Remapping 9-5 2.2 Tid
Discussion
Without going into the why's & how's, it's not possible to remap this engine. Many have tried & failed. Your only option is a tuning box - my personal recommendation is the Steinbauer one (common to Vauxhall / Opel DTI engines), part number 200032. They were £400 new ish, but there are some secondhand ones knocking about. Abbott's still sell them as far as I know. They boost to about 145bhp & add loads of torque too.
HTH
HTH
By the way, none of the add-on tuning boxes will help fuel economy. They all get the extra bhp by simply adding more fuel. I've never known any add-on box or remap to improve true fuel economy. A lot of remaps mess up the values on the bord computer, so people think they're getting better economy than they are.
The 2.2TiD is a great engine - I had a 2005 model a few years ago that went to spaceship miles. A few pointers to hopefully help you out when you go to collect it:
- Make sure all the dash warning lights come on & then go out when you turn the key - the check engine light can appear when there are EGR valve / MAP sensor issues. Neither are expensive fixes as such, but some people put some tape over the light rather than fix the cause. Airbag light faults are rare. Any ABS fault could be a cracked reluctor ring (the driveshaft part that the ABS sensor reads).
- They're not the quietest engines at idle, but fine when you get going.
- The Auto gearbox with this engine is a recipe for high fuel consumption, particularly in city use.
- Missing pixels from the SID &/or Climate unit - SID is less troublesome after 2004, but the climate issue was never properly resolved.
- Get 2 keys with it. Replacements are pricey.
- Error codes in the climate unit - press Auto & Off together to recalibrate the unit, then read the codes - the first number is the number of faults, the second alternating numbers are the fault codes (e.g. 2-08/11 - 2 faults, codes 08 & 11). Look them up on google to get their meanings. Faults can drive you crazy, i.e. no heat on the LHS of the car, no warm air, no cold air - or ANY COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE!
- Gearshift on manual cars can be a bit like stirring porridge sometimes - but make sure you can engage all gears smoothly & without any crunching.
- The outer skin on the rear exhaust silencer can rot through - but there's lots of metal underneath so it's nowhere near blowing / falling off.
Everything else is like any other used car - suspension wear, previous MOT advisories. Broken springs are rare (very rare), make sure both headlights work, and make sure you get good radio reception (stupid aerial booster thing near the rear window can fail). Finally make sure everything on the bootlid works, i.e. reversing lights, fog lights, remote release. The loom to the bootlid from the body can fail.
Hope this helps :-)
- Make sure all the dash warning lights come on & then go out when you turn the key - the check engine light can appear when there are EGR valve / MAP sensor issues. Neither are expensive fixes as such, but some people put some tape over the light rather than fix the cause. Airbag light faults are rare. Any ABS fault could be a cracked reluctor ring (the driveshaft part that the ABS sensor reads).
- They're not the quietest engines at idle, but fine when you get going.
- The Auto gearbox with this engine is a recipe for high fuel consumption, particularly in city use.
- Missing pixels from the SID &/or Climate unit - SID is less troublesome after 2004, but the climate issue was never properly resolved.
- Get 2 keys with it. Replacements are pricey.
- Error codes in the climate unit - press Auto & Off together to recalibrate the unit, then read the codes - the first number is the number of faults, the second alternating numbers are the fault codes (e.g. 2-08/11 - 2 faults, codes 08 & 11). Look them up on google to get their meanings. Faults can drive you crazy, i.e. no heat on the LHS of the car, no warm air, no cold air - or ANY COMBINATION OF THE ABOVE!
- Gearshift on manual cars can be a bit like stirring porridge sometimes - but make sure you can engage all gears smoothly & without any crunching.
- The outer skin on the rear exhaust silencer can rot through - but there's lots of metal underneath so it's nowhere near blowing / falling off.
Everything else is like any other used car - suspension wear, previous MOT advisories. Broken springs are rare (very rare), make sure both headlights work, and make sure you get good radio reception (stupid aerial booster thing near the rear window can fail). Finally make sure everything on the bootlid works, i.e. reversing lights, fog lights, remote release. The loom to the bootlid from the body can fail.
Hope this helps :-)
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