Discussion
Guys,
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
Thanks
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
Thanks
davemac250 said:
Guys,
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
Around the £150 mark is about the price I've usually seen posted for a garage to do a sump drop n clean.How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
However, as Aero's don't tend to suffer so much from the sludge issue, is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this...?
Not saying don't do it, as peace of mind and all that is a good thing, just wondering....?
Is it a manual or auto, as the auto's are a bit of a pain to do, and Saab indie's usually charge a bit more labour to do a sump drop on a auto Aero IIRC.
Have you got the newest spec PCV kit mod already?
As if not, then I would strongly recommend you do that at the same time as the sump clean, as it's often the break down of the degraded old PCV hoses etc that clog up the oil pick filter in the sump.
Not sure why you'd want to do the shells though, unless the car has been starved of oil, these should be fine, and no need to worry about them.
davemac250 said:
davemac250 said:
Guys,
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
aeropilot said:
Around the £150 mark is about the price I've usually seen posted for a garage to do a sump drop n clean.
However, as Aero's don't tend to suffer so much from the sludge issue, is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this...?
Only that the garage advised it. I appreciate they are a bit of a swear word in these parts (Abbott Racing) but so far they have (apart from trying to charge a full hours labour on a tracking adjustment) been decent with me - the fact they are 2 miles from my UK house helps. However, as Aero's don't tend to suffer so much from the sludge issue, is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this...?
aeropilot said:
Not saying don't do it, as peace of mind and all that is a good thing, just wondering....?
As above - the advice was based on a chat with them where I told them my plan was to run this till it dies and I'd rather take cheaper preventative steps now then be hit later and have to scrap it early. They also said that is this was my approach, do the shells whilst in there as they are accessible whilst this process is carried out.aeropilot said:
Is it a manual or auto, as the auto's are a bit of a pain to do, and Saab indie's usually charge a bit more labour to do a sump drop on a auto Aero IIRC.
Manual.aeropilot said:
Have you got the newest spec PCV kit mod already?
Sorry lost me a bit, what is this? Pressure control valve? Guessing that could cause my WOT hesitation and backing off of torque meter occasionally?aeropilot said:
As if not, then I would strongly recommend you do that at the same time as the sump clean, as it's often the break down of the degraded old PCV hoses etc that clog up the oil pick filter in the sump.
Sounds like a plan. 
aeropilot said:
Not sure why you'd want to do the shells though, unless the car has been starved of oil, these should be fine, and no need to worry about them.
This was simply a possible. I don't think this has ever happened. It was a thing to consider. If this isn't a problem, and I'm thinking that if there was evidence of sludging then there could have been oil starvation.Maybe this is best done by myself and assess the current state of things before handing over to a garage who, whilst having been very good with me, have not had the most favourable reviews at times.
On a personal self serving note.
AT LAST I HAVE SUSSED QUOTING!
davemac250 said:
aeropilot said:
Have you got the newest spec PCV kit mod already?
Sorry lost me a bit, what is this? Pressure control valve? Guessing that could cause my WOT hesitation and backing off of torque meter occasionally?This is what you need to buy if it hasn't been already fitted to your car.
http://www.elkparts.com/saab-93-m98-to-02/engine/s...
If Abbott are that close then, yes OK to use, just be wary of 'extras'...... like needing new shells
Of course, if the bottom end is sludged up and it has had a bit of oil starvation then yes it would be advisable to do them if they are marked. If they are that close to you, at least you can go and have a look yourself to see what condition the sump is in before they clean it, rather than relying on them to tell you you need them 
If the sump is really clogged and sludged, then maybe worth having the caps off to look..... if (as is more likely) the sump and strainer is relatively clean, then I'd not bother.
Edited by aeropilot on Monday 24th January 16:10
davemac250 said:
davemac250 said:
davemac250 said:
Guys,
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
How easy is it to de-sludge the sump?
Garage has quoted £100 for it - £300 if I get the shells done at the same time.
I'm reasonably proficient with a set of spanners, but have no pit or lift so this would have to be done using trolley jacks, axle stands and ramps - not ideal.
My plan was - drop the oil and flush the engine, sump off clean it out, re-attach, flush engine a second time, oil back.
Is it worth getting the shells done as well.
Car is a 2002 Aero, covered 95k.
aeropilot said:
Around the £150 mark is about the price I've usually seen posted for a garage to do a sump drop n clean.
However, as Aero's don't tend to suffer so much from the sludge issue, is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this...?
Only that the garage advised it. I appreciate they are a bit of a swear word in these parts (Abbott Racing) but so far they have (apart from trying to charge a full hours labour on a tracking adjustment) been decent with me - the fact they are 2 miles from my UK house helps. However, as Aero's don't tend to suffer so much from the sludge issue, is there a particular reason you feel you need to do this...?
aeropilot said:
Not saying don't do it, as peace of mind and all that is a good thing, just wondering....?
As above - the advice was based on a chat with them where I told them my plan was to run this till it dies and I'd rather take cheaper preventative steps now then be hit later and have to scrap it early. They also said that is this was my approach, do the shells whilst in there as they are accessible whilst this process is carried out.aeropilot said:
Is it a manual or auto, as the auto's are a bit of a pain to do, and Saab indie's usually charge a bit more labour to do a sump drop on a auto Aero IIRC.
Manual.aeropilot said:
Have you got the newest spec PCV kit mod already?
Sorry lost me a bit, what is this? Pressure control valve? Guessing that could cause my WOT hesitation and backing off of torque meter occasionally?aeropilot said:
As if not, then I would strongly recommend you do that at the same time as the sump clean, as it's often the break down of the degraded old PCV hoses etc that clog up the oil pick filter in the sump.
Sounds like a plan. aeropilot said:
Not sure why you'd want to do the shells though, unless the car has been starved of oil, these should be fine, and no need to worry about them.
This was simply a possible. I don't think this has ever happened. It was a thing to consider. If this isn't a problem, and I'm thinking that if there was evidence of sludging then there could have been oil starvation.Maybe this is best done by myself and assess the current state of things before handing over to a garage who, whilst having been very good with me, have not had the most favourable reviews at times.
On a personal self serving note.
AT LAST I HAVE SUSSED QUOTING!
You may need to change the crank case ventilation hose as well, give it a squeeze, its the pipe coming out of rocker cover
http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPat...
My aero is a 2002 batch and my vent pipe has gone squidgy, had the sump dropped and it was fine but defo worth doing for peace of mind
http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?cPat...
My aero is a 2002 batch and my vent pipe has gone squidgy, had the sump dropped and it was fine but defo worth doing for peace of mind
I cleaned my sump from home, in retrospect, I wish i'd have gone to a garage to have it done. The PCV kit in mine was original and had deteriorated from the inside, so when I removed the strainer in the sump I found a mound of little rubber globules building up which I have no doubt would have caused a blockage eventually, cleaning the sump and swapping the PCV for the newer kit top and bottom was well worth it IMO.
I don't see how it can cost £100 to drop the sump and clean, then cost £200 more to replace the shells. Big end shells are less than £30, all eight genuine Saab. Once the sump is off it's a simple matter of undoing eight nuts, replacing the shells and torquing the nuts up - all told an extra half hour on top of a sump drop. In other words £30 plus half hour labour , or an extra 1 hour if minimal labour time / charge applied.
Regardless of cost, it's not worth not doing the shells for the extra cost involved if priced correctly. The shells are known to wear, even if Aero models not so much so. It's still good preventative maintenance and engineering practice.
Regardless of cost, it's not worth not doing the shells for the extra cost involved if priced correctly. The shells are known to wear, even if Aero models not so much so. It's still good preventative maintenance and engineering practice.
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