Exige 410 non-rusting engine bolts?

[ScreamerUK]

Hi all, I've been doing a bit of work on the engine bay of my Exige 410. Seeing as the carbon cover on the back of the 410 has holes in it, the engine bay of my 1 year old example has weathered slightly. The engine block was covered in the usual white oxidisation spots, which I've removed with some Alubright. It's done a great job.

Next up are the bolts for the engine head - they're all rusted. I've been trying some rust remover, but without much luck - possibly because I'm using water to clean them afterwards, which is presumably introducing new rust! On that note, does anyone happen to know the types of bolts used and the torque specs? I'm thinking the best bet might be to source new ones that won't rust, or that can be coated with some sort of sealant before installation. There's a few around the perimeter of the head and two of a different kind either side of the Lotus lettering.

Thanks!

[ecain63]

When you wash the car are you using fallout remover at all?

[ScreamerUK]

Hi there, thanks for the reply!

Funnily enough, I have used some Autoglym Magma previously. I'm pretty certain (but not absolutely 100% now I'm typing it) that the rusting was already present, but I assume your reason for asking is because it will have made it worse..?

As mentioned, if I can find the right spec of bolts, it seems the easiest thing to do will be to replace them with new ones that I can put a coating on before installation. Or if not, perhaps removing them to better treat them with rust remover might also be an option.

Would I be right in thinking that slowly upping the torque on a wrench until they come loose is an accurate way of determining the torque to which they should be set when fitting again?

[Shelsleyf2]

When you have it all clean and shiny, try Dinitrol 4010 as a corrosion inhibiter . It is used to protect alloy blocks etc and is reasonably high temp. I have used it on both bare alloy and painted engines.

[ScreamerUK]

Excellent, thanks! There's a product made by the same people who do AluBright that I've already got (but not yet used) - I forget the name - but your suggestion looks like it might be a bit more serious. Well worth a coating on the bolts if I can clean them up or replace them.

[ecain63]

Yeah, I used a recommended fallout remover last year and it was a huge mistake. Luckily I only used it on the wheels / in the arches, but it really doesn't like our cars. The wheels came up lovely but I had to spend a week of evenings refurbishing the hubs and cleaning the corrosion / oxidation off the wishbones and uprights. If it'd gone on the engine at all I'd have experienced similar for sure. I never used it again!

[BertBert]

ScreamerUK said:

.

Would I be right in thinking that slowly upping the torque on a wrench until they come loose is an accurate way of determining the torque to which they should be set when fitting again?

Absolutely and utterly not.

[RobXjcoupe]

Rusty head bolts, try jenolite or a phosphoric acid to blacken them again. It won’t last due to the engine heat cycles but you can keep on top of it. Possibly oily rag the bolt heads after the treatment. It’s good practice to do that on any bolt really especially if threads are exposed