Plumbing (shower booster pump) question.

[Kentish]

I'm fairly practical so I'm going to have a go at fitting a shower booster pump, probably a Watermill or Stuart Turner (about £380) to serve 2 showers (about 3.5 bar). I know this will be OK in size.

My question is, does anyone know of any plumbing fitting to tap into the copper supply pipes (18mm or 22mm copper) for both hot and cold that you don't need to cut into the pipe to fit. I recall sometime ago seeing a fitting that clamps, punctures and seals around the pipe as you tighten the fitting up. They must also be able to withstand 4 bar of pressure form the pump.

Has anyone used these and did you have any problems?

Also, are there any reliable alternatives?

TIA :)

[Fluffy]

I had one of those screw on, puncture and seal efforts for a hose pipe tap.
DO NOT under any circumstances use them. They are cr@p.
Do it properly. Cut the pipe and put in a T-junction, its not a massive job, as long as you remember to turn the water off and drain the pipes.
If you're going to spend the money on the pump etc, its only a couple of quid for the joints.

That's just my opinion, after nearly flooding the kitchen because the self-sealing unit DIDN'T.

[Mrr T]

Hi did this a while ago. You cannot take the supply from existing pipes which serve other fittings, you need new 18mm supplies from the cold and hot water tanks. The fitting for cold water take is just a standard 18mm as you can get access to fit from both sides but for the hot water tank you will need an Essex Flang. Yep and that is not a dodgy blonde from Basildon.

[slikk]

Another problem with these fittings is that they dont allow "full bore" branching, and the flow rate is therefore reduced. This is okay for a washing machine or such like, but not a power shower.

kim

[mybrainhurts]

Kentish said:

I'm fairly practical so I'm going to have a go at fitting a shower booster pump....

Have you asked John Prescott if he's going to let you do this dangerous thing....?

[seasider]

Fitted a pump but only feeding one shower. Cut a length out of the hot & cold shower feed in the airing cupboard then Copper flexi pipes in & out of the pump (Stuart Turner i think). You can get a compression fitting or solder.

Are both the showers fed buy a hot& cold that then split?

It's not that difficult once isolated

even for me

[Kentish]

mybrainhurts said:

Kentish said: I'm fairly practical so I'm going to have a go at fitting a shower booster pump.... Have you asked John Prescott if he's going to let you do this dangerous thing....?

Nope! ....and I do all my own electrical work too - so nuts to Mr Prescott!

I understand the reasoning in that gas and electrical installations are potentially a risk to others if they go wrong but how many times have you seen any news headlines saying a neighbourhood was wiped out due to a Frank Spencer incident, probably never!

Thanks for the advice folks, I'll get me hacksaw & blow torch out

[seasider]

Kentish said:

I'll get me hacksaw & blow torch out

Get a pipe cutter that slips over the pipe, as you rotate it cuts into the pipe also leaves a straight chamfered edge

edited to add link
www.tool-up.co.uk/shop/diy/MON268.html?id=E8jt4LBb



>> Edited by seasider on Wednesday 14th September 15:29

[Fluffy]

seasider said:

Get a pipe cutter that slips over the pipe, as you rotate it cuts into the pipe also leaves a straight chamfered edge

Seconded.
Those little doo-dahs make life so much easier.

>> Edited by Fluffy on Wednesday 14th September 15:43

[Ferg]

Take care where you tee into the hot. Make sure it is below the vent i.e. the path the air bubbles take off the top of the cylinder. You might also consider a 'surrey flange' which fits between the top boss of the cylinder and the 1" male fitting to give a branch off which is not affected by other hot draw offs. In fact some manufacturers will invalidate the pump warranty without this method of connection due to the cavitation damage air causes in the pump.

Goes without saying cold MUST be a dedicated supply from the tank....

[warmfuzzies]

I'm with Ferg.

A surrey flange is a MUST......it stops any aeration and will therefore protect you £380 investment, My salamander actually stated this rudimentary type of thing on the install notes and warranty section......

You may also need to think about hot water tank and cold water tank sizes...I've had to put 100gal cold and 150litre hot tanks in just so the warranty is worth something on the pump..

kevin.

[Ferg]

Salamander are a nightmare....they won't even let you put the tank connector and the ballvalve at the same end of the tank....

[seasider]

Ferg said:

warmfuzzies said:

i forgot about the "surrey flange" when i buy a £** or £*** i buy from proper/family plumbers merchant that supplies me with bits and info

[cosmoschick]

Fluffy said:

Do it properly.

Are you *that* practical, Kentish?

Only one way to find out...

Good luck!

[mybrainhurts]

Kentish said:

mybrainhurts said: Kentish said: I'm fairly practical so I'm going to have a go at fitting a shower booster pump.... Have you asked John Prescott if he's going to let you do this dangerous thing....? Nope! ....and I do all my own electrical work too - so nuts to Mr Prescott!

Gasp....I hope you realise Mr Prescott will eat you....

[simpo two]

IMHO it's a good idea to fit top-quality stop valves that will cut off both hot and cold water. I used the lever ball type, serious muthas that won't seize and snap off in 5 years time. That way you only have to drain the hot and cold tanks once.

As for the flange, well, I'm a relative newbie though have done all this once. There are Surrey, Essex, Warix and Salamander - and probably more I didn't discover - so get the one your pump maker recommends.

Oh yes, and did I mention the Axis Digital? So easy, even a Simpo can fit it