Exiges.com - S2 Stack AFR Gauge install.

[gizard]

Anyone here a member? I have tried registering and get told that my membership needs to be approved by admin and have waited for about a week but get no email confirmation - used to be a member years ago when I had an S1.

I'd like to get some info from one of the members on how they fitted a Stack AFR gauge in an S2 as the cable is not long enough (see link below)...

http://www.exiges.com/ubbz/ubbz/ubbthreads.php?ubb...

cheers

G.

[Scuffers]

at a guess, you should order it with longer cables? (SPA do longer ones for their gauges)

reading that link made me chuckle...

"AT NO TIME DID THE AFR GO ABOVE 13.5 on WOT ....."

it's all well and good having a gauge, but if you don't understand the implications of what it's telling you, then it's somewhat pointless!

[Herman Toothrot]

Scuffers said:

at a guess, you should order it with longer cables? (SPA do longer ones for their gauges)

reading that link made me chuckle...

"AT NO TIME DID THE AFR GO ABOVE 13.5 on WOT ....."

it's all well and good having a gauge, but if you don't understand the implications of what it's telling you, then it's somewhat pointless!

13.5:1 I hope thats a normally aspirated car...

• edit - just clicked the link, a Forced Induction car on boost WOT 13.5:1 that's not to clever.. On a MoTeC training course I did the trainer said 12.7:1 absolute leanest on boost unless its a race car and your doing very regular rebuilds... 12:1 if you want OEM reliablity.

Edited by Herman Toothrot on Monday 14th February 20:33

[gizard]

Unfortunately stack don't do one with a longer cable which seems bizzare, i guess they are designed for front engine cars?

Anyone know what the best / shortest cable route would be from the manifold to just in front of the gearstick on an s2?

Cheers.

[jfk01]

Scuffers said:

at a guess, you should order it with longer cables? (SPA do longer ones for their gauges)

reading that link made me chuckle...

"AT NO TIME DID THE AFR GO ABOVE 13.5 on WOT ....."

it's all well and good having a gauge, but if you don't understand the implications of what it's telling you, then it's somewhat pointless!

As this is proven to have a richer trace than a standard 260 I suppose you too are brighter than Lotus,s own engineers who produce these cars ?
I suppose all 260's are going to melt then Simon?

[Scuffers]

jfk01 said:

As this is proven to have a richer trace than a standard 260 I suppose you too are brighter than Lotus,s own engineers who produce these cars ?
I suppose all 260's are going to melt then Simon?

that would be funny if it was not so sad.

you might want to review your use of the word 'proven' in the context of an un-calibrated gauge.

[jfk01]

The 'gauge' you are questioning is a dynapack hub dyno ..
My car was proven to be running half a point richer than a standard 260 right through the rev range ...
Anyhow it is your mocking manner that caught my attention .
All the best John.

[mikem7709]

Are we saying standard 260`s run 14:1 at WOT ?

[djroadboy]

To answer the OP's question. I have fitted a few of these and the only way to do it is to extend the wires. Not a massive job though.

HTH

Dan

[Scuffers]

jfk01 said:

The 'gauge' you are questioning is a dynapack hub dyno ..
My car was proven to be running half a point richer than a standard 260 right through the rev range ...
Anyhow it is your mocking manner that caught my attention .
All the best John.

FYI International dyno's don't make lambda sensors/gauges....

(you have to use an external one and feed it's output into the dynapack's PC)

[gizard]

djroadboy said:

To answer the OP's question. I have fitted a few of these and the only way to do it is to extend the wires. Not a massive job though.

HTH

Dan

Ha ha thought this thread was dead and gone! actually managed to fit the gauge without extending the wires and had about 4cm spare!

cheers

G

[jfk01]

^^^ lol @ gizard ^^^
And now Suffers has revealed that we are wasting out time cos the gauges are not calibrated !!!
Gotta love forums

[gizard]

Hmm well I can't remember how accurate the stack afr gauge is meant to be but it appears to log/display what Essex autosport said the map would do. But ultimately it is a bit of a pointless gauge imo as if it does warn me of a dangerously lean condition I suspect the damage will happen too fast for any thing to be done about it! I guess I need to have more of a read up on the manual (i haven't actually driven the car since I fitted that gauge due family problems ) I wonder if it's worth hooking up the oil T&P and the AFR to the data logger i have.... (all in the name of fun of course).

Changing the subject completly (and I know this has been done to death to different degrees else where and scuffers i do beleive you know what your talking about except you sometimes come across a little harsh - can you expect a reasonable increase in performace (as in less ignition retarding or delaying it) with a better air to air intercooler? I would rather not fit a charge cooler due to all the pluming etc and I only use the car on the open road (try to avoid sitting in traffic) and for short track stints... i.e. 5-6 laps a time depending on track.

cheers

G.

Edited by gizard on Saturday 9th July 07:13

[gizard]

I think all standard loti (if that's the correct term) are built to a price point just like everything else (I used to have a 55 plate 430 and the standard steel brakes on that were shockingly bad (unlike the ones I have on the exige!) but going back to the point I beleive that standard factory 260's do not run too lean but will if you increase and improve the exhuast gas flow, goes back to the point again that the standard manifolds etc. are built to a budget. People have been tunning / tweaking all cars since god knows when, it would be very boring if all cars were the same just like if we all had the same opinion!

[Scuffers]

jfk01 said:

^^^ lol @ gizard ^^^
And now Suffers has revealed that we are wasting out time cos the gauges are not calibrated !!!
Gotta love forums

there are calibrated gauges about, just they cost £££ so 99% of the ones you get are cheaper ones based on the Bosch Sensor (usually the 0 258 007 057 sensor), nothing wrong with that, except they are nothing like as accurate/robust as the NTK ones (but the NTK ones costs somewhat more)

Biggest problem is that when used on dyno's they quickly exceed they ideal temperature at which point they accuracy goes out the window.

[the ronin]

Scuffie is right, it is a case of you get what you pay for and as far as the reading of the A/F you have to know before hand what the safe tuning limits are. 13.5/1 is fine on a light partial throttle pull but at full throttle under load and the engine will be toast shortly.