Outhouse conversion
Discussion
We have been discussing a friend's outhouse at work, currently just a single story, single brick thickness, flat roof thingy about 12'x8' and attached to the rear wall of their house.
To make it more usable all year round what is the best way of sorting the inside walls and roof(the inside of which is wooden with cross beams about a foot apart and 2 inches deep) I have suggested batons on the walls with some sort of insulation and then plasterboard on top, with the same on the roof using the cross beams to fix to. Is this the best way to do it cheaply and are there building regs/planning etc to be considered? It already has power installed.
Ta.
To make it more usable all year round what is the best way of sorting the inside walls and roof(the inside of which is wooden with cross beams about a foot apart and 2 inches deep) I have suggested batons on the walls with some sort of insulation and then plasterboard on top, with the same on the roof using the cross beams to fix to. Is this the best way to do it cheaply and are there building regs/planning etc to be considered? It already has power installed.
Ta.
BlueEyedBoy said:
I did a similar thing to a room on my house. Single brick. Just added battening to the inside walls 6 inch thick, filled with polystyrene insulation sheets, then plaster board on top, was the warmest room in the house.
Would do the same. Infact, my garage might become a room soon, although its not attached to the house. Would be better for working on pc's in the warm.From next month you won't need planning consent -
link from the Telegraph -
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2779293/Hou...
link from the Telegraph -
http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/uknews/2779293/Hou...
As long as you are not using it as a habitable room building regs need not be a concern.
I would start with the floor. You need to make sure it is not damp (ie if it doesnt have a DPM you need to install one). If it doesnt have one you could either lay a membrane on top of the existing concrete floor and a screed if you have enough ceiling height. Alternatively dig out the existing floor, install a membrane, some insulation (50mm of cellotex or similar - the thicker the better) and then screed.
If you just board the ceiling joists (or insulate and board) you will create a condensation problem. What you need to create is a 'cold' flat roof. Cut out a couple of bricks where the joists are so that air can circulate around the timbers and replace with airbricks. Then install insulation below the existing joists (rockwool wood be fine but cellotex better - again the thicker the better) and board.
With the walls the 2 problems you want to solve will be penetrating damp (from driving rain) and condensation.
To solve the damp attach a vapour barrier to the walls and tape the joints. Now attach timber battens to the wall (tanalised 2" x 2" with stainless fixings). Infill the gaps with cellotex and board. Tape joints and skim the ceiling and walls.
Before the boards go on put in any services you think you may need (sockets, switches etc).
Fix skirtings and architraves, lick of paint and some flooring and you will have a dry cosy space (that you are not inhabiting).
I would start with the floor. You need to make sure it is not damp (ie if it doesnt have a DPM you need to install one). If it doesnt have one you could either lay a membrane on top of the existing concrete floor and a screed if you have enough ceiling height. Alternatively dig out the existing floor, install a membrane, some insulation (50mm of cellotex or similar - the thicker the better) and then screed.
If you just board the ceiling joists (or insulate and board) you will create a condensation problem. What you need to create is a 'cold' flat roof. Cut out a couple of bricks where the joists are so that air can circulate around the timbers and replace with airbricks. Then install insulation below the existing joists (rockwool wood be fine but cellotex better - again the thicker the better) and board.
With the walls the 2 problems you want to solve will be penetrating damp (from driving rain) and condensation.
To solve the damp attach a vapour barrier to the walls and tape the joints. Now attach timber battens to the wall (tanalised 2" x 2" with stainless fixings). Infill the gaps with cellotex and board. Tape joints and skim the ceiling and walls.
Before the boards go on put in any services you think you may need (sockets, switches etc).
Fix skirtings and architraves, lick of paint and some flooring and you will have a dry cosy space (that you are not inhabiting).
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