throttle bodies as this can effect cold idle; With engine stopped and cold loosen 8mm locknut and start engine and check idle rpm, set by adjusting grub screw to 750-800 cold, this should be about 850-950rpm when hot, tighten locknut. The idle can become lower between service intervals as the tappets clearance reduces.
Is this the idle screw?Possibly, its hard to tell from the pic and there are a couple of similar ones in that area.
You can identify it by tits function. Undo the lock nut, and turn the grub screw, it just presses against a plat and stops the throttles from closing quite as much. My car is tucked away at the moment so I cant go and look
You can identify it by tits function. Undo the lock nut, and turn the grub screw, it just presses against a plat and stops the throttles from closing quite as much. My car is tucked away at the moment so I cant go and look
Hi,
Having spoken to a few people about idle issues, because mine needs increasing, I'm wondering why you reduced yours in the first place? 1000 seems to be average or a good level particularly in summer and it drops in winter/cold naturally anyway e.g. 800. I thought sp6 was fine at slightly higher idle? baring in mind engine is higher rpm focused. I've also been advised to not just alter it via the screw. The idle will also change between services as well, it can drop although not right after a service.
Having spoken to a few people about idle issues, because mine needs increasing, I'm wondering why you reduced yours in the first place? 1000 seems to be average or a good level particularly in summer and it drops in winter/cold naturally anyway e.g. 800. I thought sp6 was fine at slightly higher idle? baring in mind engine is higher rpm focused. I've also been advised to not just alter it via the screw. The idle will also change between services as well, it can drop although not right after a service.
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