Front suspension
Discussion
All uprights are the same, and interchangeable with TR.
There will be a little play in the fit between the upright and the trunnion, even with new components, but it should disappear once the top balljoint is bolted up.
You need to remove the caliper mounting casting in order to screw the trunnion far enough on to the upright - if you haven't done that, or at least ground a flat onto the bottom of it, then you need to do so and you'll get another turn of the thread.
There will be a little play in the fit between the upright and the trunnion, even with new components, but it should disappear once the top balljoint is bolted up.
You need to remove the caliper mounting casting in order to screw the trunnion far enough on to the upright - if you haven't done that, or at least ground a flat onto the bottom of it, then you need to do so and you'll get another turn of the thread.
Play was noticeable between upright and trunnion once assembled, no play apparent when the top balljoint was refitted. It went through the MOT ok too!
There was just a little more movement than I thought normal so thought I'd keep an eye out for a good set.
I assume the caliper mounting casting you mention is on the upright and would already have been removed from Reliant parts?
There was just a little more movement than I thought normal so thought I'd keep an eye out for a good set.
I assume the caliper mounting casting you mention is on the upright and would already have been removed from Reliant parts?
In a perfect world I'd have a pic handy. The part I mean is the cast iron bracket that bolts onto the upright via four bolts around the outside of the stub axle; it has two 'ears' to which the caliper is then attached.
Properly assembled, the lock stop boss on the trunnion will foul the bottom of this casting as you try to unscrew it; in theory, therefore, you have to remove it before you can change the trunnion: in practice, however, I have come across rebuilds where someone has started with a nice new 'naked' upright, fitted the stub axle, fitted this caliper mounting bracket, set the lock tabs on the bolts, fitted the steering arm to the back - it uses two of the same bolts as the caliper mounting bracket - and then screwed the whole lot into the trunnion as far as it will go.
Which is fine, except that as far as it will go in that condition is at least one turn less than it needs.
Properly assembled, the lock stop boss on the trunnion will foul the bottom of this casting as you try to unscrew it; in theory, therefore, you have to remove it before you can change the trunnion: in practice, however, I have come across rebuilds where someone has started with a nice new 'naked' upright, fitted the stub axle, fitted this caliper mounting bracket, set the lock tabs on the bolts, fitted the steering arm to the back - it uses two of the same bolts as the caliper mounting bracket - and then screwed the whole lot into the trunnion as far as it will go.
Which is fine, except that as far as it will go in that condition is at least one turn less than it needs.
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