Weird Elise S2 cooling problem - advice sought

Weird Elise S2 cooling problem - advice sought

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bonehead

Original Poster:

39 posts

214 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
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Hi all

My S2 Elise Sport 135 (Rover engined) has developed a weird cooling problem this morning.

Ran it for 2 hours yesterday without issue, but today I was pootling along at 40mph and was horrified to see 103C on the readout!

I pulled into the nearest services (thankfully within 0.5mi), and checked the water level. It was fine - no lost water.

Then I checked the oil level (and condition) - was a tad low (topped it up) and it was in perfect condition (no mayonnaise). Water also looks fine.

Let the car cool down, then drove on to test it.

The water temperature readout is now very erratic:

generally on the move it stays around 90C. Go slowly, it rises dramatically, and stationary at lights it climbs above 100C scarily fast. Fan catches it, and brings it back to 95C, then on the move it can drop to 85C, then back up to 95C, down to 88C, up to 91C. But if I stop at the lights, the temperature rockets up.

Just checked the oil and water (1 hour later) and all is fine.

Any ideas? Sensor? Oil pump/oil pickup problem?

400SE Dave

1,299 posts

176 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
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Could be the Stack temp sensor (the Blue one). Cheap and easy to replace so could be a good place to start.

bonehead

Original Poster:

39 posts

214 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
quotequote all
Hey Dave

Thanks for your post! Yeah, I thought it could be the sensor (I'm an engineer and always distrust sensors' reliability and precision). Do you know if the Stack's sensor gives regular issues? I've read that this could be it's "end of life" dance.

I'll check the sensor tomorrow.

Given that the oil and water are fine and uncontaminated, could it be something else fundamental (i.e. not sensor/display issues)?

  • UPDATE* I have left the car for many hours now, and it's stone cold. Checked the water level in the overflow reservoir, and it was WAY low. When I checked the water originally, the car was still more-than-just-warm, and the coolant system was still pressurised. Had to relieve the pressure slowly by slowly removing the cap, and the water level was normal - with hot water. Now with the system unpressurised and cold water, it's extremely low.
I check the water and oil regularly (practically before every journey), and I've never had a water level issue in the 4+ years I've owned the car...what's going on now???

400SE Dave

1,299 posts

176 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
quotequote all
bonehead said:
Hey Dave

Thanks for your post! Yeah, I thought it could be the sensor (I'm an engineer and always distrust sensors' reliability and precision). Do you know if the Stack's sensor gives regular issues? I've read that this could be it's "end of life" dance.

I'll check the sensor tomorrow.

Given that the oil and water are fine and uncontaminated, could it be something else fundamental (i.e. not sensor/display issues)?

  • UPDATE* I have left the car for many hours now, and it's stone cold. Checked the water level in the overflow reservoir, and it was WAY low. When I checked the water originally, the car was still more-than-just-warm, and the coolant system was still pressurised. Had to relieve the pressure slowly by slowly removing the cap, and the water level was normal - with hot water. Now with the system unpressurised and cold water, it's extremely low.
I check the water and oil regularly (practically before every journey), and I've never had a water level issue in the 4+ years I've owned the car...what's going on now???
Temp sensors do seem to get changed by many, I did mine in the S1 Elise.

As for your edit, it could be the start of HGF, very common with the K series. However, have you noticed any steam/fluid fronm the front end?? May be a hose on the rad worked loose or the start of the famous failure of the end caps on the rad.

Just a thought but if you think it could be HGF then get it in sooner rather than later !

bonehead

Original Poster:

39 posts

214 months

Sunday 16th January 2011
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Thanks mate! Never seen steam (except on some rainy days when I assume rain water is evaporating on top of the radiator when I am stationary).

I'm gonna take it to the specialist and get him to pressure test the coolant system, then check for an imminent HGF.

I'll post the results as soon as I know, so anyone following this thread can see the closure.

daveake

687 posts

231 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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On my S1, whenever I've had the temp gauge randomness it's been the "other" way - it bounces between what I assume is the correct reading (92 say) downwards then back again. Or it will bounce between several random values, all below what I believe the engine is actually at. It never jumped to an artificially high reading. The main thing though is that it changes too fast for it to be a real temperature change.

cptsideways

13,632 posts

257 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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HGF Failure 99% sure of it


The random gauge readouts are steam/vapour passing the gauge sender & giving the wobbly readings.

thegreenhell

16,750 posts

224 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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HGF is a possibility, of course, and naturally the first thing that one thinks of when having any cooling related issues on a K. I have read that the S2 135R is particularly susceptible as the batch of heads that Lotus used on these were more than usually soft and porous.

Another alternative is that you have picked up a small pinhole leak in your radiator, possibly from a stone strike. If the coolant has then been allowed to drop below the bottom of the expansion tank it could have introduced a small airlock in the pipes, which could account for your erratic temperature readings. Check for signs of coolant leaks around the radiator, and possible coolant residue on the radiator air exit and windscreen. I had this a few thousand miles ago, with similar symptoms. Fixed the hole on the rad, topped up and bled the system, and all back to normal and running fine since.

NWTony

2,867 posts

233 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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HGF certainly, mine did the same thing. Exhaust gases are leaking into the coolant system and pressurising it, which is why the coolant level is low and still under pressure when cool, where normally it wouldn't be. Don't run it and be careful for hydrolock as once the engine isn't running the pressure in the system is forcing coolant back the other way into the cylinders.

The reason the temp is all over the place is that the sensor is designed to read in water and from time to time it's in air, or at least dissolved air.

Mine was caused by a failure across the fire ring (?)... not sure that was the exact phrase used mind you! Skimmed and shimmed I believe is the answer.

Textbook I'm afraid frown

jondude

2,387 posts

222 months

Monday 17th January 2011
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Couldn't it just be the inlet manifold gasket? This causes coolant loss when the engine is cold, I believe.

A far more simple fix than HGF. If you are handy with the spanners it will cost you around a fiver to fix. Possibly 2 hours/100 quid or so at a dealer.

John D.

18,369 posts

214 months

Tuesday 18th January 2011
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I had similar symptoms from a small hole in the rad that leaked coolant when engine was under heavy load. Was that small that any leakage burned off without obvious steam. Coolant would not drop just pootling around town. So may not be dreaded HGF.

A specialist clocked it straight away as he could smell the coolant when stood at the front of the car and could see signs of the leak at the corner of the rad.

Could be a loose hose elsewhere of course.

bonehead

Original Poster:

39 posts

214 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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Had a chat with the specialist, and he is not sure yet what it is. He obviously needs to run some tests...but he said the fact that the car was able to control its temperature (with the fan) was promising.

The temperature reading did fluctuate, generally +-5C on an average of 90C, but then would rise when I slowed down/stopped and would cool down under the fan and then moving again. Checked oil again, nothing wrong, checked water reservoir, absolutely no sign of oil contamination. Specialist said it could be HGF causing water to enter the combustion chamber, where the water is simply burned away. Not a good thing, but not a catastrophe.

Scared to drive it though, so gonna arrange for a truck to pick it up and deliver it to the specialist.

Praying that the good sign (able to control the temperature) means it's something inocuous like a rad leak.

Scuffers

20,887 posts

279 months

Wednesday 19th January 2011
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if it's not loosing water, then it's the sender reading crap, they are not exactly reliable as senders go.

zebedee

4,591 posts

283 months

Monday 24th January 2011
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any update?

bonehead

Original Poster:

39 posts

214 months

Tuesday 25th January 2011
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Hi guys

Still waiting for the specialist. He's been sick apparently, so not been able to look at my car yet. I'll update this post as soon as I know concrete information to share.

Thanks for all the inputs! Watch this space, I promise to update as soon as I can!

Oscar the Grouch

213 posts

189 months

Sunday 3rd July 2011
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I had a problem with jumping temperatures - up to 120 degrees showing.
Was getting really concerned about possible problems.
No faults found with the system but the problem persisted.

Today I discovered if I switch headlights off temperature drops from 117 degrees to 85.
Switch headlights on again and it jumps back up.
Obviously an electrical problem.

Mine is an S1


Scuffers

20,887 posts

279 months

Sunday 3rd July 2011
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Oscar the Grouch said:
I had a problem with jumping temperatures - up to 120 degrees showing.
Was getting really concerned about possible problems.
No faults found with the system but the problem persisted.

Today I discovered if I switch headlights off temperature drops from 117 degrees to 85.
Switch headlights on again and it jumps back up.
Obviously an electrical problem.

Mine is an S1
that's the engine grounding issue, they all have this problem sooner or later.

the earth strap from the gearbox to the chassis is into a riv-nut on the chassis end, this is plated and corrodes casing this king of problem.

if you un-bolt it, clean it all up, scratch the shaped washer clean, then re-fix and apply some Vaseline (to prevent it corroding again), this should cure it.

brrrm

15 posts

273 months

Friday 13th April 2012
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Hi Bonehead - what was the final outcome of / solution to your problem? I have very similar symptoms...temperature shooting up as I accelerate, and dropping as i release the throttle. Had the pressure valve on the cooling tank let of several bursts of steam the other day, and thereafter the pressure in the cooling system led to a small burst close to the radiator.... the radiator has sometimes been warm during the high engine temperatures, and sometimes stone cold.
We're pretty sure it is HGF due to the various symptoms described below but just in case you found it was something else I'd love to know before shelling out several thou (i'm in switzerland - labour costs are v high) for the full HGF remedy! Thanks!!