Hard bake pedal
Discussion
Matey with the early S2 elise had the hard brake pedal today 
Apparantly crawling in slowly traffic with everything else working fine including the head gasket and fan ( touch wood better not tempt fate) The bake pedal went hard (no or little movement from top) and the brakes binding. He pulls over and sure enough the car was stiff but not solid. After a while of worrying and looking at the pads through the wheels and even checking the brake fluid, he decides to try and make it home ( or here) without using the brakes too much - hoping theyll free off or more likely start smoking.
About ten miles later and a bumpy piece of road they revert to normal - about 10mm of travel before the pedal bites.
Any ideas?
Apparantly crawling in slowly traffic with everything else working fine including the head gasket and fan ( touch wood better not tempt fate) The bake pedal went hard (no or little movement from top) and the brakes binding. He pulls over and sure enough the car was stiff but not solid. After a while of worrying and looking at the pads through the wheels and even checking the brake fluid, he decides to try and make it home ( or here) without using the brakes too much - hoping theyll free off or more likely start smoking.
About ten miles later and a bumpy piece of road they revert to normal - about 10mm of travel before the pedal bites.
Any ideas?
I had this on my S1.
It happened after a really long drive and after sitting in traffic on a hot day. I was coming off the ferry from Dover, so I was a good 100 miles from home. I found pumping the clutch would get the brakes to release. What I think it was, was air in the system along with heat soak. The air must have expanded creating pressure in the system. I've not done anything about it yet (IE bleading the system) and I've not had it since. But saying that I've not been on any long trips or on hot days, so could come back.
It happened after a really long drive and after sitting in traffic on a hot day. I was coming off the ferry from Dover, so I was a good 100 miles from home. I found pumping the clutch would get the brakes to release. What I think it was, was air in the system along with heat soak. The air must have expanded creating pressure in the system. I've not done anything about it yet (IE bleading the system) and I've not had it since. But saying that I've not been on any long trips or on hot days, so could come back.
TVR Tommy said:
I had this on my S1.
It happened after a really long drive and after sitting in traffic on a hot day. I was coming off the ferry from Dover, so I was a good 100 miles from home. I found pumping the clutch would get the brakes to release. What I think it was, was air in the system along with heat soak. The air must have expanded creating pressure in the system. I've not done anything about it yet (IE bleading the system) and I've not had it since. But saying that I've not been on any long trips or on hot days, so could come back.
that won't do it...It happened after a really long drive and after sitting in traffic on a hot day. I was coming off the ferry from Dover, so I was a good 100 miles from home. I found pumping the clutch would get the brakes to release. What I think it was, was air in the system along with heat soak. The air must have expanded creating pressure in the system. I've not done anything about it yet (IE bleading the system) and I've not had it since. But saying that I've not been on any long trips or on hot days, so could come back.
what will is if the MC rod is adjusted a little too long not allowing it to 100% return to 'open' (ie, when the port to the fluid res is open to the brake ccts and can accept fluid back).
Scuffers said:
either that or the pedals sticking a little at the top.
Not that 
With the pedal released brakes stuck on about 25%?
Pressing the pedal even though it felt solid gave extra braking
Would one wheel cylinder stuck do this or would there still be travel as the other 3 move?
Thinking return valve in master cylinder
How does that work?
Scuffers said:
what will is if the MC rod is adjusted a little too long not allowing it to 100% return to 'open' (ie, when the port to the fluid res is open to the brake ccts and can accept fluid back).
Something interesting in thatHe said the brake lights might have been stuck on too - or it might have been sunlight and he didnt notice the roof strip brake light.
They were working fine later - on/off as they should be - as were the brakes
It was very hot 27C
It happened again
Matey turns up with red hot wheels ( not quite) - it's outside as I speak
The pedal has slight movement now but he says it was rock solid - Why did I show an interest last time?
Adopting the Lotus position :
There's a 10mm hex shaft (unrotatable) going from the rusty trunnion in the pedal and through the bulkhead into the servo by the looks of things.
Should it rotate to adjust?
Matey turns up with red hot wheels ( not quite) - it's outside as I speak
The pedal has slight movement now but he says it was rock solid - Why did I show an interest last time?
Adopting the Lotus position :
There's a 10mm hex shaft (unrotatable) going from the rusty trunnion in the pedal and through the bulkhead into the servo by the looks of things.
Should it rotate to adjust?
PLamborghini said:
Am I the only one who smiled at the title?
childish I know...
childish I know...
Just checked the manual
'Too much preload will not allow the reservoir port to open'
There should be a threadlocked rusty grub screw in the end of the rusty trunnion which when undone should allow the hex shaft to turn if it's not rusted into the trunnion
What chance
Here I am continuing to talk to myself 
Sometime in the future it may be useful for anyone searching for hard bake.
It looks like there are two grub screws from either side of the trunnion. One has the steering rod in the way.
However that may not be the problem.
There is 1-2mm of spare travel between the pedal box and the released pedal so it's not preventing the hex shaft from coming out the master cyclinder
Faulty master cylinder?
useful piece here
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderrepla...
to go with JI-10
Sometime in the future it may be useful for anyone searching for hard bake.
It looks like there are two grub screws from either side of the trunnion. One has the steering rod in the way.
However that may not be the problem.
There is 1-2mm of spare travel between the pedal box and the released pedal so it's not preventing the hex shaft from coming out the master cyclinder
Faulty master cylinder?
useful piece here
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mastercylinderrepla...
to go with JI-10
Edited by saaby93 on Tuesday 29th March 23:00
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