Discussion
Just got what I think is an se5 (1972) it needs a few bit's n bob's, where can I get them from, I went on scimitarweb.com & tbh it seems a bit pipe & slippers...
What do you think- have I opened up for a world of pain to descend on me?!!!
Also, the v6 is a bit tappety- but was told once there old, they go like that. Is it just a case of a new rocker assembly?
What do you think- have I opened up for a world of pain to descend on me?!!!
Also, the v6 is a bit tappety- but was told once there old, they go like that. Is it just a case of a new rocker assembly?
hiya, welcome to scimitar ownership 
scimitarweb is a great forum for finding out what cars the bits and pieces were originally from, and some of the guys on there have a huge depth of knowledge, but i agree some of them are old farts. To be fair you have bought a 35yr old car so what do you expect
that said the compies section is always more into the banter and making t
he old scimitars go quicker if thats your intent (and it should be!).
cheers
CNHSS1
(guess which scimitars i prefer..)
scimitarweb is a great forum for finding out what cars the bits and pieces were originally from, and some of the guys on there have a huge depth of knowledge, but i agree some of them are old farts. To be fair you have bought a 35yr old car so what do you expect
that said the compies section is always more into the banter and making t
he old scimitars go quicker if thats your intent (and it should be!).
cheers
CNHSS1
(guess which scimitars i prefer..)
Welcome to the world of lost weekends and fun driving.
The Essex V6 was never a quiet engine, however new followers, good valve springs and roller rockers make things a little less rattly. The best way to setup is on a warm engine. Clearances are also best done on torque rather than a gap, far quicker and fool proof.
regards
'parker
The Essex V6 was never a quiet engine, however new followers, good valve springs and roller rockers make things a little less rattly. The best way to setup is on a warm engine. Clearances are also best done on torque rather than a gap, far quicker and fool proof.
regards
'parker
Ford used the most Mickey Mouse tappet adjuster/locknuts that it's possible to imagine: that nice John Wade will sell you a set of proper one sthat will stay put when you adjust them.
Alternatively you can take the originals off, smack each one in turn with a hammer to squat them a bit so they grip the rocker studs again, and then put them back.
Personally I do them cold, with a feeler gauge, but I'm an old fart and I know my rocker tips haven't worn hollow.
Alternatively you can take the originals off, smack each one in turn with a hammer to squat them a bit so they grip the rocker studs again, and then put them back.
Personally I do them cold, with a feeler gauge, but I'm an old fart and I know my rocker tips haven't worn hollow.
Nick_F said:
Ford used the most Mickey Mouse tappet adjuster/locknuts that it's possible to imagine: that nice John Wade will sell you a set of proper one sthat will stay put when you adjust them.
Alternatively you can take the originals off, smack each one in turn with a hammer to squat them a bit so they grip the rocker studs again, and then put them back.
Personally I do them cold, with a feeler gauge, but I'm an old fart and I know my rocker tips haven't worn hollow.
I used to do them with the engine running- but that was on my old midget & a bit more acessable!Alternatively you can take the originals off, smack each one in turn with a hammer to squat them a bit so they grip the rocker studs again, and then put them back.
Personally I do them cold, with a feeler gauge, but I'm an old fart and I know my rocker tips haven't worn hollow.
Is there space on the threads to put a locknut or use threadlock- or will that cause problems later down the line?
The originals are locknuts, at least in theory. The dome-shaped section at the top should be slightly oval so that it grips the thread.
You could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
On the Triumphs I used to have I'd set the tappets cold and then start the engine and tweak any that were still noisy whilst it was running - batters the living daylights out of the feeler gauge, though. Bear in mind that the idea is to provide the clearance needed to ensure maximim valve lift without impeding valve closure; this may or may not be the same as the clearance required for silent running; with the 290 cam I have it definately isn't.
You could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
On the Triumphs I used to have I'd set the tappets cold and then start the engine and tweak any that were still noisy whilst it was running - batters the living daylights out of the feeler gauge, though. Bear in mind that the idea is to provide the clearance needed to ensure maximim valve lift without impeding valve closure; this may or may not be the same as the clearance required for silent running; with the 290 cam I have it definately isn't.
Nick_F said:
The originals are locknuts, at least in theory. The dome-shaped section at the top should be slightly oval so that it grips the thread.
You could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
sorry- I meant adding an extra nut to effectively lock off the one underneath itYou could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
ol' dirty said:
Nick_F said:
The originals are locknuts, at least in theory. The dome-shaped section at the top should be slightly oval so that it grips the thread.
You could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
sorry- I meant adding an extra nut to effectively lock off the one underneath itYou could source some all-steel locknuts - K-Nuts or some such - but I wouldn't bother with nylocks (they'll melt?) or threadlock (too much degreasing needed). The ones John does incorporate a grubscrew in the top which locks them properly.
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