Beating the rust problem
Discussion
I need to de-rust the leaf springs and other bits to the underside of my vintage caravan. The rust is significant but non structural, therefore I am looking at using one of the following products. I understand these products are simply painted on over the rust.
GRANVILLE RUST CONVERTER
KURUST
One is far more expensive than the other, any comments based upon experience welcomed.
GRANVILLE RUST CONVERTER
KURUST
One is far more expensive than the other, any comments based upon experience welcomed.
crankedup said:
I need to de-rust the leaf springs and other bits to the underside of my vintage caravan. The rust is significant but non structural, therefore I am looking at using one of the following products. I understand these products are simply painted on over the rust.
GRANVILLE RUST CONVERTER
KURUST
One is far more expensive than the other, any comments based upon experience welcomed.
The problem with leaf springs cu, is that they are constantly flexing, so most treatments simply flake off.GRANVILLE RUST CONVERTER
KURUST
One is far more expensive than the other, any comments based upon experience welcomed.
The best remedy is to chip off any flakes of rust, then clean the rest off with a wire brush, preferably a rotary on a power tool, then spray with oil. This will work its way between the leafs.
Visit your local ironmonger or mill furnisher and purchase a roll of Syglas tape. Make sure you don't confuse it with SYLGLAS, which is an entirely different product. Syglas is a very, very sticky sackcloth tape that is steeped in heavy grease. You wind it around the full length of the springs and it totally seals them in the grease and prevents corrosion and water ingress. When wound around the springs it becomes self adhesive and is a seriously effective product.
Regards,
J
a8hex said:
In terms of removing rust, I've been amazed at the way the Bilt Hamber product cleans it off.
Another vote for this stuff too from me. The rust remover and the rust converter products both work extremely well, as does the Dynax S50 protection wax.In this circumstance I would get off as much of the loose/flaking rust as poss and then give the whole area a good covering of the rust converter. Follow it up with a slap of decent non-brittle paint (so that's hammerite or POR 15 out, I'd just use normal enamel, and then absolutely drench the springs with Dynazx S50, getting as much as possible in between the leaves.
Gaspode said:
a8hex said:
In terms of removing rust, I've been amazed at the way the Bilt Hamber product cleans it off.
Another vote for this stuff too from me. The rust remover and the rust converter products both work extremely well, as does the Dynax S50 protection wax.In this circumstance I would get off as much of the loose/flaking rust as poss and then give the whole area a good covering of the rust converter. Follow it up with a slap of decent non-brittle paint (so that's hammerite or POR 15 out, I'd just use normal enamel, and then absolutely drench the springs with Dynazx S50, getting as much as possible in between the leaves.
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff