coolant level

Author
Discussion

Mat glew

Original Poster:

116 posts

254 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
I've had my elise S1 for two months now and it's been fantastic but I'm a little concerned about the coolant level.
I read somewhere that it's normal for the system to vent excess coolant so that the level will sit at pretty much the minimum on the header tank even if you top up above this.
Mine whoever seems to be sitting about 2cms below the minimum when cold and then on the minimum when warm.
Has anyone else experienced this and is it normal? If I top it up it will go back down to these levels after a few hours deiving?

Bonce

4,339 posts

286 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Mine has been doing exactly that since repair for head gasket failure, but I've had a slow leak from somewhere, I suspect a hose not the head again. It was hopefully fixed in my service this week.

Check where you park to see if you leave a green puddle overnight, mine did - this is easier to see on a garage floor as it won't soak in. It is possible in your case that you have early signs of a head gasket failure. The coolant must be going somewhere so if it's not going onto the floor, it could be going into your oil or exhaust. Check your oil for white gunk.

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Bonce said:

if you leave a green puddle overnight


See a doctor

Seriously, as long as the level is stable and within the marks when the car is warm then it should be fine. Mine sits on the max line when warm and not much further below when cold.

To check for leaks look around the rad and check for greeny blue deposits and take the undertray off and check all the coolant hoses for the same.

Mat glew

Original Poster:

116 posts

254 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
thanks, I can't see any leaks though and once the coolant has reached a level just below the minimum it doesn't go down any further so not sure what it is...

ewojtek

4 posts

254 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Hi - am picking up similar coolant issues as described above (or below?) - Could anyone suggest how I can find an independant Lotus service centre or mechanic - car has been serviced at Bell & Colvill since new and the prices seem to be rising steeply. Closer to SW London the better. Thanks

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Could try Lakeside, think they're near Addlestone.

Gfun

620 posts

256 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Same here but on an S2 - top it up and it stays put until I get stuck in traffic and bingo its on the min line where it sits and looks at me - So decided to keep some water in the boot and watch for it dropping.

As yet it has not moved.

abz 7001

383 posts

259 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Ditto!
S2 has had two separate coolant leaks fixed in the past! One under warranty and one by the lovely Sincalires when it was in for some "additions"!

Noticed at the weekend that level is sitting below minimum again, I check it regularly so its a recnt development! have noticed the running temp creeping alot higher when in traffic and the fan is on alot more frequently - same symptoms as last time!

Cant get mine in til start of October so interested to hear other peoples feedback once they get it checked!

ewojtek

4 posts

254 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
On s1 at least the coolant level is expected to sit on the minimum line - anything else is usually vented out and the max line is just a hethal joke (although not on all cars) - my situation is the coolant dropping below the minimum mark and the temp gauge dropping to 70C (down from its standard 83-87C range)

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Probably because as the car gets hotter in traffic the coolant expands more, so there is more in the system and it vents the excess. When it cools down a bit the coolant contracts and the level drops.

If you're worried about HGF then make sure your coolant level is constant (as long as it's between the marks when the car is at normal running temp it's fine) and check inside the oil filler cap for what looks like mayonnaise which is an emulsion of oil and coolant meaning the head gasket has gone. An abnormaly high running temperature is an indicator too.

Edit: Running cold could be a faulty 'stat stuck open but it should get to temp eventually

>> Edited by cuzza on Thursday 18th September 11:39

ewojtek

4 posts

254 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Called lakeside lotus to book the elise in for a service and coolant problem check - excellent service over the phone - far better (and cheaper) than Bell & Colvill have ever been in booking me in quickly. Thanks for the advise.

abz 7001

383 posts

259 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
I thought HGF in the S2 was virtually unheard of since they upgraded the dowel/pin things that were the weakness causing the problem (showing my technical side now)?

Or is that just wishful thinking - mine is an April 2002 version if that makes any difference?

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
abz 7001 said:
I thought HGF in the S2 was virtually unheard of since they upgraded the dowel/pin things that were the weakness causing the problem (showing my technical side now)?

Or is that just wishful thinking - mine is an April 2002 version if that makes any difference?


Very techy! You could be right there as you don't hear of so many S2s suffering HGF but there are less of them.

I thought it was the heat cycling caused by the thermostat opening and closing and chucking a load of cold coolant into the block. Does this because of the loooong hose to the rad.

But I read that on here a while ago

abz 7001

383 posts

259 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Gonna get shot down by someone who knows but anyway.....

I thought it was the combination of the heat cycling (nice phrase) and the weak pins holding it all together that failed under the stresses caused by the cycling. Then when they upgraded the material it became more resistant to this cycling. Cant get away from the rad in front engine in back situation in the elise so need other thermostats and fans to sort it.

Ok thats my technical (if you can call it that)contribution expended

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Sounds more than plausable to me.

So can the pins be replaced when the head gasket is done too? We are talking about the long bolts that hold the head on the block aren't we? :exceedsboundariesofknowledge:

abz 7001

383 posts

259 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
I imagine yes? Oh who am i kidding, no idea!

:Sticksballsontheblock:

However from what I have read here and on Seloc the fact that they made this upgrade suggests the answer to your question is yes!

This is really gonna hurt when someone who knows what they are talking about turns up!

P.S this all relates to the S1 as I imagine they stuck with the improved set up for the S2?
:willbewearingmyballsasearringssoon:

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
No response yet......looks like we blagged it

Bonce

4,339 posts

286 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
What *are* you two on about?

Actually I have to say what you've said matches my understanding of the causes of HGF... but I'm no Dave Andrews.

cuzza

2,042 posts

260 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Bonce said:

Actually I have to say what you've said matches my understanding of the causes of HGF...


Alright!!!

Bonce

4,339 posts

286 months

Thursday 18th September 2003
quotequote all
Except... it's not the "pins" that hold it all together that are the problem. The bolts that hold all the different layers of engine together, sandwiching the head gasket are designed to stretch hence their name "stretch bolts". The pins I think you are referring to are the dowels that hold the head gasket in position. They were originally made of plastic, which is pretty crap in a high temperature high stress environment, so they'd give way, the gasket would move and the leak in the proverbial dyke would start.

That's *my* understanding of it, of course usual disclaimers apply - I'm just a bloke down the pub.

>> Edited by Bonce on Thursday 18th September 15:48