Front upper wishbones - how tight?
Discussion
Hi,
I've removed wishbones and dampers from an early '98 Elise and am attempting to fit new front upper wishbones. I took pictures (see below) of the shims that were in place, but given the amount of rust on them it's difficult to say what thicknesses they were. I've put the new upper wishbone in place and squeezed as many new shims as I can (3mm behind the front arm, 1mm in front), along with the snubber washer, and get a fraction of free play; the wishbone doesn't move left to right, but there's perhaps 1mm play where I can pull one side of the arm and push the other. When bolted up, the wishbone moves very easily up and down, where the rears were very clearly a much tighter fit (no shims on the rears) and the rubber bushes resisted easy movement up and down.
Do I need to spend more time wedging another shim in place to make the front uppers a really tight fit, or should there be a little play? I'm not convinced I can get any more shims in, but haven't resorted to violence yet
Thanks for any input,
David
I've removed wishbones and dampers from an early '98 Elise and am attempting to fit new front upper wishbones. I took pictures (see below) of the shims that were in place, but given the amount of rust on them it's difficult to say what thicknesses they were. I've put the new upper wishbone in place and squeezed as many new shims as I can (3mm behind the front arm, 1mm in front), along with the snubber washer, and get a fraction of free play; the wishbone doesn't move left to right, but there's perhaps 1mm play where I can pull one side of the arm and push the other. When bolted up, the wishbone moves very easily up and down, where the rears were very clearly a much tighter fit (no shims on the rears) and the rubber bushes resisted easy movement up and down.
Do I need to spend more time wedging another shim in place to make the front uppers a really tight fit, or should there be a little play? I'm not convinced I can get any more shims in, but haven't resorted to violence yet
Thanks for any input,
David
Yup, understood, thanks - I've fitted new shims and understand about castor adjustment and the need for an alignment check, I'm just unsure how hard I need to try in order to wedge more shims in there. I have a selection of 1mm and 2mm shims and I can't add another 1mm with my bare hands. But that gives me the tiniest diagonal movement. Is that OK, or do I need to find a way of squeezing that extra 1mm in there to take out all slack?
Thanks for the reply!
Thanks for the reply!
I would be inclined to ‘tap-in’ another shim if that’s the type of force needed.
Sorry to throw-in another variable but have you changed the bushes? The OE or similar rubber ones tend to be better dimensioned than some of the eg: poly replacements.
Also, only tighten the bolts with the wishbones in the running position to avoid building-in a preload.
Sorry to throw-in another variable but have you changed the bushes? The OE or similar rubber ones tend to be better dimensioned than some of the eg: poly replacements.
Also, only tighten the bolts with the wishbones in the running position to avoid building-in a preload.
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