Any Rover P6's here
Discussion
If you find a good one they can be just as good as a modern car, even for daily use. I'm on my third now, started off with a '73 2000TC which by chance had been fitted with a power steering conversion by the garage which looked after it for the previous owner, as a daily driver it was wonderful. The only reason I sold it was because a really nice 3500 Auto came along at the right price..... bags of power, very comfortable and it kept up with modern traffic.
I'm on my second 3500 Auto now, I probably paid a bit too much for it (bought from a classic dealer) but it has history with only three previous owners, always the best way to buy one of these cars if you can manage it. It's a bit thirsty but I try not to worry about it, I've had this one a year now and the 'buzz' I get just from looking at it sat on my drive hasn't gone away.
All the outer body panels bolt on to a base unit, which is great for replacing rotten wings etc, the down side is that shiny panels can hide a rusty base unit. Parts wise, just about everything is available too. Make sure you look at plenty of examples as you could easily fall for the first shiny one you see, buy it then a few months down the line it can bite you on the backside!
Here's my 3500... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x38/rugd1022/10...
You'll have three engine sizes to choose from, 2000, 2200 and 3500, most 2000s are tax exempt, they were replaced by the 2200 in late '73 and there aren't that many 2200s about, but they make great daily drivers. Buy the best you can afford and you won't regret it ;o)
I'm on my second 3500 Auto now, I probably paid a bit too much for it (bought from a classic dealer) but it has history with only three previous owners, always the best way to buy one of these cars if you can manage it. It's a bit thirsty but I try not to worry about it, I've had this one a year now and the 'buzz' I get just from looking at it sat on my drive hasn't gone away.
All the outer body panels bolt on to a base unit, which is great for replacing rotten wings etc, the down side is that shiny panels can hide a rusty base unit. Parts wise, just about everything is available too. Make sure you look at plenty of examples as you could easily fall for the first shiny one you see, buy it then a few months down the line it can bite you on the backside!
Here's my 3500... http://i186.photobucket.com/albums/x38/rugd1022/10...
You'll have three engine sizes to choose from, 2000, 2200 and 3500, most 2000s are tax exempt, they were replaced by the 2200 in late '73 and there aren't that many 2200s about, but they make great daily drivers. Buy the best you can afford and you won't regret it ;o)
I ran my 3500S (4 speed manual) as a daily drive it was lovely, took it on a couple of tours too
I was advised by a very knowledgable mate to get one with power steering and having test driven one without I'm very glad I did, the non-PAS have your forearms jogging on a straight road
The V8 engine particularly really benefits from regular oil, oil filter and air filter changes, as with all classics regular servicing and use will be a benefit
The cars are a little slab sided so you can feel sidewinds on exposed roads, quite narrow so easier than you may think in town traffic
4 seater rather than five and no seatbelts to rear as standard, back seats particularly are very comfortable that's where I'd sit the few times my wife drove (front seats are comfortable too)
As said all panels bolt off including roof so it's the shell that needs to have little or no rust, check with the two P6 clubs for info but I remember the boot and bottom of rear wheel arch where it meets the sills are areas I remember for rust
Rover P6 Club - http://www.p6club.com/
P6 Rover Owners Club - http://www.p6roc.co.uk/
The cars do lean a bit on bends and corners but you'll be used to that
Two series on all models
Mine had added electric fan, fuel pump and electronic igniter head which are a good bonus on all classics but not essential (initially at least)
Usual car advice applies - drive as many good examples as you can including a couple out of your budget to see just how good they could be
If you want I have some sale shots of mine I can post if you want - I was a little dissappointed to find the wood door cappings weren't and not all seats were leather but the brushed seats have the advantage of not being cold in winter and red hot in summer
I was advised by a very knowledgable mate to get one with power steering and having test driven one without I'm very glad I did, the non-PAS have your forearms jogging on a straight road
The V8 engine particularly really benefits from regular oil, oil filter and air filter changes, as with all classics regular servicing and use will be a benefit
The cars are a little slab sided so you can feel sidewinds on exposed roads, quite narrow so easier than you may think in town traffic
4 seater rather than five and no seatbelts to rear as standard, back seats particularly are very comfortable that's where I'd sit the few times my wife drove (front seats are comfortable too)
As said all panels bolt off including roof so it's the shell that needs to have little or no rust, check with the two P6 clubs for info but I remember the boot and bottom of rear wheel arch where it meets the sills are areas I remember for rust
Rover P6 Club - http://www.p6club.com/
P6 Rover Owners Club - http://www.p6roc.co.uk/
The cars do lean a bit on bends and corners but you'll be used to that
Two series on all models
Mine had added electric fan, fuel pump and electronic igniter head which are a good bonus on all classics but not essential (initially at least)
Usual car advice applies - drive as many good examples as you can including a couple out of your budget to see just how good they could be
If you want I have some sale shots of mine I can post if you want - I was a little dissappointed to find the wood door cappings weren't and not all seats were leather but the brushed seats have the advantage of not being cold in winter and red hot in summer
Edited by na on Monday 4th April 15:03
Cheers. Couple of random Q's.
-what's the suspension and cornering ability like? Are there any off the shelf upgrades?
-same as above but brakes
-what PCD are the hubs. Are there any options for different rims?
-the 3500S gearbox. Which box is this? Is it an LT-95 like the Range Rovers? If not how does it compare strength wise to something like a LT77?
-what's the suspension and cornering ability like? Are there any off the shelf upgrades?
-same as above but brakes
-what PCD are the hubs. Are there any options for different rims?
-the 3500S gearbox. Which box is this? Is it an LT-95 like the Range Rovers? If not how does it compare strength wise to something like a LT77?
300bhp/ton said:
-what's the suspension and cornering ability like? Are there any off the shelf upgrades?
suspension front and rear is different to usual see the club web site, when new the suspension must have been marvellous, so to me a standard suspension in good condition would possibly be spoilt if upgraded (if such things are available?)cornering is fine you get used to the lean, I managed to pass a big Healey used he stopped using both sides of the road on the bends
300bhp/ton said:
-same as above but brakes
to me again if the brakes are in good condition and fully serviced (change fluid, take up slack) - rear brakes are in board so can be neglected (by idiots?)A very good example of a P6 and you'll not be worring about improvements
300bhp/ton said:
-what PCD are the hubs. Are there any options for different rims?
sorry I don't know300bhp/ton said:
-the 3500S gearbox. Which box is this? Is it an LT-95 like the Range Rovers? If not how does it compare strength wise to something like a LT77?
I think it's the same box as the other manual 2000s(?) so would predate the RRthe 3500S are sought after and in less supply, more choice in the other models or auto V8
I happen to like the RV8 engine (had it in a few cars, missed out so far with RR tho') but I'm sure the owners of the other engine will tell you their benefits
Certainly the Mk2 look the same so all are fabulous to look at, the P6 along with the DS featured in film set in the future and looked nature in them
Just imagine having a DS or P6 when they first came out (and NSU Ro80 as someome reminded me on another thread) years ahead in looks of the other cars as new
I was looking at these for a while, although never got to the test drive stage.
Prices seem all over the place, but the manual 3500's are very expensive. I thought this looked pretty good for the price...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
(expired e-bay auction, fairly straightish, nice colour, manual 2200 for £800)
Prices seem all over the place, but the manual 3500's are very expensive. I thought this looked pretty good for the price...
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&am...
(expired e-bay auction, fairly straightish, nice colour, manual 2200 for £800)
Excellent colour there 
Note on all P6s, the doors should close and fully catch under their own weight and a slight bit of gravity obsolutely no need to slam just let them drop from your grasp, boot lid to is also a push shut not slam - old Rover engeering, lovely
ETA: photo
ETA: I've no idea where that photo came from and today was the first time I've seen it but as it has avery pleasant main subject I wont delete it
Note on all P6s, the doors should close and fully catch under their own weight and a slight bit of gravity obsolutely no need to slam just let them drop from your grasp, boot lid to is also a push shut not slam - old Rover engeering, lovely
ETA: photo
ETA: I've no idea where that photo came from and today was the first time I've seen it but as it has avery pleasant main subject I wont delete it
Edited by na on Saturday 31st March 00:01
Cheers.
Very tempting. Can't decide if I'd be happy with a 2000/2200 and just waft or if I'd want a V8 with a 3.9 swap, some loud pipes and 250hp+. I'm sure the latter wouldn't sit well with some, but it does appeal.
Can anyone tell me a bit more about the 4 cylinder engine. Again I'm rather good with anything post O Series, even A and B Series motors and the old 2.25 from the Landy. But I don't know anything about these. I read somewhere about the pistons having part of the combustion chamber machined into the top of them or something??
Very tempting. Can't decide if I'd be happy with a 2000/2200 and just waft or if I'd want a V8 with a 3.9 swap, some loud pipes and 250hp+. I'm sure the latter wouldn't sit well with some, but it does appeal.
Can anyone tell me a bit more about the 4 cylinder engine. Again I'm rather good with anything post O Series, even A and B Series motors and the old 2.25 from the Landy. But I don't know anything about these. I read somewhere about the pistons having part of the combustion chamber machined into the top of them or something??
just seen you have a smart roadster
a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)
And I was brung up in Wolverton and New 'Brad'ull' so thought I might know the houses in your photo
back on topic - sorry I know little of the 2000s, in fact I usually knew little about the classic I bought, I always wanted a V8 P6 since I was 17 and thought I'd have to win the pools to get one
A friend has a P5 with a TVR 3.9 engine in it but it doesn't make a big difference to the 3.5, however the P5 is a bit heavier than a P6
P5s are at least twice the price of V8 P6s, you'd probably like a P5 but you wont get a good one cheap, twice the price at least remember and you know a popular model of classic that is cheap to buy will be expensive to get right
Edited: to I meant I always wanted a P6 V8
a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)
And I was brung up in Wolverton and New 'Brad'ull' so thought I might know the houses in your photo
back on topic - sorry I know little of the 2000s, in fact I usually knew little about the classic I bought, I always wanted a V8 P6 since I was 17 and thought I'd have to win the pools to get one
A friend has a P5 with a TVR 3.9 engine in it but it doesn't make a big difference to the 3.5, however the P5 is a bit heavier than a P6
P5s are at least twice the price of V8 P6s, you'd probably like a P5 but you wont get a good one cheap, twice the price at least remember and you know a popular model of classic that is cheap to buy will be expensive to get right
Edited: to I meant I always wanted a P6 V8
Edited by na on Tuesday 5th April 19:53
It's not uncommon for pistons to have shaped tops is it? I think it depends on the combustion chamber shape really.
As far as I can tell it's a fairly advanced unit, it was made partly because the old LR unit would not have been suitable. It's overhead cam etc. with about 50bhp/litre (about the going rate really) It's another of those Triumph vs Rover things though, why couldn't the car just use the Triumph straight 6? Pretty much the same power, proven reliable etc etc. Silly.
I have driven a contemporary, 100bhp Triumph 2000 manual and that's fine but I reckon the auto would be a bit slow.
I gather there is some issue with the side plate on them? A few adverts said that this had 'been done' so I gather it's important..?
You need to check the bulkhead, the suspension feeds into this (sort of like an F1 car. Sort of.) so it needs to be solid. Quite clever really, feed the suspension loads into the strongest part of the car.
Great site:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/
As far as I can tell it's a fairly advanced unit, it was made partly because the old LR unit would not have been suitable. It's overhead cam etc. with about 50bhp/litre (about the going rate really) It's another of those Triumph vs Rover things though, why couldn't the car just use the Triumph straight 6? Pretty much the same power, proven reliable etc etc. Silly.
I have driven a contemporary, 100bhp Triumph 2000 manual and that's fine but I reckon the auto would be a bit slow.
I gather there is some issue with the side plate on them? A few adverts said that this had 'been done' so I gather it's important..?
You need to check the bulkhead, the suspension feeds into this (sort of like an F1 car. Sort of.) so it needs to be solid. Quite clever really, feed the suspension loads into the strongest part of the car.
Great site:
http://www.aronline.co.uk/
Quite fancy this for a cheap punt, sure it would be a laugh.
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C208023/
http://www.carandclassic.co.uk/car/C208023/
I think varas may have posted on the wrong thread
na said:
If you want I have some sale shots of mine I can post, if you want -
sorry I should have made it clear that I'm not trying to sell my P6, I sold 5/6 years ago, just offering photos in case you have any questions about what you see in those photosThis is a useful forum. Loads of info and well-informed people if you want lots of detail
http://www.classicroverforum.com/
3500S gearboxes are uprated 2000, so not exactly the same. They are at their limit though
http://www.classicroverforum.com/
3500S gearboxes are uprated 2000, so not exactly the same. They are at their limit though
na said:
just seen you have a smart roadster
a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)
And I was brung up in Wolverton and New 'Brad'ull' so thought I might know the houses in your photo
back on topic - sorry I know little of the 2000s, in fact I usually knew little about the classic I bought, I always wanted a V8 P6 since I was 17 and thought I'd have to win the pools to get one
A friend has a P5 with a TVR 3.9 engine in it but it doesn't make a big difference to the 3.5, however the P5 is a bit heavier than a P6
P5s are at least twice the price of V8 P6s, you'd probably like a P5 but you wont get a good one cheap, twice the price at least remember and you know a popular model of classic that is cheap to buy will be expensive to get right
Edited: to I meant I always wanted a P6 V8
When these were new na, they were supplied with a sticker on the rear windscreen immediately above the petrol filler that denoted the octane rating. This applied to the 3.5 litre saloons and coupes, the 3500 P6 and the 2000TC P6; and the rating was five star or 101 octane.a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)
And I was brung up in Wolverton and New 'Brad'ull' so thought I might know the houses in your photo
back on topic - sorry I know little of the 2000s, in fact I usually knew little about the classic I bought, I always wanted a V8 P6 since I was 17 and thought I'd have to win the pools to get one
A friend has a P5 with a TVR 3.9 engine in it but it doesn't make a big difference to the 3.5, however the P5 is a bit heavier than a P6
P5s are at least twice the price of V8 P6s, you'd probably like a P5 but you wont get a good one cheap, twice the price at least remember and you know a popular model of classic that is cheap to buy will be expensive to get right
Edited: to I meant I always wanted a P6 V8
Edited by na on Tuesday 5th April 19:53
I had numerous 2000 TCs in with burnt out exhaust valves due to running them on lower octanes just to save a few bob. False economy indeed!
With modern fuels and electronic ignition however, you can get them to run very nicely and reliably.
I am sick to death of throwing money for maintenance on modern cars that I use as daily drivers, so I'm considering a classic that will do the same job without the electronic hassle and expense. A 2000 P6 is high on the list; it's just getting something reasonably rust free that is the problem.
To qualify this, my Audi A6 Quattro needs an ABS pump for the next MOT. The pump is perfect, but the control module brings on the light on the dash which is a fail. You have to buy the whole pump, at an utterly outrageous price of £1200!! You can still buy a nice P6 for that!
jith said:
na said:
just seen you have a smart roadster
a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)[/quote
When these were new na, they were supplied with a sticker on the rear windscreen immediately above the petrol filler that denoted the octane rating. This applied to the 3.5 litre saloons and coupes, the 3500 P6 and the 2000TC P6; and the rating was five star or 101 octane.
Sorry jith I didn't make it clear I was talking about the smart roadster needing 97a freind had one and didn't realise it was suppose to run on 97 octane and I don't think they really believed me until they tried some and found it went so much better (I think(?) this applies to the 80 too)[/quote
When these were new na, they were supplied with a sticker on the rear windscreen immediately above the petrol filler that denoted the octane rating. This applied to the 3.5 litre saloons and coupes, the 3500 P6 and the 2000TC P6; and the rating was five star or 101 octane.
I'm just old enough to know about 5* being 100/101
jith said:
To qualify this, my Audi A6 Quattro needs an ABS pump for the next MOT. The pump is perfect, but the control module brings on the light on the dash which is a fail. You have to buy the whole pump, at an utterly outrageous price of £1200!! You can still buy a nice P6 for that!
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