Thinking of buying an Elise S1
Discussion
Hello, I don't know a lot about Lotus but always liked the S1 considering getting one.
Regarding servicing, what is the timing belts change interval and clutch life assuming normal road use?
Also, in my mind the car is mainly aluminium and fiberglass so which are the most rust sensitive parts?
Many thanks
George
Regarding servicing, what is the timing belts change interval and clutch life assuming normal road use?
Also, in my mind the car is mainly aluminium and fiberglass so which are the most rust sensitive parts?
Many thanks
George
Cam belt interval is 54k miles.
Mine was still on the original clutch at close to 100k miles, and I don't think this is too unusual.
Not too many parts to rust, the main potential ones being suspension wishbones, rear subframe, and front towing eye support post. There will also likely be a multitude of corroded nuts, bolts and screws around the car.
You also need to be aware of aluminium corrosion, particularly around the front suspension pickup points. This is most likely caused by electrolytic corrosion, possibly as a result of accident damage to either the protective coating or the steel inserts inside, or from road salt being allowed to linger and eat away at any imperfections the aluminium anodising.
Mine was still on the original clutch at close to 100k miles, and I don't think this is too unusual.
Not too many parts to rust, the main potential ones being suspension wishbones, rear subframe, and front towing eye support post. There will also likely be a multitude of corroded nuts, bolts and screws around the car.
You also need to be aware of aluminium corrosion, particularly around the front suspension pickup points. This is most likely caused by electrolytic corrosion, possibly as a result of accident damage to either the protective coating or the steel inserts inside, or from road salt being allowed to linger and eat away at any imperfections the aluminium anodising.
456GD said:
Thank you for the advice.
I've heard that the disk brakes are sensitive when exposed to the weather (say when not garaged). Is that right?
Also the cabin heating system gives up easily. Is it true / difficult to fix at all?
I keep my S1 outside all year. The discs do rust if it's left parked up for a week in the rain, but not any more rapidly than on any other car with cast iron discs, and they are clean again after a few hundred metres. I assume this is a total non-issue on aluminium disced S1s.I've heard that the disk brakes are sensitive when exposed to the weather (say when not garaged). Is that right?
Also the cabin heating system gives up easily. Is it true / difficult to fix at all?
My heater blows hot air after a couple of miles and it's a cosy place to be on long winter drives. Roof on, obviously. I've no idea if heating faults are common, but I spent a weekend a couple of years ago taking the front clam off for a new radiator and tow eye (both were 15 years old at the time) and the heater matrix seemed easy enough to change with the clam off. I didn't bother though, as mine is fine.
Not much to add over what's been said above other than I think it's the S2 that's more problematic for heating issues - crap location of the S2 resistor pack means it often gets wet and you lose fan speeds (eventually all of them) - but I don't think that afflicted the S1.
The only other thing to add with the brake discs is the pads can stick a little overnight if the discs were damp when you park (even if you garage the car), so with my S1 I got in the habit of leaving the handbrake off and leaving it in gear (as I parked it on a flat surface). Carbone Lorraine pads have got a reputation for having issues if they're exposed to a lot of damp (cars parked outside seemed more likely to suffer was the impression I got, but it hasn't affected everyone by any means), but I've not heard of issues with any others.
Paint blistering is the other thing to watch for - especially on the doors - more of an issue for outdoor parked cars (but it's a bit random as to who it afflicts).
The only other thing to add with the brake discs is the pads can stick a little overnight if the discs were damp when you park (even if you garage the car), so with my S1 I got in the habit of leaving the handbrake off and leaving it in gear (as I parked it on a flat surface). Carbone Lorraine pads have got a reputation for having issues if they're exposed to a lot of damp (cars parked outside seemed more likely to suffer was the impression I got, but it hasn't affected everyone by any means), but I've not heard of issues with any others.
Paint blistering is the other thing to watch for - especially on the doors - more of an issue for outdoor parked cars (but it's a bit random as to who it afflicts).
Mine has MMC disks and lives outside and I've never had an issue with them when wet, maybe that newer type brake pads have resolved this issue? Its also worth noting that the cambelt replacement is 4 year or 54k. Not a massive issue as its pretty cheap for a replacement with tensioners.
Also check for play in the steering rack (or as an advisory on the MOT) as these can be quite expensive to replace.
Also check for play in the steering rack (or as an advisory on the MOT) as these can be quite expensive to replace.
I think to be fair there are other issues I'd consider before those you ask about:
Are the toe links worn/old?
Front upper wishbone location point corrosion?
Head Gasket status; done already (if so by who, did it go, was the head peened...?), low miles and not expected yet, check for tell-tale signs its going (published plenty of other places).
Any play in the steering rack?
Any play in the ball joints?
Is it still on Koni dampers/what condition are the dampers in? Look for bilsteins or nitron/Quantum/newer Gaz
What tyres are on it? Are they the correct sizes 185/205 F/R or 195/225 F/R, do they match all round (a must IMHO)Yokohama ad08 or neova preferable, Toyos and some others acceptable, original equipment Pirelli Pzeros not acceptable.
S1's usually don't suffer radiator issues, but an all alloy one is a nice to have.
That's just off the top of my head, there are a multitude of other things to consider.
Are the toe links worn/old?
Front upper wishbone location point corrosion?
Head Gasket status; done already (if so by who, did it go, was the head peened...?), low miles and not expected yet, check for tell-tale signs its going (published plenty of other places).
Any play in the steering rack?
Any play in the ball joints?
Is it still on Koni dampers/what condition are the dampers in? Look for bilsteins or nitron/Quantum/newer Gaz
What tyres are on it? Are they the correct sizes 185/205 F/R or 195/225 F/R, do they match all round (a must IMHO)Yokohama ad08 or neova preferable, Toyos and some others acceptable, original equipment Pirelli Pzeros not acceptable.
S1's usually don't suffer radiator issues, but an all alloy one is a nice to have.
That's just off the top of my head, there are a multitude of other things to consider.
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