Questions, for the DIY mechanic?
Questions, for the DIY mechanic?
Author
Discussion

blacknight

Original Poster:

7 posts

264 months

Friday 29th April 2005
quotequote all
Currently my series one elise, has a couple of possibly minor issues, and I would be interested in any advice/ feedback anyone can give.

Is front wheel bearing fitting possible to achieve myself? I have the ful workshop manual, and was a little concerned about heating bits in the oven?

After a flat battery, would it be prudent to reset the ECU? Currently running like a pig, and not ticking over correctly!

How do I test the radiator cooling fan to ensure it is functional, car has not really been out since before christmas.

Any help appreciated

Cheers

Iain

gooby

9,269 posts

264 months

Friday 29th April 2005
quotequote all
The radiator fan is really a functional test. Get the car hot and see if the fan comes on. while it is warming up check levels and keep an eye out for leaks.

Changing the battery should reset the ecu anyway.

I have not changed a wheel bearing on a liz. From experience on other cars, if you are in 2 minds then get someone else to do it. It is quite a commited job

steff

1,421 posts

293 months

Friday 29th April 2005
quotequote all
You need a press for the wheel bearings as well.

340ragtop

919 posts

275 months

Saturday 30th April 2005
quotequote all
don't do the bearings unless you've done them before and have a decent bench press.

cheers

alunr

1,676 posts

294 months

Monday 2nd May 2005
quotequote all
If the car is lumpy after a flat battery the battery may now be fubar'd which would give you a lumpy idle.

Martin_s

9,939 posts

275 months

Monday 2nd May 2005
quotequote all
The fans are prone to seizing, due to their horizontal position and the fact that rainwater can run down through the rad onto them.

You can test by removing the relevant relay from the relay block under the bonnet (over the nearside front wheel) and bridging the two 'high current' terminals on the socket. The fan should come on instantly, and spin down slowly and smoothly when the current is removed.

This at least proves the fan itself is working; if it fails to come on when the engine temperature rises, the fault probably lies with the sensor on the engine, of the wiring connections in the engine bay.