95 Aero Hot - advice sought

95 Aero Hot - advice sought

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Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Saturday 18th May 2013
quotequote all
Hi everyone

Apologies if this has been asked before.

Looking at a 2002 Aero Hot 2.3 on Monday with 95,000 miles on the clock.

Can anyone advise on what to look out for and are these cars as quick as I am led to believe ?

Thanks for any info on these cars.


chasdad

276 posts

151 months

Saturday 18th May 2013
quotequote all
I had one just like that. Brake calipers can stick.drop links and suspension parts seem to wear.and make sure it been serviced using correct oil Other wise may need a sump drop.and find out if it's had a pcv update

paul makin

56 posts

143 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
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sump drop, clean and retro-fit latest PCV kit for engine longevity. must have fully synthetic

2002 would be B235 with TD04 and 250bhp - not too shabby off the line but it's a weighty old barge. midrange is what these are all about, try a few 50-100 runs. a number of people on various forums now offering T7 mapping, add in a few hardware upgrades (FPR and downpipe mainly)and significant power and torque increases are there for the taking. i've had standard and modified versions of "normal" turbo's, HOTs and Aero's in 9-3 and 9-5 variants - yep, quick cars

front lower arms are service items really, try and avoid the xenon lamps (sensors will fail and the self-levelling will go haywire and the xenon lamps themselves are eye-wateringly expensive), rear droplinks, rear g/box mounting gets floppy (obstructive changes esp into reverse). wet/dirty blocks often lead to HGF being suggested - frequently a head re-torque will fix it. rear susp bushes can get flexy and give you some interesting tyre wear, subframe bushes can give out. i have had some really high mile cars that have been on original clutches but general advice is to expect around 100k per unit. for some reason, i've had to change more than a couple of 'stats on Saabs - cheap generic jobby and easily accesible. don't know if the cooling/heating system had been changed by 02 but unexplained water loss with no symptoms other than a falling level will be the heater by-pass valve. cheap to replace but access is interesting

misfires will be failing DI pack - check it for electrical "burny" type smell, easy but expensive. hard to isolate/intermittent starting problems often traced to crank sensor. you'll not need to spend much money on a replacement but you will have to hire a small handed person in order to get at it.

electrics are pretty robust, security systems tend to behave except for the siren battery back-up. this can be disconnected leaving just the immobiliser or swap the unit for just a few pounds. display pixels will fail - the info display will need marrying to the car using Tech2 when replaced. ICE is also permanently "locked in" electronically to the car and also to the other components - no mix and match i'm afraid. A/C controller can produce some odd malfunctions - the flaps/gear wheels are quite weak and stuff gets very confused - fixes using upgraded bits are readily available

if you do engage in any tuning, pay particular attention to the torque curve - many have now found the weak link in the drivetrain and have got very skilled at swapping gearboxes

regards, paul

Edited by paul makin on Sunday 19th May 16:20

Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
quotequote all
Thanks Paul for taking the time to reply.

Thats a great reply with a lot of information.

What would you recommend with regards to improving performance and what costs would be involved ?

Also what BHP would you expect for the investment ?

Many Thanks

Med1c

Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
quotequote all
chasdad said:
I had one just like that. Brake calipers can stick.drop links and suspension parts seem to wear.and make sure it been serviced using correct oil Other wise may need a sump drop.and find out if it's had a pcv update
Will do Chasdad - Thank you

paul makin

56 posts

143 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
quotequote all
i think the template for a TD04 Aero is to aim (eventually) for a 3.5 bar FPR, a 3" downpipe (with or without system - doesn't seem to make a great deal of difference)and then remap.

stage 1 (which is just a raised boost request)adds very little. add in the hardware though and you'll be around 290bhp (although i have seen more) and around 460Nm. generally people refer to this as Stage 3.

getting the power isn't really the problem - traction will be the issue. yours will have TC and ESP, you'd need to play around with it on and off to see which works best.

the stock air-box, intercooler and injectors will be ok at this level. to get above 300bhp (reliably), more than "bolt ons" are going to be required

regards
paul


Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
quotequote all
Thats great Paul

Thank you for all this info - Looking forward to the 'new project' now :-)

Will keep you updated with what happens.

Just found this company Paul.

www.abbottracing.net

Med1c

paul makin

56 posts

143 months

Sunday 19th May 2013
quotequote all
yep, Abbott are out there. also have a look for Neo Brothers - later model breakers and, i believe, the official UK outlet for Maptun. Maptun do some real good stuff, albeit at a price.

i also find the M5 Saab Centre and Suffolk Saab (both on the bay of dreams) to be very reliable sellers of used parts

don't spend lots of money on remaps before checking out some of the enthusiasts who offer remaps - there's a lot of debate about which tuners maps are "best" but, in all honestly, i've never needed anything other than a "Noobtune" at a fraction of the cost and with the benefit of real-time mapping if you have the time to pop over to Karl's to get it done

let us know if you do get it, my 04 Aero is about to be retired so that i can concentrate on the Viggen but i will miss it and always like to see others !!

paul

Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Monday 20th May 2013
quotequote all
Thanks Paul

Just found out the car has a delay from park into drive - Is this the start of a major problem on these cars ?


paul makin

56 posts

143 months

Monday 20th May 2013
quotequote all
ooo- not too sure on this, always had manuals

however, if the car drives normnally once D is engaged then i think you can rule out the simple things - linkages, selector bands etc

could be mechanical (forward clutch?) or hydraulic (valve seals etc). is the level correct and the ATF looking like it should?, history of filter change, any obvious leakage of ATF etc?

is the transmission warning light on?

might be best to leave this one as i'm pretty sure the fix will involve at least one visit to to an auto transmission specialist and could become costly


paul

SiH

1,835 posts

254 months

Monday 20th May 2013
quotequote all
paul makin said:
ooo- not too sure on this, always had manuals

however, if the car drives normnally once D is engaged then i think you can rule out the simple things - linkages, selector bands etc

could be mechanical (forward clutch?) or hydraulic (valve seals etc). is the level correct and the ATF looking like it should?, history of filter change, any obvious leakage of ATF etc?

is the transmission warning light on?

might be best to leave this one as i'm pretty sure the fix will involve at least one visit to to an auto transmission specialist and could become costly


paul
I'd agree with Paul on this one; there are a fair few HOT 9-5s out there and many of them will have perfectly functioning gearboxes. The delay that you mention could be something simple but a problematic autobox is not something that you want to end up with. Paul and others have also given you the list of things to look out for, I'd simply agree with what they've said. I've got a HOT 9-5 estate ('99 vintage) and it's been great. Cheap (except for the MPG!) and cheerful motoring with big comfy armchairs all round.

Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Tuesday 21st May 2013
quotequote all
The Car drives fine but the slight 'jump' is only when the car heats up !

Any guesses ?

Thanks for replying.

paul makin

56 posts

143 months

Tuesday 21st May 2013
quotequote all
fluid degrading with heat? might be thinning out and weeping past a seal thus reducing hydraulic pressure

beyond that i'm out (and that only makes a sort of theoretical sense) !!

paul

bikerPaul

1,693 posts

217 months

Tuesday 21st May 2013
quotequote all
Med1c said:
Thanks Paul

Just found out the car has a delay from park into drive - Is this the start of a major problem on these cars ?
Do you know if the gearbox oil has been replaced? I did mine after 70k and it made a difference. Hopefully that simple.

P2BS

3,755 posts

150 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
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I'll throw my 2c onto the tail end of this thread...
Being a 2002 model, yours isn't a HOT Aero. Well, it is, but they dropped the HOT designation after 2001 as there was only one Aero after that. So it'll be the 250bhp B235R-engined Aero. A £70 Noobtune stage 1 remap will take this up to 275bhp, which - when you've experienced it - you'll realise is plenty! After that things start getting more expensive with hardware upgrades. Of course things will get expensive from the start if you pay Abbotts £400 for one of their stage 1 remaps - which does the same thing as the Noobtune remap.
You need to sort your auto box issues first though before you cause any long-term damage there. Those Aisin Warner boxes are pretty tough, so maybe a fluid change will help you out. Having driven a lot of manual & auto 9-5's, the auto ones are a lot slower than the manuals - and a lot more juicy - which is why I wouldn't personally buy one.
There's a lot of information on UKSaabs.co.uk, saabscene.co.uk, saabcentral... etc etc.

Med1c

Original Poster:

1,127 posts

203 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
quotequote all
bikerPaul said:
Do you know if the gearbox oil has been replaced? I did mine after 70k and it made a difference. Hopefully that simple.
What oil do you recommend Paul ?

Not sure if the oil has been replaced .

P2BS

3,755 posts

150 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
quotequote all
This is as cheap as it gets: http://www.partsforsaabs.com/product_info.php?prod...

The DIY is here: http://saabworld.net/f29/saab-9-5-automatic-transm...
Not difficult by any stretch. So much fluid is required as you need to essentially dilute the old stuff out of there.
HTH

Rollcage

11,327 posts

199 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
quotequote all
Some great advice there Paul!

I constantly think of a 9-5 HOT Aero to replace my Impreza - it would seem to offer the pace of one with a bit more comfort and luxury.

What is the real world MPG like on one - a lot of the ones I see on Ebay bang on about 35-40mpg at the 70mph. Is this achievable, or pie in the sky?

bikerPaul

1,693 posts

217 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
quotequote all
Rollcage said:
Some great advice there Paul!

I constantly think of a 9-5 HOT Aero to replace my Impreza - it would seem to offer the pace of one with a bit more comfort and luxury.

What is the real world MPG like on one - a lot of the ones I see on Ebay bang on about 35-40mpg at the 70mph. Is this achievable, or pie in the sky?
I have a 2006 Dame Edna slush boxed Aero estate and in town don't think you'll get 20mpg in rush hour traffic. 18 or 19 at best in stop start traffic. Fully laden with 2 adults, 3 kids and a roofbox saw it average 30mpg from Scotland to France and back again.

If you worry about fuel then i'd say don't go near one.

dave stew

1,502 posts

174 months

Wednesday 22nd May 2013
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I recently bought a 2007 Dame Edna manual Aero estate to replace a manual V70 T5. Going off the computer (life's too short for the old brim the tank and get the calculator out nonsense), I get 24 MPG in mixed town work and 34 on a run. This is in both cases 2 MPG better than the 5 pot T5.

I really wouldn't bother with the slusher - slower, worse MPG and poor CO2 emissions which put later ones into £400 pa road tax - gulp!