Help with ECU swap on Elise S1
Discussion
Hi there,
Hello from France ! (and please apologize in advance for some incorrect spellings in this post)
I am new here and seeking for help... I have an Elise S1, Rover K engine 120hp (non VVC) 2001 and I want to swap the factory fitted ECU with an second hand one.
Here is the painting :
My S1 has the factory fitted Cobra volumetric alarm and immobiliser + 5AS module. My factory ECU model is Rover MKC104112. I have the immobiliser bypass from https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/engine-br-gearbox/... fitted on the car.
Immobiliser bypass works well (I mean I do not need to mobilize the engine with the button prior to start the engine : I just turn the key and the engine starts).
Now I want to swap the original ECU with a second hand one (Rover MKC104111 I found and I read it was "compatible" with my original MKC104112).
I have plugged the engine harness and the MAP sensor vacuum tube into the aftermarket ECU and tried to start the engine. The engine started for a couple of seconds then stopped... tried again... same thing. Always same again...
I suspect that the second hand ECU cuts the fuel pump because it has to match the factory fitted 5AS module (despite the immobiliser bypass still plugged).
Am I right ?? Can someone tell me how to get out that and have my engine start ? Can the aftermarket ECU be somewhat unlocked ?
I am stuck with that. Any help greatly appreciated !
Thank you.
Hello from France ! (and please apologize in advance for some incorrect spellings in this post)
I am new here and seeking for help... I have an Elise S1, Rover K engine 120hp (non VVC) 2001 and I want to swap the factory fitted ECU with an second hand one.
Here is the painting :
My S1 has the factory fitted Cobra volumetric alarm and immobiliser + 5AS module. My factory ECU model is Rover MKC104112. I have the immobiliser bypass from https://www.eliseparts.com/shop/engine-br-gearbox/... fitted on the car.
Immobiliser bypass works well (I mean I do not need to mobilize the engine with the button prior to start the engine : I just turn the key and the engine starts).
Now I want to swap the original ECU with a second hand one (Rover MKC104111 I found and I read it was "compatible" with my original MKC104112).
I have plugged the engine harness and the MAP sensor vacuum tube into the aftermarket ECU and tried to start the engine. The engine started for a couple of seconds then stopped... tried again... same thing. Always same again...
I suspect that the second hand ECU cuts the fuel pump because it has to match the factory fitted 5AS module (despite the immobiliser bypass still plugged).
Am I right ?? Can someone tell me how to get out that and have my engine start ? Can the aftermarket ECU be somewhat unlocked ?
I am stuck with that. Any help greatly appreciated !
Thank you.
You can indeed get a Rover MEMS ECU unlocked. I did this when my S1 ECU coil driver died and it was cheaper to put in a 2nd hand ECU than mess about repairing an old one.
You need an EEPROM programmer, a 8 pin DIL socket clamp and a small data file to program into the immobiliser EEPROM chip.
The worst bit of the job is to get into the ECU casing.
You need an EEPROM programmer, a 8 pin DIL socket clamp and a small data file to program into the immobiliser EEPROM chip.
The worst bit of the job is to get into the ECU casing.
I had my Caterham k series ecu remapped and de-immobilised by https://www.kmaps.co.uk/services, Mark was involved in developing the unit originally for Rover, might be worth dropping him an e mail.
The Elise has a complete loom install from a MGTF. Including the parts not needed for the lotus. This includes the small box that usually runs the MG alarm / immobilizer with light flasher, central locking etc. and is now left dormant.
This box is coded to the ECU, known as mems matched. Either change them as a pair or have the ECU recoded to match.
You'll find this small unit if you remove the dash binicle, it's mounted behind bolted to the dash.
Hope that helps.
This box is coded to the ECU, known as mems matched. Either change them as a pair or have the ECU recoded to match.
You'll find this small unit if you remove the dash binicle, it's mounted behind bolted to the dash.
Hope that helps.
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