Throttle cable rubber
Discussion
Finally got an Elise. Fecking awesome. 99 V, Azure Blue, 27k, pagids, braided hoses and Brooke Kensington Exhaust. Can't stop grinning!
Anyways, I've adjusted a bit of slack out of the throttle cable. I still find I have a bit of 'play' in the pedal. On the pedal end of the cable is a rubber washer. When depressing the pedal the first few mm of movement goes into compressing this washer and not moving the cable, making heal and toeing kinda difficult. Can this washer be removed or am I missing something elementary?
TIA
Anyways, I've adjusted a bit of slack out of the throttle cable. I still find I have a bit of 'play' in the pedal. On the pedal end of the cable is a rubber washer. When depressing the pedal the first few mm of movement goes into compressing this washer and not moving the cable, making heal and toeing kinda difficult. Can this washer be removed or am I missing something elementary?
TIA
Noticed you've got Pagid pads...mine too, but do yours squeal like b*****y, especially at low speed? Only just fitted mine, so still bedding 'em in but already the inital bite is much better. Less fade than the standards too...Yeah they squeal like a mofo, make me sounds like a bloody black cab!
They were fitted by the pervious owner so they're nicely bedded in, I'm going to get some 'chatter' plates from Halfords (also Lotus do them, or you can use sticky foam pads apparently) and copperslip them up and refit - work well apparently...
They were fitted by the pervious owner so they're nicely bedded in, I'm going to get some 'chatter' plates from Halfords (also Lotus do them, or you can use sticky foam pads apparently) and copperslip them up and refit - work well apparently...
Sounds a bit similar to this:
www.elises.co.uk/problems/common.html
You can get the brass bush here plus a bit more info on the duff throttle pedal design:
www.sandercock.com/elisebush.htm
www.elises.co.uk/problems/common.html
You can get the brass bush here plus a bit more info on the duff throttle pedal design:
www.sandercock.com/elisebush.htm
Hi Trunkie,
Got mine recently and it had the same problem. It's the first job I did and its improved the useability of the car no end.
First of (according to the service manual) the adjustment should be made first at the pedal end so it maybe worth slackening the other end back to it's original position for starters. The cable pivot bracket to cable end retainer should be exactly 20mm - you'll be on your back and unable to mess about with a ruler under there so first make a 20mm cardboard guage.
The adjustment is made by shortening the ball jointed linkage. These joints aren't handed threads (like a track rod end) so you'll have to take off one balljoint and rotate it on the rod - go for the one with the most thread showing. IIRC, you'll need a thin 7mm spanner to get on the shoulder of the ball joint and an 8mm for the nut.
If you set it at 20mm you'll see that the rubber is just about to be compressed at idle. If it's too slack the cable pivot bracket catches the rubber at an angle and can also just clip the cable bracket which can jump when you hit the gas. I'm amased how much better mine is after the adjustment and it has also taken sideplay out of the pedal which was driving me nuts!
Whilst you're under the dash check that pivot - dash bolt of the the multiplyer lever (ally t-crank) is tight. Apparently they can work loose. Don't overdo the nut though 'cos it runs on two thin nylon washers which look like they may distort easily.
Good luck, and enjoy the car!
John S.
BTW, the throttle pedal is designed to sit 30mm below the plane of the brake and clutch pedal!
Got mine recently and it had the same problem. It's the first job I did and its improved the useability of the car no end.
First of (according to the service manual) the adjustment should be made first at the pedal end so it maybe worth slackening the other end back to it's original position for starters. The cable pivot bracket to cable end retainer should be exactly 20mm - you'll be on your back and unable to mess about with a ruler under there so first make a 20mm cardboard guage.
The adjustment is made by shortening the ball jointed linkage. These joints aren't handed threads (like a track rod end) so you'll have to take off one balljoint and rotate it on the rod - go for the one with the most thread showing. IIRC, you'll need a thin 7mm spanner to get on the shoulder of the ball joint and an 8mm for the nut.
If you set it at 20mm you'll see that the rubber is just about to be compressed at idle. If it's too slack the cable pivot bracket catches the rubber at an angle and can also just clip the cable bracket which can jump when you hit the gas. I'm amased how much better mine is after the adjustment and it has also taken sideplay out of the pedal which was driving me nuts!
Whilst you're under the dash check that pivot - dash bolt of the the multiplyer lever (ally t-crank) is tight. Apparently they can work loose. Don't overdo the nut though 'cos it runs on two thin nylon washers which look like they may distort easily.
Good luck, and enjoy the car!
John S.
BTW, the throttle pedal is designed to sit 30mm below the plane of the brake and clutch pedal!
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