Pagid RS 4-2 vs RS 14
Discussion
Anyone on here use the Pagid RS 4-2 pads? I'm looking to replace my OE ones on my S2 111s but still have the skinny 040 tyres on. I'm concerned that if I put RS14s on I'll have lockup problems and also I'm worried they don't work too well when wet and cold. I've heard the RS4-2 is a good allround pad. My car does not get any track time so only road use.
I'm using pagid 4-2 with no problems at all. Apart from being occasionally squeeky they're probably better pads than were fitted by Lotus.
I've done one track day with them and they were *brilliant*. The rest of the time has been road use and they're absolutely fine wet or dry, hot or cold.
I've done one track day with them and they were *brilliant*. The rest of the time has been road use and they're absolutely fine wet or dry, hot or cold.
I'm no expert, but I had a look at www.race-speed.com and Castrol SRF is the only fluid listed in the Lotus section, so that sounds like a thumbs-up.
> Edit: I have no idea what fluid I've got in my brakes, I paid a man to sort that stuff out for me!
>> Edited by Bonce (moderator) on Tuesday 17th June 10:42
> Edit: I have no idea what fluid I've got in my brakes, I paid a man to sort that stuff out for me!
>> Edited by Bonce (moderator) on Tuesday 17th June 10:42
Castrol SFR is totally OTT (requires more regular changing, bl**dy costly), your spongyness problems are contaminated fluid, replace it (or get someone who knows how to) with some Castrol Super DOT 4 (halfords - Lotus OEM spec) and bung some RS4-2's on, this is the combo I run and have done 10+ trackdays without a fluid change or any noticable pedal travel problem.
There is so much BS talked about spongy brake pedals it drives me rond the bend. If you have excessive pedal travel then you have something other than brake fluid in the system, and it's getting hot, could be air, could be water/some other contaminant, but it's changing volume with heat, which brake fluid does very much less.
On an elise a good DOT4 (Castrol super DOT 4 for example is better than many DOT 5.1 fluids) is more than adequate, and will not result in fade problems on track for 99% of drivers.
Don't waste your money on SRF
Fd
There is so much BS talked about spongy brake pedals it drives me rond the bend. If you have excessive pedal travel then you have something other than brake fluid in the system, and it's getting hot, could be air, could be water/some other contaminant, but it's changing volume with heat, which brake fluid does very much less.
On an elise a good DOT4 (Castrol super DOT 4 for example is better than many DOT 5.1 fluids) is more than adequate, and will not result in fade problems on track for 99% of drivers.
Don't waste your money on SRF
Fd
Couldn't agree more.
I just put braided hoses (job from hell at the front on a 340R), 4-2's and gallons of Dot4 (76 Racing as it was handy) - transformed feel and pressure and once warmed, much better stopping. If you're doing road work mainly, you don't need 14's(or 15/19's).
Word of warning if doing yourself - the brakes are split diagonally, so don't bleed an axle at a time...oh the fun we had.
I just put braided hoses (job from hell at the front on a 340R), 4-2's and gallons of Dot4 (76 Racing as it was handy) - transformed feel and pressure and once warmed, much better stopping. If you're doing road work mainly, you don't need 14's(or 15/19's).
Word of warning if doing yourself - the brakes are split diagonally, so don't bleed an axle at a time...oh the fun we had.
Perhaps the 340R is different (dunno), but the S1 is front/rear split, not diag . . .
however . . . they can be a swine to bleed for all sorts of reasons . . . air in the front and rear calipers can be difficult to remove, I'd recommend a pressure bleeder, and an assistant, I'd also recommend making absolutely sure you do it correctly beccause this is one of the single most common 'problems' people have on their cars . . . yet it's oh so easy to do correctly . . .
Fd
however . . . they can be a swine to bleed for all sorts of reasons . . . air in the front and rear calipers can be difficult to remove, I'd recommend a pressure bleeder, and an assistant, I'd also recommend making absolutely sure you do it correctly beccause this is one of the single most common 'problems' people have on their cars . . . yet it's oh so easy to do correctly . . .
Fd
beast said:
Word of warning if doing yourself - the brakes are split diagonally, so don't bleed an axle at a time...oh the fun we had.
Sorry?
they are not split diagonally, that would be stupid/dangerouse/illegal.
The front brakes are both on the same chamber of the master cylinder, with seperate pies to it, the rears are both off the same pipe that splits at the fuel tank bulkhead.
if your going to blead the brakes, DO NOT drain the fluid out at any time, start with the front right, then front left, then rears, then the clutch.
Simon (S)
you're right - I confess - system has separate front & rear hydraulic circuits (though I still don't understand how having got the back circuit perfect before doing the fronts, they then filled with $hitload of air).
...remember to always ignore GT team mechanic guff in future !
I'm sure you'll find that diagonally split braking circuits are more the norm though these days - just do a google search.
...remember to always ignore GT team mechanic guff in future !
I'm sure you'll find that diagonally split braking circuits are more the norm though these days - just do a google search.
all, thanks for the advice, unfortunately the mechanic has already gone and bought the SRF so will use it for this time and let you know how it goes. now my main concern is making sure he does a good and thorough job, i think i might spend the 2 hours there watching to make sure he does it right....
Another handy item for bleeding brakes that makes it a one-man job is speedbleeder valves. Available at www.speedbleeder.com for about $26 U.S. for a set of four. These are especially useful if you bleed your brakes frequently for track events/autocross, etc.
The website does not mention Lotus specifically but requests that an inquiry be made for manufacturers not listed. I've read that the newer S2's have bleed valves that can be accessed without removing the wheels, which will make the process even easier. Looking forward to seeing them here on this side of the pond.
The website does not mention Lotus specifically but requests that an inquiry be made for manufacturers not listed. I've read that the newer S2's have bleed valves that can be accessed without removing the wheels, which will make the process even easier. Looking forward to seeing them here on this side of the pond.
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