warming up procedure
Discussion
andydw said:
I've seen many references to warming the engine "following the correct procedure". I'm curious to know what this procedure is. Anybody care to enlighten me?
Get in, push down the throttle as hard as you can, fire up the engine, until you see an orange, then red light coming on and blinking, then drive off and repeat in every gear.That, or the above
clive f said:
basically, start the engine, dont leave it on the driveway warming up for ages,drive it lightly under 3000rpm until oil temp is above 40deg, then you can drive up to 4000rpm until oil temp reaches 60deg, once warmed up then give it some beans.
That's pretty much what I do already. Did much the same with the Chim. I tend to take it easy for 15 mins or so then build up the revs.Then plant it, and hang on!
Just joking Officer.
clive f said:
basically, start the engine, dont leave it on the driveway warming up for ages,drive it lightly under 3000rpm until oil temp is above 40deg, then you can drive up to 4000rpm until oil temp reaches 60deg, once warmed up then give it some beans.
In addition to this i thought it was 6,000 until 80 degrees before the beans cpould be given. This does prove to be an issue in the winter when after a 20-30 minute run the oil temp is still between 50 & 60 degrees.To be honest I think you'll get a load of different answers on this topic but as long as the driver takes it easy most methods will be fine.
The one I use is to start the car, hold the revs at 2k for a few seconds to push the oil round before moving off. 2500rpm until I see 40deg oil and then 3500rpm until the oil gets to 70deg (though in the cooler weather we have now a judgement call is made based on time running) then it's playtime.
The one I use is to start the car, hold the revs at 2k for a few seconds to push the oil round before moving off. 2500rpm until I see 40deg oil and then 3500rpm until the oil gets to 70deg (though in the cooler weather we have now a judgement call is made based on time running) then it's playtime.
andydw said:
That's pretty much what I do already. Did much the same with the Chim. I tend to take it easy for 15 mins or so then build up the revs.
In speaking to people and reading many posts on here I have never seen any sensible post which advises anything different to warming up an S6 than is good practice for any engine. By co-incidence I was reading a 1334 Alvis handbook last week and the 'reasonable revs for a few seconds to get the oil flowing' advice was in that as well.Zippee said:
To be honest I think you'll get a load of different answers on this topic but as long as the driver takes it easy most methods will be fine.
The one I use is to start the car, hold the revs at 2k for a few seconds to push the oil round before moving off. 2500rpm until I see 40deg oil and then 3500rpm until the oil gets to 70deg (though in the cooler weather we have now a judgement call is made based on time running) then it's playtime.
It's basic mechanical sympathy. Certainly, leaving a car idling on the drive for X minutes will warm the engine, but there remains the rest of the drive train too. The 'box and diff also need 'warming up' as well.The one I use is to start the car, hold the revs at 2k for a few seconds to push the oil round before moving off. 2500rpm until I see 40deg oil and then 3500rpm until the oil gets to 70deg (though in the cooler weather we have now a judgement call is made based on time running) then it's playtime.
This time of year I struggle to get my oil up to 60 degC, even after a 20/25 minute drive. However, once in slow moving traffic, the temp comes up fairly quickly. I feel that after a 15 mile run, everything should be at a sufficient temp to go beyond the 3K rpm limit.
Nick
nawarne said:
It's basic mechanical sympathy. Certainly, leaving a car idling on the drive for X minutes will warm the engine, but there remains the rest of the drive train too. The 'box and diff also need 'warming up' as well.
Nick
And tyres !!!!Nick
I always exhibit mechanical sympathy too, even on BMW daily driver, but purely out of curiosity, what is the physics behind the difference in engine wear between oil at 15 degrees and oil at 60 degrees ??? By the time I pull off my drive, all internal engine components are covered in oil at ambient air temperature so why does hot oil reduce wear more than cool oil ??
Edit: appreciate this is not an F1 engine, but even so tolerances/gaps increase slightly as engine warms
RedSpike66 said:
And tyres !!!!
I always exhibit mechanical sympathy too, even on BMW daily driver, but purely out of curiosity, what is the physics behind the difference in engine wear between oil at 15 degrees and oil at 60 degrees ??? By the time I pull off my drive, all internal engine components are covered in oil at ambient air temperature so why does hot oil reduce wear more than cool oil ??
Edit: appreciate this is not an F1 engine, but even so tolerances/gaps increase slightly as engine warms
I would say it is the oil's ability to flow and reach all the bearing/wearing surfaces. You then get into the choice of oil grades/viscosity....which is indicative of its ability to flow...and so another discussion point arises! The viscosity numbers will be quoted for a set number of conditions - temp being one of them.I always exhibit mechanical sympathy too, even on BMW daily driver, but purely out of curiosity, what is the physics behind the difference in engine wear between oil at 15 degrees and oil at 60 degrees ??? By the time I pull off my drive, all internal engine components are covered in oil at ambient air temperature so why does hot oil reduce wear more than cool oil ??
Edit: appreciate this is not an F1 engine, but even so tolerances/gaps increase slightly as engine warms
Even your body (a machine, in essence) requires warming-up prior to strenuous exercise!!
Nick
JR said:
In speaking to people and reading many posts on here I have never seen any sensible post which advises anything different to warming up an S6 than is good practice for any engine. By co-incidence I was reading a 1334 Alvis handbook last week and the 'reasonable revs for a few seconds to get the oil flowing' advice was in that as well.
The one think often missed is the consideration for not letting the engine labour - something that's easy to do when setting an upper rev limit as low as 2500rpm.TVR_owner said:
JR said:
In speaking to people and reading many posts on here I have never seen any sensible post which advises anything different to warming up an S6 than is good practice for any engine. By co-incidence I was reading a 1334 Alvis handbook last week and the 'reasonable revs for a few seconds to get the oil flowing' advice was in that as well.
The one think often missed is the consideration for not letting the engine labour - something that's easy to do when setting an upper rev limit as low as 2500rpm.RedSpike66 said:
By the time I pull off my drive, all internal engine components are covered in oil at ambient air temperature so why does hot oil reduce wear more than cool oil ??
I'm not sure (and someone can correct me) but I recon that as the oil increases in temperature so does the engine and all its internal components, which mean they expand (ever so slightly). Outside the better flow of oil at higher temperature the hotter the engine components the better they mate together (I could be wrong lol)
I use a pre-heater, so the oil is 60 odd degrees when I turn it on, then it settles to mid 20's after a few seconds as it runs round the (cold) engine.
I use the 2500rpm limit as a maximum until 50 degrees, and then I use a system of '-20' as a hard limit, but generally still taking it steady until 'properly' warm:
50 = 3000rpm
55 = 3500rpm
60 = 4000rpm
As said above the 'warm' temperature depends on the time of year, and type of driving. If you drive on a motorway in the winter, your warm engine will probably drop to 30 degrees or so, due to sensor location - so a lot is just common sense.
I use the 2500rpm limit as a maximum until 50 degrees, and then I use a system of '-20' as a hard limit, but generally still taking it steady until 'properly' warm:
50 = 3000rpm
55 = 3500rpm
60 = 4000rpm
As said above the 'warm' temperature depends on the time of year, and type of driving. If you drive on a motorway in the winter, your warm engine will probably drop to 30 degrees or so, due to sensor location - so a lot is just common sense.
Mattt said:
I use a pre-heater, so the oil is 60 odd degrees when I turn it on, then it settles to mid 20's after a few seconds as it runs round the (cold) engine.
I use the 2500rpm limit as a maximum until 50 degrees, and then I use a system of '-20' as a hard limit, but generally still taking it steady until 'properly' warm:
50 = 3000rpm
55 = 3500rpm
60 = 4000rpm
As said above the 'warm' temperature depends on the time of year, and type of driving. If you drive on a motorway in the winter, your warm engine will probably drop to 30 degrees or so, due to sensor location - so a lot is just common sense.
Matt,I use the 2500rpm limit as a maximum until 50 degrees, and then I use a system of '-20' as a hard limit, but generally still taking it steady until 'properly' warm:
50 = 3000rpm
55 = 3500rpm
60 = 4000rpm
As said above the 'warm' temperature depends on the time of year, and type of driving. If you drive on a motorway in the winter, your warm engine will probably drop to 30 degrees or so, due to sensor location - so a lot is just common sense.
Is condensation an issue, or are enhanced levels of moisture noticable in the oil?
Gassing Station | Speed Six Engine | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff