Discussion
I use my car daily and also about 8 time a year on track. I like how it behaves on the bumpy, undulating roads and from previous experience going for suspension upgrades have found they are usually a downgrade on all but the best condition / smooth roads and longevity.
I was wondering if a good way to lower but retain suspension travel and the original Bilsteins / Eibachs would be GT uprights such as the EP ones, the fronts for example the bearing is 16mm higher on the upright. So I get 16mm lower, retain original geomentry, loose a few grams, gain the ability to bolt on AP 4 pots should I want to upgrade, retain the Bilsteins / Eibach that are nice and comfortable on road. Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
I was wondering if a good way to lower but retain suspension travel and the original Bilsteins / Eibachs would be GT uprights such as the EP ones, the fronts for example the bearing is 16mm higher on the upright. So I get 16mm lower, retain original geomentry, loose a few grams, gain the ability to bolt on AP 4 pots should I want to upgrade, retain the Bilsteins / Eibach that are nice and comfortable on road. Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
Herman Toothrot said:
Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
Don't forget the other £1000+ you'd need for the rear pair. Also, I'm not sure if you can use the standard rear Brembo caliper with them.Is my logic sound or flawed?
Scuffers said:
on the face of it, then no issues, however:
1) GT uprights are designed for 295+ disks
2) it's not recommended to run std (steel) steering arms with them
3) if you have ABS you need to check the are OK with speed sensor hub packs.
I already have a pair of Alcon 295's on Plans bells up front and a set of AP295s and Plans bells in the garage. So thats actually a benefit as I get to use my spare ones (should I do rears as well).1) GT uprights are designed for 295+ disks
2) it's not recommended to run std (steel) steering arms with them
3) if you have ABS you need to check the are OK with speed sensor hub packs.
Ok so need to add the Aluminium front arms at £100 a pair.
It says they can be supplied with ABS hubs if required.
So really no downsides other than cost which for fronts would be £800 if I retained 2 pot AP's or £1600ish If i got 4 pots as well...
thegreenhell said:
Herman Toothrot said:
Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
Don't forget the other £1000+ you'd need for the rear pair. Also, I'm not sure if you can use the standard rear Brembo caliper with them.Is my logic sound or flawed?
Have you tried the Elise on some good quality dampers (Nitron Ntr, Quantum.....).
I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
TIPPER said:
Have you tried the Elise on some good quality dampers (Nitron Ntr, Quantum.....).
I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
I've been in an S1 and a VX220 on Nitrons. The S1 on the NTR single adjustables and the VX on Streets, but both on track only. I agree they did give a good ride and both owners praised them over standard and the one over GAZ that he had before and got ride of because of poor ride. Neither of the owners of these cars use them daily though, only weekend toys.I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
What are your opinions of the Nitrons (which Nitrons?) on the Devon B roads as this type of road would probably compare to what my car gets driven on the most to the tune of 10,000 miles a year.
Herman Toothrot said:
TIPPER said:
Have you tried the Elise on some good quality dampers (Nitron Ntr, Quantum.....).
I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
I've been in an S1 and a VX220 on Nitrons. The S1 on the NTR single adjustables and the VX on Streets, but both on track only. I agree they did give a good ride and both owners praised them over standard and the one over GAZ that he had before and got ride of because of poor ride. Neither of the owners of these cars use them daily though, only weekend toys.I was surprised at the quality of the ride on Nitrons with (an admittedly not overstiff) 400/475 front to rear spring rate. The ride was firm but the quality of the damping is such that the car doesn't jiggle about so perceived ride quality is very good. I can't say I found the car skittish either. Most of my driving was on Devon 'B' roads. On Mways the ride was far better than many a saloon I can think of.
What are your opinions of the Nitrons (which Nitrons?) on the Devon B roads as this type of road would probably compare to what my car gets driven on the most to the tune of 10,000 miles a year.
I covered 40k miles in about 4 years, so similiar mileage to you.
Edited by TIPPER on Wednesday 26th January 21:05
TIPPER said:
Nitron NTR (single way adjustable) dampers with 400/475 lb/sq in springs.
I covered 40k miles in about 4 years, so similiar mileage to you.
Any rebuilds needed in that time or problems, I've read on seloc of people saying they've needed rebuilds in sub 10,000 miles which was off putting.I covered 40k miles in about 4 years, so similiar mileage to you.
I do have the advantage with Nitrons of living not at all far away from them should any issues arise.
Herman Toothrot said:
I use my car daily and also about 8 time a year on track. I like how it behaves on the bumpy, undulating roads and from previous experience going for suspension upgrades have found they are usually a downgrade on all but the best condition / smooth roads and longevity.
I was wondering if a good way to lower but retain suspension travel and the original Bilsteins / Eibachs would be GT uprights such as the EP ones, the fronts for example the bearing is 16mm higher on the upright. So I get 16mm lower, retain original geomentry, loose a few grams, gain the ability to bolt on AP 4 pots should I want to upgrade, retain the Bilsteins / Eibach that are nice and comfortable on road. Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
Unless you have a specific need to lower the car significantly (like 65mm or something) then I would avoid. For sensible ride heights there will be no tangible benific and there is normally PITA fitment issues with these sorts of parts.I was wondering if a good way to lower but retain suspension travel and the original Bilsteins / Eibachs would be GT uprights such as the EP ones, the fronts for example the bearing is 16mm higher on the upright. So I get 16mm lower, retain original geomentry, loose a few grams, gain the ability to bolt on AP 4 pots should I want to upgrade, retain the Bilsteins / Eibach that are nice and comfortable on road. Only down side appears to be the cost? Which really isn't that huge (£700) considering how much people pay for upgraded dampers.
Is my logic sound or flawed?
I covered about 15k on my Nitrons (which I bought used with about 10k on them). My usage included 7 or 8 track days (which works them harder). If I'd kept the car I would probably have had them rebuilt for piece of mind.
Scuffers, how many miles/usage are we talking of with the Quantums.
Scuffers, how many miles/usage are we talking of with the Quantums.
TIPPER said:
I covered about 15k on my Nitrons (which I bought used with about 10k on them). My usage included 7 or 8 track days (which works them harder). If I'd kept the car I would probably have had them rebuilt for piece of mind.
Scuffers, how many miles/usage are we talking of with the Quantums.
don't know is the honest answer, Quantum think that they should be OK for 4+ years without service.Scuffers, how many miles/usage are we talking of with the Quantums.
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