Discussion
id forgotten about old car gremlins until the other day.
im driving alog, i flick the o/d on. my od only works in 3rd and 4th. instead of the o/d, the wipers start up. i switch the o/d off and the wipers stop. and ever since, ive had o/d in every gear.
is it jus tme or is that actual magic going on in my wiring loom there?
im driving alog, i flick the o/d on. my od only works in 3rd and 4th. instead of the o/d, the wipers start up. i switch the o/d off and the wipers stop. and ever since, ive had o/d in every gear.
is it jus tme or is that actual magic going on in my wiring loom there?
There is not much to the circuit really. A control switch, an inhibitor switch and a solenoid.
the control switch normally doesn't give any problems. the inhibitors can get jammed on though. This is running from an ignition live and through the 2 switches then solenoid is earthed direct to the overdrive.
Another nasty is that the solenoid is jammed or the O/D can't release pressure. if the O/D comes on and off then it will only be electrical so thats safe. if its on permanently then you will have to assess route of the problem. If its electrical disengage the solenoid before driving because running reverse on an o/d on will kill it and loosing all drive is really bad (also quite embarrassing
) If its not wiring then check the O/D pressure (or get someone else to do it if you don't have the kit).
Assuming that it is electrical chances are its a short circuit in the loom. best get in some beer, dig out your 'meter and find somewhere to shout expletives loudly without people hearing you.
The best places for a short are at any point where the loom passes through the bodywork as the grommets have usually perished allowing the insulation to get stripped - the nearside inner wing on the SE6's is a good place to start.
Also check that someone hasn't "scotch locked" the hell out of the loom as these buggers have a tendancy to break into other circuits aswell if badly placed - Scotch locks are the connectors of the devil and your car should be cleansed of them.
Also bear in mind that scims have really great earthing problems, being fibreglass cars with limited strap points and deteriorated 3 and 4 way butt blocks - which incidently you can't buy anymore!
regards
'parker
edited on the account I can't spell
the control switch normally doesn't give any problems. the inhibitors can get jammed on though. This is running from an ignition live and through the 2 switches then solenoid is earthed direct to the overdrive.
Another nasty is that the solenoid is jammed or the O/D can't release pressure. if the O/D comes on and off then it will only be electrical so thats safe. if its on permanently then you will have to assess route of the problem. If its electrical disengage the solenoid before driving because running reverse on an o/d on will kill it and loosing all drive is really bad (also quite embarrassing
) If its not wiring then check the O/D pressure (or get someone else to do it if you don't have the kit). Assuming that it is electrical chances are its a short circuit in the loom. best get in some beer, dig out your 'meter and find somewhere to shout expletives loudly without people hearing you.
The best places for a short are at any point where the loom passes through the bodywork as the grommets have usually perished allowing the insulation to get stripped - the nearside inner wing on the SE6's is a good place to start.
Also check that someone hasn't "scotch locked" the hell out of the loom as these buggers have a tendancy to break into other circuits aswell if badly placed - Scotch locks are the connectors of the devil and your car should be cleansed of them.
Also bear in mind that scims have really great earthing problems, being fibreglass cars with limited strap points and deteriorated 3 and 4 way butt blocks - which incidently you can't buy anymore!
regards
'parker
edited on the account I can't spell
Edited by Hardparker on Tuesday 3rd July 22:56
Hi 'donkeys,
Its just wiring then, so not a problem. Electrical is easier and a lot less stressful than mechanical stuff - although I do know a lot of people who would say otherwise. You already know which circuits are at fault as the o/d circuit operated the wipers. these all share the same section of loom from mid dash and along the near side inner wing. so quite easy to locate and a bugger to fix if its tucked in the dash
The o/d inhibitor is an easy fix, it will do one of two things, 1) come loose and move out of alignment so its is on constantly 2) short out - this option is very unlikely. On the later type F boxes (the ones with 3 linkages to the side of the box) the inhibitor will always drop to make circuit as pushed to break contact when you are in 1st, 2nd or R. Its been a while since I've seen one of the earlier boxes and I can't remember the switching action, but would be similar. To adjust the one fitted to the type F jack the car up at the back and slacken the retaining bolt/nut to just off pinch tight and turn until it only makes contact when 3rd or 4th and tighten the bolt/nut again. check circuit with a meter or bulb so that you know when its on and off. you can of course set it up to work in all forward gears just as easy, however.....
It will not do any damage running the overdrive in lower gears as there is less loading on it, the engine doesn't generate any more power in lower gears it just has better leverage. although in a sport application where a fast shift between gears in a part of a track or circuit can prove an advantage say you needed to shift 2 to 3 to 2 in fast succession then the O/D comes in handy. Also for shedding speed dropping the overdrive off at midrevs and then on again will slow you down pretty quickly but not so good for the engine. this was used a lot by rally drivers in the past to get good drift before coming on the power, much like a handbrake turn.
Running the o/d in reverse is bad on a very big way and should never be done. it can cause severe loss of street cred when you reverse out of the parking bay and then go to pull off only to find the o/d is totally lunched and you have no drive
o/d is only really neccessary for keeping the right engine speeds for good fuel economy ie in the twenties rather than 'teens per gallon.
regards
'parker
Its just wiring then, so not a problem. Electrical is easier and a lot less stressful than mechanical stuff - although I do know a lot of people who would say otherwise. You already know which circuits are at fault as the o/d circuit operated the wipers. these all share the same section of loom from mid dash and along the near side inner wing. so quite easy to locate and a bugger to fix if its tucked in the dash
The o/d inhibitor is an easy fix, it will do one of two things, 1) come loose and move out of alignment so its is on constantly 2) short out - this option is very unlikely. On the later type F boxes (the ones with 3 linkages to the side of the box) the inhibitor will always drop to make circuit as pushed to break contact when you are in 1st, 2nd or R. Its been a while since I've seen one of the earlier boxes and I can't remember the switching action, but would be similar. To adjust the one fitted to the type F jack the car up at the back and slacken the retaining bolt/nut to just off pinch tight and turn until it only makes contact when 3rd or 4th and tighten the bolt/nut again. check circuit with a meter or bulb so that you know when its on and off. you can of course set it up to work in all forward gears just as easy, however.....
It will not do any damage running the overdrive in lower gears as there is less loading on it, the engine doesn't generate any more power in lower gears it just has better leverage. although in a sport application where a fast shift between gears in a part of a track or circuit can prove an advantage say you needed to shift 2 to 3 to 2 in fast succession then the O/D comes in handy. Also for shedding speed dropping the overdrive off at midrevs and then on again will slow you down pretty quickly but not so good for the engine. this was used a lot by rally drivers in the past to get good drift before coming on the power, much like a handbrake turn.
Running the o/d in reverse is bad on a very big way and should never be done. it can cause severe loss of street cred when you reverse out of the parking bay and then go to pull off only to find the o/d is totally lunched and you have no drive
o/d is only really neccessary for keeping the right engine speeds for good fuel economy ie in the twenties rather than 'teens per gallon.
regards
'parker
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