Better brakes for Exige
Discussion
What are the options for better brakes on an 06 ExigeS? Car is only for track days, but I'm having major issues after only a few laps.
Brakes are currently standard except for some Pagid RS4.2 pads.
I realise there are AP kits etc out there, but from what I've read it seems that these might be overkill for a track day car? But there are a ton of disc/pad options out there, so any advice is appreciated.
Brakes are currently standard except for some Pagid RS4.2 pads.
I realise there are AP kits etc out there, but from what I've read it seems that these might be overkill for a track day car? But there are a ton of disc/pad options out there, so any advice is appreciated.
Scuffers said:
buy decent disks and pads, job done.
something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
Hi Simon,something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
can you explain to me why in a car that reportedly has to much front brake bias the recommendation is to push it even further forward? I just put the DBA 5000's in standard sizes on mine, with 4-2 pads. (Mainly because local sourcing was easier.)
Has there ever been a rear brake solution which retains the handbrake but improves this situation while retaining the ABS?
Forgive me if I'm spouting rubbish.
drac said:
Scuffers said:
buy decent disks and pads, job done.
something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
Hi Simon,something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
can you explain to me why in a car that reportedly has to much front brake bias the recommendation is to push it even further forward? I just put the DBA 5000's in standard sizes on mine, with 4-2 pads. (Mainly because local sourcing was easier.)
Has there ever been a rear brake solution which retains the handbrake but improves this situation while retaining the ABS?
Forgive me if I'm spouting rubbish.
yes the front is somewhat over-biased, but for a road car that's no bad thing.
Yes, on track it would be nice to move the bias back a bit, but this involves spending a lot of time and money on calipers etc, which for a road car is questionable.
if your picking up on me saying 290 rears and 304 fronts, that's not a balance changer per say as the biggest easy off the shelf disks you can swap to with the std calipers.
woteva said:
Thanks all. So it seems I've got the right pads, just need new discs.
Are braided lines worth it also? Any recommendations also on fluid? I'm only running the standard stuff atm.
yes, decent braided hoses don't make the brakes work any better, but massive improve pedal travel and feel - just get decent plastic coated ones, they don;t rub and degrade like open braid does.Are braided lines worth it also? Any recommendations also on fluid? I'm only running the standard stuff atm.
Fluid wise, realistically, any decent Dot 4 is fine, just change it reasonably often (like 2-3 times a year if your on track). You can spend big money on SRF etc, but unless your really racing and pushing fluid temps, it's not worth it as it's life is no better than anything else (and in some cases significantly worse) to your better to use cheaper fluid and change it more.
My own view is every time you change pads, don't push the fluid in the caliper back, dump it out the bleeds and replenish the reservoir wit new, it;s the fluid that's in the calipers that degrades with heat fastest.
Ok, thanks again.
Is it advisable to do the rears, simply to balance out the effect of doing the fronts? Or do the rears suffer from fade as well?
Also, am I to assume that even though the disc is bigger, the standard pad will still cover the area effectively?
I note that Lotus do a 305mm disc as an option on their 4pot package. Are these anywhere near as good as the AP's (as they are half the price!)
Is it advisable to do the rears, simply to balance out the effect of doing the fronts? Or do the rears suffer from fade as well?
Also, am I to assume that even though the disc is bigger, the standard pad will still cover the area effectively?
I note that Lotus do a 305mm disc as an option on their 4pot package. Are these anywhere near as good as the AP's (as they are half the price!)
woteva said:
...but I'm having major issues after only a few laps.
Interested in hearing what issues you've been having? I'm on standard (rubbish) drilled discs with RS42 pads and have always suffered with really bad grumbling when they get hot. Fine once they've cooled down but obviously it only takes a few laps to return.I'm just weighing up my final options before replacing discs and pads (had the 42s for a couple years now). Think I've settled on RC5+ pads as I do mixed usage, but don't want to go overkill on discs (EBC Ultimax looking likely at the moment).
Edited by Arun_D on Monday 8th July 16:29
woteva said:
Ok, thanks again.
Is it advisable to do the rears, simply to balance out the effect of doing the fronts? Or do the rears suffer from fade as well?
Also, am I to assume that even though the disc is bigger, the standard pad will still cover the area effectively?
I note that Lotus do a 305mm disc as an option on their 4pot package. Are these anywhere near as good as the AP's (as they are half the price!)
not in this context no...Is it advisable to do the rears, simply to balance out the effect of doing the fronts? Or do the rears suffer from fade as well?
Also, am I to assume that even though the disc is bigger, the standard pad will still cover the area effectively?
I note that Lotus do a 305mm disc as an option on their 4pot package. Are these anywhere near as good as the AP's (as they are half the price!)
if your looking to turn it into a track-only car with more power, slicks etc, then yes, need to think about a complete caliper/disk/MC change, but I am not reading your posts like this is the objective?
reason the brakes are fading is the std disks are crap and cannot shed the heat load your putting into them.
there are plenty of bigger cheap disks, but as usual, size is not everything, and some disks are better than others - this is also true of AP ones, some sizes are better than others.
304mm AP is about the best lightweight disk you can buy that the std caliper will fit round, I have used them for years on many road & race cars to good effect, only reason I am not suggesting this for the rear is the std caliper will not work with it.
290mm AP is the best solution with the std rear caliper.
Yes, if you want to spend money, then look at a rear caliper change, but then you have to consider the loss of handbrake unless you start to spend big money, also you will be into new master cylinders, etc etc.
if all your issue now is brake fade, then stick to just a disk/pad change.
PS. personally not a fan of CL pads for several reasons.
On my old S2, I upgraded the fronts to large AP rotors and 4 pots.
I put the old two pots on the back with some £150 brackets and kept the old rear callipers just for the hand brake.
The set up worked very well with better brake fluid, braided lines and CL6 pads.
Stopping power and balance was great with standard MC and ABS.
Ex77
I put the old two pots on the back with some £150 brackets and kept the old rear callipers just for the hand brake.
The set up worked very well with better brake fluid, braided lines and CL6 pads.
Stopping power and balance was great with standard MC and ABS.
Ex77
Yes, track days and road use only so I'm not keen on new calipers and stuffing with bias etc. And sorry I didn't explain what i meant. The lotus solution I just meant as a DISC alternative to the AP's, I wasn't intending on getting the calipers. But you've cleared up the price difference already.
Can I get away with just doing the fronts for now, and seeing how I go? Or do you definitely think I'm better off going for rears while I'm at it?
Can I get away with just doing the fronts for now, and seeing how I go? Or do you definitely think I'm better off going for rears while I'm at it?
Scuffers said:
drac said:
Scuffers said:
buy decent disks and pads, job done.
something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
Hi Simon,something like AP 304mm fronts and 290mm rears with padgid RS4-2 pads.
can you explain to me why in a car that reportedly has to much front brake bias the recommendation is to push it even further forward? I just put the DBA 5000's in standard sizes on mine, with 4-2 pads. (Mainly because local sourcing was easier.)
Has there ever been a rear brake solution which retains the handbrake but improves this situation while retaining the ABS?
Forgive me if I'm spouting rubbish.
yes the front is somewhat over-biased, but for a road car that's no bad thing.
Yes, on track it would be nice to move the bias back a bit, but this involves spending a lot of time and money on calipers etc, which for a road car is questionable.
if your picking up on me saying 290 rears and 304 fronts, that's not a balance changer per say as the biggest easy off the shelf disks you can swap to with the std calipers.
piers1 said:
Carbon Lorraine CL5+ pads sorted it for me, on my third set now, initial bite is staggering, hot or cold, and zero fade on track. Some are still concerned about some separating of pad to backing that occurred on original sets a log time ago though.
Digging up an old thread but just to add my 2p, I have the 308mm 4pot AP setup on my S240.The CL5+ is not good on track, brake fade after around 5 mins of hard driving. After a couple of cool downs and a few more sessions the pad has started to fall apart. However they were very good previous to the track days, with great cold bite and fast road driving, but would not recommend for quick drivers on track.
I am going to try the CL6 to see if that's any better all round.
Cheers👍
And in the interest of balance aka confusion I will add that I have found CL 5+ to be an excellent all round road and track pad. I am running AP 304 / 4 pots on the front and Eliseparts grooved with original calipers at the back.
I have tried Pagid RS 42/48, Ferodo DS2500 and other CLs eg RC 6/8 and for consistent retardation, effectiveness from cold, lack of material transfer, relative absence of rattle and squeal and general longevity the above combo does it for me.
I have tried Pagid RS 42/48, Ferodo DS2500 and other CLs eg RC 6/8 and for consistent retardation, effectiveness from cold, lack of material transfer, relative absence of rattle and squeal and general longevity the above combo does it for me.
And in the interest of balance aka confusion I will add that I have found CL 5+ to be an excellent all round road and track pad. I am running AP 304 / 4 pots on the front and Eliseparts grooved with original calipers at the back.
I have tried Pagid RS 42/48, Ferodo DS2500 and other CLs eg RC 6/8 and for consistent retardation, effectiveness from cold, lack of material transfer, relative absence of rattle and squeal and general longevity the above combo does it for me.
I have tried Pagid RS 42/48, Ferodo DS2500 and other CLs eg RC 6/8 and for consistent retardation, effectiveness from cold, lack of material transfer, relative absence of rattle and squeal and general longevity the above combo does it for me.
Edited by aceofspades on Wednesday 21st October 00:33
mikeerhymes said:
piers1 said:
Carbon Lorraine CL5+ pads sorted it for me, on my third set now, initial bite is staggering, hot or cold, and zero fade on track. Some are still concerned about some separating of pad to backing that occurred on original sets a log time ago though.
Digging up an old thread but just to add my 2p, I have the 308mm 4pot AP setup on my S240.The CL5+ is not good on track, brake fade after around 5 mins of hard driving. After a couple of cool downs and a few more sessions the pad has started to fall apart. However they were very good previous to the track days, with great cold bite and fast road driving, but would not recommend for quick drivers on track.
I am going to try the CL6 to see if that's any better all round.
Cheers??
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