Aftermarket stereo and sub install
Discussion
Hi all,
Looking to install a subwoofer of some sort into my Elise S2 as getting tired of zero bass/tinny tunes. Well aware that these cars are not the best for this kind of thing, but wondered if anyone's got an S2 (or even an S1) with a sub installed relatively local to northwest/Cheshire area that I could have a listen to? Would be great if anyone's managed to make it work.
Cheers,
David.
Looking to install a subwoofer of some sort into my Elise S2 as getting tired of zero bass/tinny tunes. Well aware that these cars are not the best for this kind of thing, but wondered if anyone's got an S2 (or even an S1) with a sub installed relatively local to northwest/Cheshire area that I could have a listen to? Would be great if anyone's managed to make it work.
Cheers,
David.
Hi David,
I'm in Cheshire with an Exige 410. I've swapped my front speakers for a set of Focal PC100's and am planning to swap the rears for a couple of Focal PC130's (it's a seats out job that's going to wait for my Schroth harnesses, when they finally get round to manufacturing them - 10-12 week delay, I'm told!). The improvement with just the new front speakers is noticeable, but the setup is still very much in need of bass. It'll be interesting to see how much improvement the PC130's make when they replace the rears.
All that said, I'm looking into the addition of a sub, too. There's a couple of Focal models and a Kenwood that will fit into the passenger footwell. There's also a circular InPhase model that I believe will, too. As far as I understand it, you could grab power from the head unit, but that's considered a bit risky as the cables aren't of a thinkness especially appropriate for powering a sub as well as the HU, so the proper approach, apparently, is to take power directly from the battery. I'm not sure if that involves going through a fuse in the fusebox, or just cables straight to the battery posts.
Either way, that seems like too big a job for me, so I'm going to speak to some installers about it. I'll probably pick my own sub and then ask them to do the wiring. I'll try to remember to come back here and update when that's been done.
I'm in Cheshire with an Exige 410. I've swapped my front speakers for a set of Focal PC100's and am planning to swap the rears for a couple of Focal PC130's (it's a seats out job that's going to wait for my Schroth harnesses, when they finally get round to manufacturing them - 10-12 week delay, I'm told!). The improvement with just the new front speakers is noticeable, but the setup is still very much in need of bass. It'll be interesting to see how much improvement the PC130's make when they replace the rears.
All that said, I'm looking into the addition of a sub, too. There's a couple of Focal models and a Kenwood that will fit into the passenger footwell. There's also a circular InPhase model that I believe will, too. As far as I understand it, you could grab power from the head unit, but that's considered a bit risky as the cables aren't of a thinkness especially appropriate for powering a sub as well as the HU, so the proper approach, apparently, is to take power directly from the battery. I'm not sure if that involves going through a fuse in the fusebox, or just cables straight to the battery posts.
Either way, that seems like too big a job for me, so I'm going to speak to some installers about it. I'll probably pick my own sub and then ask them to do the wiring. I'll try to remember to come back here and update when that's been done.
Ah nice. The Exige 410 sounds like an absolute beast! I think that was much my way of thought with adding say one of the focal ibus 25 powered subwoofers where the size/install seems rather minimal, or a Kenwood under the seat (in the footwell) type jobby. I went with a bog standard focal access front and back component setup and noticed a significant improvement already just from the upgraded pioneer headunit I installed. Headunit seems to power them sufficiently but lacks a lot in the low end.
The 100% nutter approach would be sticking something like a JL 8w7 and one of their smaller D class amps somewhere in the footwell, but 1) it's dead heavy at 7.8kg for the sub alone (possibly another 7kg+ for a suitable MDF based box) so Colin Chapman would be rolling in his grave and 2) would probably shake my car to bits given lack of any proper sound deadening in an S2. Also I think I prefer the idea of something plug and play to help reduce weight when required, albeit some wiring left in the car. Saying that, I've had the experience of 2 x JL 10w7s in a small Corsa in my much younger days, and to recreate a little of that bass with a much nicer/faster motor seems a dream come true.
Either way, keen to see the outcome of the install when you get yours sorted so just give me a shout when the time comes. Also keen to see the motor in general as it's certainly a bit of a step up from my Honda S2.
The 100% nutter approach would be sticking something like a JL 8w7 and one of their smaller D class amps somewhere in the footwell, but 1) it's dead heavy at 7.8kg for the sub alone (possibly another 7kg+ for a suitable MDF based box) so Colin Chapman would be rolling in his grave and 2) would probably shake my car to bits given lack of any proper sound deadening in an S2. Also I think I prefer the idea of something plug and play to help reduce weight when required, albeit some wiring left in the car. Saying that, I've had the experience of 2 x JL 10w7s in a small Corsa in my much younger days, and to recreate a little of that bass with a much nicer/faster motor seems a dream come true.
Either way, keen to see the outcome of the install when you get yours sorted so just give me a shout when the time comes. Also keen to see the motor in general as it's certainly a bit of a step up from my Honda S2.
Hi OP,
This is my sub (S3 Exige, but should also fit / work for you) inspired by Paul's Exige thread :-
It's a Pioneer TS-WX010A. I was able to use the supplied brackets but redrilled so I could bolt to the little chassis metal flap in the footwell.
It works really well in conjunction with the Focals (PC100s in the front and Flax Evo 165s in the rear).
This is my sub (S3 Exige, but should also fit / work for you) inspired by Paul's Exige thread :-
It's a Pioneer TS-WX010A. I was able to use the supplied brackets but redrilled so I could bolt to the little chassis metal flap in the footwell.
It works really well in conjunction with the Focals (PC100s in the front and Flax Evo 165s in the rear).
Think my mind's been made up. Was having a measure up of the footwell and looking at comparable subs - this seems by far the best on footprint/shape and much lighter than say an ibus2.1 from focal at 4.5kg.
Gonna order one today and see if I've got the cohones to attempt the install by myself
Gonna order one today and see if I've got the cohones to attempt the install by myself
Having a crack at installing (pioneer wx010a sub) myself but ran into a couple of issues...
1) Connecting the power - is the usual route to tap into the existing fusebox using an 'add a circuit' type connector? Wondered if there's a neater way to do this as the fusebox lid will no longer fit on top if adding such a connector.
2) For RCAs, is the usual route to just buy a dual RCA cable and thread it through the grommets/plug into headunit or is it preferable to chop the ends off and resolder terminals to keep things neat? Do you even need 2 RCAs or would a single cable suffice (left and right RCA outs from my headunit, but no dedicated subwoofer port).
Any help much appreciated.
1) Connecting the power - is the usual route to tap into the existing fusebox using an 'add a circuit' type connector? Wondered if there's a neater way to do this as the fusebox lid will no longer fit on top if adding such a connector.
2) For RCAs, is the usual route to just buy a dual RCA cable and thread it through the grommets/plug into headunit or is it preferable to chop the ends off and resolder terminals to keep things neat? Do you even need 2 RCAs or would a single cable suffice (left and right RCA outs from my headunit, but no dedicated subwoofer port).
Any help much appreciated.
In the Exige I took power and earth from the stereo wiring (peeled back the outer plastic and soldered). Includes the inline fuse on the sub + cable.
On the RCA front, I bought a joined pair from Amazon and they plugged directly into the sub and my new Pioneer head unit. I threaded these through the dash channel by removing the little dash panel on the passenger side that includes the build plaque. Paul's Exige thread has a pic and shows where the two screws are. Not sure if exactly the same on you Elise.
I've read other info where people have taken power/earth from the charge posts upfront by routing through to them, but that seemed a little more involved (though that may not actually be the case).
On the RCA front, I bought a joined pair from Amazon and they plugged directly into the sub and my new Pioneer head unit. I threaded these through the dash channel by removing the little dash panel on the passenger side that includes the build plaque. Paul's Exige thread has a pic and shows where the two screws are. Not sure if exactly the same on you Elise.
I've read other info where people have taken power/earth from the charge posts upfront by routing through to them, but that seemed a little more involved (though that may not actually be the case).
Cheers Gary. In hindsight, perhaps I shouldn't have cut the inline fuse off and threaded through to the front fusebox
I have a feeling the S2 Elise's are a bit more faff than the new exiges Doesn't seem to be any easy access to any of the cables behind the headunit other than poking holes through grommets and threading through.
Also not very clear where to attach the earthing cable. Hoping it's something I can sort just with the access panels removed. Crimped a fork terminal on it but not a scooby what to connect to!
I have a feeling the S2 Elise's are a bit more faff than the new exiges Doesn't seem to be any easy access to any of the cables behind the headunit other than poking holes through grommets and threading through.
Also not very clear where to attach the earthing cable. Hoping it's something I can sort just with the access panels removed. Crimped a fork terminal on it but not a scooby what to connect to!
|https://thumbsnap.com/kqaTaCVw[/url]If you pull the head unit out, is there no cable access? The RCA cables are going to have to connect through somehow. If you can get them through then maybe you can get at power and earth cable? You could reattach the inline fuse too if not going for a tap from the fuse box. The blue cable from the sub also needs to go to a switched power source so that it tells the sub to come on (its a signal cable). My new Pioneer has an output cable for this very purpose, so I was able to connect it to that.
I'm certain there are Elise owners that will be able to advise on exactly how they have done this
I'm certain there are Elise owners that will be able to advise on exactly how they have done this
Cheers Gary.
In the end, managed to find a screw attached to summat underneath the shelf, which screwed into the aluminium. Figured the whole chassis/interior is one big earthing point anyways.
Poked a hole through a rubber grommet and used a kids drinking straw taped to a test rca cable and remote lead to fish em through to headunit.
Still gotta wait for the proper 2 channel rcas to come through post. Shorter cable so less messy.
Had a blast round Wales earlier this morning and scared the sheeps. Subs bloody brilliant for its size. More of a solid midbass kick at speed, but goes plenty deep when stuck in slower traffic.
In the end, managed to find a screw attached to summat underneath the shelf, which screwed into the aluminium. Figured the whole chassis/interior is one big earthing point anyways.
Poked a hole through a rubber grommet and used a kids drinking straw taped to a test rca cable and remote lead to fish em through to headunit.
Still gotta wait for the proper 2 channel rcas to come through post. Shorter cable so less messy.
Had a blast round Wales earlier this morning and scared the sheeps. Subs bloody brilliant for its size. More of a solid midbass kick at speed, but goes plenty deep when stuck in slower traffic.
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