Cheap S1 with wheels issue - need your opinion!
Discussion
Hi everyone,
i’m still on the chase for a reasonably priced Elise S1 and went too see one today. The car is kind of a high miler (66k) and interior is a little worn… But that’s not my worry, what in fact worries me is the state of wheel (see attached pictures): many scuffs and attached weighs. Any comments on that? Do you think it can be sign of some crash? Do you think the wheels can get an overhaul or do they need to be replaced? Suspension seems ok in any case! I got to drive it and it doesn’t behave strangely.
Of less importance, the grey backdrop on the glass of the Stack instrument cluster is showing many cracks. Not the glass itself, just the colour! Can it be sorted out someway?
Please I need some urgent opinion as this car is getting attention from many potential buyers!
Thanks.
i’m still on the chase for a reasonably priced Elise S1 and went too see one today. The car is kind of a high miler (66k) and interior is a little worn… But that’s not my worry, what in fact worries me is the state of wheel (see attached pictures): many scuffs and attached weighs. Any comments on that? Do you think it can be sign of some crash? Do you think the wheels can get an overhaul or do they need to be replaced? Suspension seems ok in any case! I got to drive it and it doesn’t behave strangely.
Of less importance, the grey backdrop on the glass of the Stack instrument cluster is showing many cracks. Not the glass itself, just the colour! Can it be sorted out someway?
Please I need some urgent opinion as this car is getting attention from many potential buyers!
Thanks.
I am a bit of a tyre snob, but judging by the brand of tyres fitted to that car I would be wary. Budget tyres fitted to a Lotus just isn't right in and would make me wonder where else costs have been cut in the running and maintenance of the vehicle. The fact that the alloy wheels are also scuffed just adds to the argument that it is likely that it hasn't been well cared for.
danny tattersall said:
I am a bit of a tyre snob, but judging by the brand of tyres fitted to that car I would be wary. Budget tyres fitted to a Lotus just isn't right in and would make me wonder where else costs have been cut in the running and maintenance of the vehicle. The fact that the alloy wheels are also scuffed just adds to the argument that it is likely that it hasn't been well cared for.
Plus one. Cheap tyres on a performance car is a no from me too. 66K miles on an S1 cant be considered as a high miler. Check service history. If its been done regularly and by any of the specialists. Watch out for seller cutting corners on maintenance. Cheap tyres are a sign of of cost cutting in important areas.
How long has the seller had the car. Price condition. Only you can tell. Otherwise post a link.
How long has the seller had the car. Price condition. Only you can tell. Otherwise post a link.
Thanks everyone for your replies. I'm not too worried by the tires, they can be easily changed with more higher quality ones. I'd just like to know your opinions on the alloys, particularly if damage may affect the ride quality and if they can get some aesthetic overhaul.
About cutting corners on service history... yes the seller cut corners by not relying on official repairers but he's a retired mechanic and he completely overhauled the engine, he showed me some pics of the work that has been done. In any case the car has passed all MOTs, last one just 2 months ago.
About cutting corners on service history... yes the seller cut corners by not relying on official repairers but he's a retired mechanic and he completely overhauled the engine, he showed me some pics of the work that has been done. In any case the car has passed all MOTs, last one just 2 months ago.
I think you're kind of missing the point. The wheels could be buckled or ok with this kerb rash but they are easily refurbished or replaced, there are bigger things that you need to check. Getting though an MOT is fairly easy. If the car is not dangerous or polluting, its fine. It doesn't mean it's a well cared for example that won't cost you lots of cash soon. Putting crap tyres on a car like this could be sign that it hasn't had any other stuff done to save money. If you are not planning to do work yourself these jobs can add up quickly.
Most importantly you need to know that the chassis is straight and undamaged. I presume you are in the UK and with the salt that gets used in winter I would be concerned about corrosion. Has it spent its life outside on the side of the road. Cars like this tend to live in garages in other parts of the world will on average be in much better condition.
Other Questions but not an exclusive list-
Brakes- How much life is left in the pads but particularly the discs.
Suspension- Has it had a refresh, shocks, bushes, ball joints, drop and toe links. If not they may need doing sometime soon, the car is nearly 20 years old.
Engine- Has it had regular oil changes with decent oil and is it just about to have a head gasket failure.
If you don't know how to look for any of this stuff you might need some help with this purchase if you don't want to take a big gamble.
Most importantly you need to know that the chassis is straight and undamaged. I presume you are in the UK and with the salt that gets used in winter I would be concerned about corrosion. Has it spent its life outside on the side of the road. Cars like this tend to live in garages in other parts of the world will on average be in much better condition.
Other Questions but not an exclusive list-
Brakes- How much life is left in the pads but particularly the discs.
Suspension- Has it had a refresh, shocks, bushes, ball joints, drop and toe links. If not they may need doing sometime soon, the car is nearly 20 years old.
Engine- Has it had regular oil changes with decent oil and is it just about to have a head gasket failure.
If you don't know how to look for any of this stuff you might need some help with this purchase if you don't want to take a big gamble.
Altrezia said:
I agree with the other posters about tyre quality. Probably means cheap or zero servicing.
Not necessarily imo. I'm happy to use cheap tyres on my cars despite them wanting for nothing, FLSH, conditioned garage under indoor cover etc etc.Cheaper tyres only usually give you less grip, no big deal. You can run the most expensive tyre in the world it will still have less grip in the wet for example, the car doesn't suddenly become a death trap lol. Drive to the grip you've got, if you like driving with lower grip that's fine - don't see the problem.
Just my 2p.
Dunc.
The wheels wouldn't bother me. They can be easily refurbished and given you're looking at a very early s1 then the car is what 18 years old.
I would imagine it's going to need a full suspension refresh. It'll probably be on Koni's still which are long past it. The tyres don't inspire confidence but like you said can be changed for better one's such as advan ad08.
The car has mmc's brakes and they are tough as old boots and it'll likely have next to no wear. Look at the aluminium uprights and check for cracks etc. Look at the suspension pick up points for the wishbones. They'd should be perfect. If not then walk away.
It'll probably have green glue being an early car. These for some reason seem to have more issues then orange glue with corrosion so yes pull the rubber over mats. If it's horrible under there then you'll have some work to do. That said you can buy repair panels as it was a lotus recall.. Chances are it'll look a right mess with lots of galvanic corrosion.
The radiator will probably be a plastic end caps version. You're on borrowed time there. Most people get an aluminium radiator and at the same time refurb the heater box.
Not much to say about the interior.. The s1 seats are quite uncomfortable but don't let it out you off as you can fit much better s2/s3 probax seats with harness holes.
Engine wise. He's rebuilt it which is good. It's worth asking if he installed a pressure relief thermostat set up and MLS head gasket. Good preventative measures for the future if you keep the k series.
Check the clam for cracks and spiders webs. Pretty much anything can be fixed but it all costs and you'll want to find a good body shop experienced with fibreglass. Especially with the bubbling that can occur. Check for that as well as effectively the clamshells weep water under the paint. It's just cosmetic really but isn't a cheap thing to fix.
Hope all that helped and good luck....
My opinion is that worst case a car with 66k miles (actually pretty low imo) is worth 8-9k assuming it needed some remedial work but was honest.
I would imagine it's going to need a full suspension refresh. It'll probably be on Koni's still which are long past it. The tyres don't inspire confidence but like you said can be changed for better one's such as advan ad08.
The car has mmc's brakes and they are tough as old boots and it'll likely have next to no wear. Look at the aluminium uprights and check for cracks etc. Look at the suspension pick up points for the wishbones. They'd should be perfect. If not then walk away.
It'll probably have green glue being an early car. These for some reason seem to have more issues then orange glue with corrosion so yes pull the rubber over mats. If it's horrible under there then you'll have some work to do. That said you can buy repair panels as it was a lotus recall.. Chances are it'll look a right mess with lots of galvanic corrosion.
The radiator will probably be a plastic end caps version. You're on borrowed time there. Most people get an aluminium radiator and at the same time refurb the heater box.
Not much to say about the interior.. The s1 seats are quite uncomfortable but don't let it out you off as you can fit much better s2/s3 probax seats with harness holes.
Engine wise. He's rebuilt it which is good. It's worth asking if he installed a pressure relief thermostat set up and MLS head gasket. Good preventative measures for the future if you keep the k series.
Check the clam for cracks and spiders webs. Pretty much anything can be fixed but it all costs and you'll want to find a good body shop experienced with fibreglass. Especially with the bubbling that can occur. Check for that as well as effectively the clamshells weep water under the paint. It's just cosmetic really but isn't a cheap thing to fix.
Hope all that helped and good luck....
My opinion is that worst case a car with 66k miles (actually pretty low imo) is worth 8-9k assuming it needed some remedial work but was honest.
So in the end I took the gamble and bought it! As a newbie I have many questions.
Today I went for a short ride, and the road was wet, but drying up.
I was about to lose the rear end of the car a couple of times, even at not-so-high speed. Are they all so unforgiving in the wet? Or am I too unexperienced (I've never driven a RWD before).
Today I went for a short ride, and the road was wet, but drying up.
I was about to lose the rear end of the car a couple of times, even at not-so-high speed. Are they all so unforgiving in the wet? Or am I too unexperienced (I've never driven a RWD before).
Edited by Fabio81 on Sunday 6th November 21:10
Fabio81 said:
So in the end I took the gamble and bought it! As a newbie I have many questions.
Today I went for a short ride, and the road was wet, but drying up.
I was about to lose the rear end of the car a couple of times, even at not-so-high speed. Are they all so unforgiving in the wet? Well the rear tires may as well get changed sooner or later.
Wet roads can be lethal if you're not careful with the throttle. Always find mine a little more tail happy in the cold weather too.Today I went for a short ride, and the road was wet, but drying up.
I was about to lose the rear end of the car a couple of times, even at not-so-high speed. Are they all so unforgiving in the wet? Well the rear tires may as well get changed sooner or later.
As mentioned earlier in the thread good tyres, and correct pressures, make a huge difference to how an Elise will feel, as will a good geo.
2nd the Geo - can make a huge difference. Am I right in thinking you're not in the UK?
I have the Phoenix Motorsport fast-road setup on mine and it's very well balanced. I've still had the back go on both road and track but it's been easy to catch which I understand is not true for the factory setup.
Also I find I need to be a lot more subtle with all my inputs on an Elise compared to an everyday fwd car. It always takes a while to get back in sync after I've been driving my Scirocco for a while.
I have the Phoenix Motorsport fast-road setup on mine and it's very well balanced. I've still had the back go on both road and track but it's been easy to catch which I understand is not true for the factory setup.
Also I find I need to be a lot more subtle with all my inputs on an Elise compared to an everyday fwd car. It always takes a while to get back in sync after I've been driving my Scirocco for a while.
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