S1 Suspension Upgrade
Discussion
I have a 1999 Series 1 Elise (standard 118bhp model). It is still on what I assume are the original Koni shocks.
The other day, I heard a bit of a knocking from the o/s rear suspension as I went over a bit of a bump at low speed. I've not had chance to investigate yet, however, regardless of the cause, I think it is time to think about freshening up the suspension.
I have not been on the track yet. I would like to at some point (maybe once or twice a year), however, it is my only car and will always be used mostly on the roads. My work travel is mostly public transport and hire cars so it is mostly a toy for hooning on country roads and my general run around. I have not considered any other options, such as Nitrons.
I was thinking the S2 Bilstein upgrade is in order: http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/73/454/s1-...
I'm fairly handy with the spanners and have the help of my cousin who is a qualified mechanic. My plan was to fit the kit with him. I have access to the usual axle stands etc., good quality tools and a spacious level concrete drive.
I would like to take it in somewhere for a geometry set-up afterwards.
My questions:
Dave
The other day, I heard a bit of a knocking from the o/s rear suspension as I went over a bit of a bump at low speed. I've not had chance to investigate yet, however, regardless of the cause, I think it is time to think about freshening up the suspension.
I have not been on the track yet. I would like to at some point (maybe once or twice a year), however, it is my only car and will always be used mostly on the roads. My work travel is mostly public transport and hire cars so it is mostly a toy for hooning on country roads and my general run around. I have not considered any other options, such as Nitrons.
I was thinking the S2 Bilstein upgrade is in order: http://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/73/454/s1-...
I'm fairly handy with the spanners and have the help of my cousin who is a qualified mechanic. My plan was to fit the kit with him. I have access to the usual axle stands etc., good quality tools and a spacious level concrete drive.
I would like to take it in somewhere for a geometry set-up afterwards.
My questions:
- Is the S2 Bilstein option the right one for me?
- Are there any other jobs I should do at the same time? (Ball joints? Bushes?)
- How long should it take?
- How much should I expect to pay for a geo?
- Can anybody recommend somewhere to take it for a geo (I am in east Manchester, right next to the M60)?
Dave
Edited by Ganglandboss on Thursday 13th January 13:00
I also have a 99 S1. Had the suspension fully refurb'ed by Hofmanns when I had the Honda engine fitted. New toe links, brushes etc and wishbones sand blasted and powder coated. Also had the S2 Bilstein's fitted.
Cost was about 3k (all in the same bill with the engine swap). The Bilsteins are just supposes to be a better product, the ride is much the same in firmness terms. I do 20k per year now and have only tracked it the once, had done 88k at time of the works.
Of course doing the suspension is more important if your doubling the power, if your not making such changes I guess it's less important, but the parts are 11 years old now. I did notice a difference on mine when done, there was some vibration on the steering wheel when on the motorway. Along with that I know the main parts are good for another decade.
Don't know regarding Manchester and I ain't Technical I just drive it :-)
Hope this helps
Cost was about 3k (all in the same bill with the engine swap). The Bilsteins are just supposes to be a better product, the ride is much the same in firmness terms. I do 20k per year now and have only tracked it the once, had done 88k at time of the works.
Of course doing the suspension is more important if your doubling the power, if your not making such changes I guess it's less important, but the parts are 11 years old now. I did notice a difference on mine when done, there was some vibration on the steering wheel when on the motorway. Along with that I know the main parts are good for another decade.
Don't know regarding Manchester and I ain't Technical I just drive it :-)
Hope this helps
Responses below....
- Is the S2 Bilstein option the right one for me? - For road use definitely yes
- Are there any other jobs I should do at the same time? (Ball joints? Bushes?) - How many miles has the car done? Expect to have to replace all the suspension components (as you listed) after about 40k miles
- How long should it take? - Just the dampers, about 2 hours
- How much should I expect to pay for a geo? - Take it to Phoenix Motorsport in Accrington, costs about £70
- Can anybody recommend somewhere to take it for a geo (I am in east Manchester, right next to the M60)? As mentioned above
wacattack said:
Responses below....
Thanks! - Is the S2 Bilstein option the right one for me? - For road use definitely yes
- Are there any other jobs I should do at the same time? (Ball joints? Bushes?) - How many miles has the car done? Expect to have to replace all the suspension components (as you listed) after about 40k miles
- How long should it take? - Just the dampers, about 2 hours
- How much should I expect to pay for a geo? - Take it to Phoenix Motorsport in Accrington, costs about £70
- Can anybody recommend somewhere to take it for a geo (I am in east Manchester, right next to the M60)? As mentioned above
In answer to the second point, it has done just under 50,000 miles. I do about 5,000 miles a year (as per my policy limit - I always get a little more hooning in if it looks like I won't get my money's worth).
Change everything while you are at it, then it only needs to be geo once.
Either Nitron Street series, S2 bilstein or Gaz Gold Pro for the dampers.
bushes, ball joints, ARB bushes, ARB droplinks, Toe links (upgrade if funds allow), consider a refurb'd steering rack (prone to wear. again if funds allow), Track rod ends (if required). Change all of them.
It's a bit more work (and a lot more cost) but you wont have to do it again for ages. If you do it in various stages then you will need to get it re-geo'd each time you change something. (£70 a go; soon adds up).
How long will it take? depends on how many bolts are rusted solid! When i did mine last year it took about 3 weekends. But i'd never done it before and i was learning as i went along plus i was painting and cleaning up various parts while they were off the car.
it isn't very difficult, just time consuming.
Either Nitron Street series, S2 bilstein or Gaz Gold Pro for the dampers.
bushes, ball joints, ARB bushes, ARB droplinks, Toe links (upgrade if funds allow), consider a refurb'd steering rack (prone to wear. again if funds allow), Track rod ends (if required). Change all of them.
It's a bit more work (and a lot more cost) but you wont have to do it again for ages. If you do it in various stages then you will need to get it re-geo'd each time you change something. (£70 a go; soon adds up).
How long will it take? depends on how many bolts are rusted solid! When i did mine last year it took about 3 weekends. But i'd never done it before and i was learning as i went along plus i was painting and cleaning up various parts while they were off the car.
it isn't very difficult, just time consuming.
Edited by JBanx on Friday 14th January 11:28
chris7676 said:
You don't need to do the bushes / balljoints at the same time, can always do them later. While it may be of some benefit, you may not need them doing - surely the biggest difference will come from the new / uprated shocks (& springs).
that sort of depends on how 'worn' they are though....if they are the originals, at 12 years old, the will be screwed.
If it was my car, I would look at total re-fresh, pull all the wishbones/ARB/Rack/Dampers/etc and change the lot.
(you could argue it's cheaper to strip/blast/re-plate the wishbones, but to be honest, if you include the time and hassles of this and the chances are at least 1 of them will be bent/corroded beyond recovery, it's just not worth the effort IMHO)
ie. complete set of new wishbones with new bushes and ball joints is some £1,300
buying the bushes on their own is some £245, the another £122 in ball joints, and no hassles fitting them.
at a quick add-up, your looking at some £2K to change everything, then whatever dampers you want (starting with Bilstein's at £570 a set)
Yes, this is a lot, but you can then sell the old stuff on Ebay and drive about knowing nothings fubared.
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