Thinking of buying an MGB - advice please
Discussion
Hi All,
Thinking of buying an MGB GT to keep the Vitesse company. Ok so I'm used to Triumphs & the little niggles you get with classic cars so I know what I'm getting into.
The models I have been looking at are the 1970 - 1974 cars as someone told Me these are the least sought after. Why is that though? Prices seem to reflect this. Looking around £2500 should get Me quite a presentable example. What I'm after is what are they like to own, what are the weak spots, and which parts of the bodywork should I check for rust (apart from the obvious)? What are the big jobs on these cars and generally anything else I should know or look out for before taking the plunge?
Cheers.
Thinking of buying an MGB GT to keep the Vitesse company. Ok so I'm used to Triumphs & the little niggles you get with classic cars so I know what I'm getting into.
The models I have been looking at are the 1970 - 1974 cars as someone told Me these are the least sought after. Why is that though? Prices seem to reflect this. Looking around £2500 should get Me quite a presentable example. What I'm after is what are they like to own, what are the weak spots, and which parts of the bodywork should I check for rust (apart from the obvious)? What are the big jobs on these cars and generally anything else I should know or look out for before taking the plunge?
Cheers.
I'm a bit confused (normal)
You could ask on the MG forum - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a... plus there’s loads of threads on there with info
I’ve no idea about prices but you usually get what you pay for, pre 1973 car I’d thought still attract a small premium for those low mileage owners, rubber bumper models (76-81) used to be the less favoured but not so much now
What to look for, the obvious, an overdrive is very useful, new electric components are marginally better than with Triumph (I know my last car was a Triumph) more parts and suppliers too
Do you want the B as an everyday car?
Do you drive the Vitesse much as with the B if you keep them both the mileage on each could be low and low mileage and lack of regular use can spoilt a classic and make it unreliable
A Spridget would be near to a MX-5
Buy an owners Handbook, now before you even look for a car and you’ll learn a lot about the car for only £8 - http://www9.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgo...
Do your research, always surprises me how few B owners know about the ”donkey’s dick”, but then many Bs even BGTs are show and shine cars, no I’m not going to tell you about it (yet), more research for you
Don’t take this the wrong way but at your age having three cars how much do you use even your existing classic to really know about owning and driving them (as you say you don’t use either the MX-5 or present classic for everyday or winter use)
I’m happy to give you more info, as long as the beer you like is real ale
Oh, and a BGT or better still a Spridget will drive entirely differently to a small (seperate) chassis Triumph
EFS
You could ask on the MG forum - http://www.pistonheads.com/gassing/forum.asp?h=0&a... plus there’s loads of threads on there with info
I’ve no idea about prices but you usually get what you pay for, pre 1973 car I’d thought still attract a small premium for those low mileage owners, rubber bumper models (76-81) used to be the less favoured but not so much now
What to look for, the obvious, an overdrive is very useful, new electric components are marginally better than with Triumph (I know my last car was a Triumph) more parts and suppliers too
Do you want the B as an everyday car?
Do you drive the Vitesse much as with the B if you keep them both the mileage on each could be low and low mileage and lack of regular use can spoilt a classic and make it unreliable
A Spridget would be near to a MX-5
Buy an owners Handbook, now before you even look for a car and you’ll learn a lot about the car for only £8 - http://www9.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgo...
Do your research, always surprises me how few B owners know about the ”donkey’s dick”, but then many Bs even BGTs are show and shine cars, no I’m not going to tell you about it (yet), more research for you
Don’t take this the wrong way but at your age having three cars how much do you use even your existing classic to really know about owning and driving them (as you say you don’t use either the MX-5 or present classic for everyday or winter use)
I’m happy to give you more info, as long as the beer you like is real ale
Oh, and a BGT or better still a Spridget will drive entirely differently to a small (seperate) chassis Triumph
EFS
Edited by SB - Nigel on Wednesday 27th October 17:41
What do you want the car for? If it's more for daily driving duties, go for the latest car you can find, the raised ride height, big bumpers and plusher interior make it a bit of a better proposition.
If you do want one for the weekends, the chrome ones are a better bet. In order, things to look out for are:
1)rust
2)rust
3)rust
4)rust
in that order. All of the mechanicals are very rugged in the later chrome cars, and even if they do break replacements are easily available.
Rust however can be a problem. The MGB is a very early monococque and as a result is a bit overengineered, and has a few rust traps. The main one is the sills, which are IIRC composed of 7 separate pieces, and aren't cheap to get replaced. Also look at the bottom of the windscreen, around the headlamps, and then in all of the usual places.
If you do want one for the weekends, the chrome ones are a better bet. In order, things to look out for are:
1)rust
2)rust
3)rust
4)rust
in that order. All of the mechanicals are very rugged in the later chrome cars, and even if they do break replacements are easily available.
Rust however can be a problem. The MGB is a very early monococque and as a result is a bit overengineered, and has a few rust traps. The main one is the sills, which are IIRC composed of 7 separate pieces, and aren't cheap to get replaced. Also look at the bottom of the windscreen, around the headlamps, and then in all of the usual places.
GTs are a lot cheaper than roadsters
Chrome bumpered cars are a lot more than rubber bumpered cars
1970 - 74 cars have the best performance due to larger valve head
Get one with overdrive
On paper slower than a Vitesse but will handle better
Bodywork is more expensive to repair than mechanicals but all spares are easy - Moss, MGB Hive, Brown and Gammons
Most have been messed about with - so make sure you know what you're buying
Chrome bumpered cars are a lot more than rubber bumpered cars
1970 - 74 cars have the best performance due to larger valve head
Get one with overdrive
On paper slower than a Vitesse but will handle better
Bodywork is more expensive to repair than mechanicals but all spares are easy - Moss, MGB Hive, Brown and Gammons
Most have been messed about with - so make sure you know what you're buying
Thanks for the reply's guys. Basically to answer the questions I might replace the MX5 as I have the Vitesse as a convertible and as I have had the Mazda for 5 years its time for something different....maybe. I won't fit in a Spridget as I'm 6'6"! I know I only use the Mazda & Vitesse as 'second' cars but I make every effort to use them. The MX5 comes to work with Me every Friday as its the only day I can't car share with my mate as we work different hours, in the summer I use the MX5 most days and the Vitesse gets taken out at weekends and will be going to more club meets with Me now that I have parted with my Dolomite. I have always had a Triumph of some sort (Spit/Heralds/Dollys/Vitesse) for the last 13 years, oh and a Mk 2 Cortina 1600E (WHY did I sell it??) so like I said I'm used to owning classics.
Oh and to answer another question, yes I drink Real Ale
Oh and to answer another question, yes I drink Real Ale
I had a 78 MGB GT that me and my Dad restored. I used it when I was 17 along side my Defender 90.
It was bright yellow with black vinyl roof and Webasto sunroof. Mostly stock, some new 14" minilite replica's, sports exhaust and sportier suspension.
I really enjoyed it. It was a lot of fun and IMO very special to drive. OD on 3rd/4th via the gearknob switch was definitely one of my favourite bits.
It wasn't very fast though and reckon it used to do as low as 19mpg. Sounded nice.
Personally I quite like the rubber bumper versions, esp in GT form as they suit the shape and with the black vinyl roof I liked the look of ours.
Pre 73 examples must still carry a premium due to no VED.
The only thing I'd though is. After the MGB I got a Triumph TR7 2.0 FHC, I'm now on my 2nd which I've had since Jan 2001 and has been converted to a TR7 V8 (mid 2001).
In every way the TR7 is better. It feels just as special to drive (although not as snug), has more room, more spacious, better engine, is faster, handles better, stops better and is a lot more tunable.
And in true honesty I even like the looks more. Although the MGB GT does look good, esp the rear 3/4 view.
It was bright yellow with black vinyl roof and Webasto sunroof. Mostly stock, some new 14" minilite replica's, sports exhaust and sportier suspension.
I really enjoyed it. It was a lot of fun and IMO very special to drive. OD on 3rd/4th via the gearknob switch was definitely one of my favourite bits.
It wasn't very fast though and reckon it used to do as low as 19mpg. Sounded nice.
Personally I quite like the rubber bumper versions, esp in GT form as they suit the shape and with the black vinyl roof I liked the look of ours.
Pre 73 examples must still carry a premium due to no VED.
The only thing I'd though is. After the MGB I got a Triumph TR7 2.0 FHC, I'm now on my 2nd which I've had since Jan 2001 and has been converted to a TR7 V8 (mid 2001).
In every way the TR7 is better. It feels just as special to drive (although not as snug), has more room, more spacious, better engine, is faster, handles better, stops better and is a lot more tunable.
And in true honesty I even like the looks more. Although the MGB GT does look good, esp the rear 3/4 view.
OK, my tuppence worth.
1970-74 cars more sought after because of overdrive, 5 bearing engine, chrome bumpers, easy to erect hood (obv not an issue on GTs)
I'm on my second B. I get about 30mpg generally (fairly heavy right foot), but better exhaust and K+N filters make the difference between 25mpg for a normal B and what I normally get.
Engines are generally sound, although the tappets tend to go off the boil.
Rear suspension is pretty bomb proof, apart from the hangers off the bodywork, which rust. Might have to check the bushes is about it.
Front suspension - the kingpins need greased every few hundred miles and quite a lot aren't. Which gives you play in the steering and vibration at speed. But they're cheap to replace. Other than that, the springs and dampers are pretty robust.
Body work - hah! This is where the fun begines. The bonnet and tailgate are usually ok. Everything else will rust. Doors rust at the bottoms and the skins often split just below the wing mirror. Inner wings are expensive to sort and rust at the rears where they meet the scuttle (which also rusts) and the A pillars. The outer frontwings rust at the bottom, behind the front wheels. The rear wings rust from where the chrome strip is riveted in and also from the lower section where it joins the sills. Sills rust, very badly and very seriously. Floorpans also go, but usually because the sills have already gone. Generally if the sills have gone rotten, the chances are the rest of the car is in a pretty bad shape too.
The good news is that virtually every component is available and for not a lot of cash.
MG car club has all sorts of advice, and the MG owners club are very good to offer support and guidance. If you want a car checked out, contact your local MG club and someone will usually be glad to help in return for a few pints.
1970-74 cars more sought after because of overdrive, 5 bearing engine, chrome bumpers, easy to erect hood (obv not an issue on GTs)
I'm on my second B. I get about 30mpg generally (fairly heavy right foot), but better exhaust and K+N filters make the difference between 25mpg for a normal B and what I normally get.
Engines are generally sound, although the tappets tend to go off the boil.
Rear suspension is pretty bomb proof, apart from the hangers off the bodywork, which rust. Might have to check the bushes is about it.
Front suspension - the kingpins need greased every few hundred miles and quite a lot aren't. Which gives you play in the steering and vibration at speed. But they're cheap to replace. Other than that, the springs and dampers are pretty robust.
Body work - hah! This is where the fun begines. The bonnet and tailgate are usually ok. Everything else will rust. Doors rust at the bottoms and the skins often split just below the wing mirror. Inner wings are expensive to sort and rust at the rears where they meet the scuttle (which also rusts) and the A pillars. The outer frontwings rust at the bottom, behind the front wheels. The rear wings rust from where the chrome strip is riveted in and also from the lower section where it joins the sills. Sills rust, very badly and very seriously. Floorpans also go, but usually because the sills have already gone. Generally if the sills have gone rotten, the chances are the rest of the car is in a pretty bad shape too.
The good news is that virtually every component is available and for not a lot of cash.
MG car club has all sorts of advice, and the MG owners club are very good to offer support and guidance. If you want a car checked out, contact your local MG club and someone will usually be glad to help in return for a few pints.
TriumphVitesse said:
yes I drink Real Ale
In that case you're a true gent and will get loads of help from this directionPity you're so tall as a Midget is nearer a MX-5, you'll have loads more room in a B (how'd you fit into a MX-5!)
As you'll see from my profile I'm on my fourth classic MG, my current car is a Midget hence the bias and I had a 1974 BGT about 15 years ago
I'll post loads of info or I can email Word.doc documents if you contact me to or you can cut and paste to save info from here
In the meantime, 27-30 mpg sounds about right to me, greasing but normally not as often as Alfa Pint's car seems to need, buy that owners Handbook for full details
Test drive as many examples as possible, try at least one or two good examples well outside your price range to see how the good the cars should be rather than accepting " they all do / are like that"
Certainly asking knowledgeable people to check out potential purchases is a good idea but I've found a lot of normal club members and owners, especially of Bs mainly roadsters, have limited knowledge of maintaning and frequent use of the cars
The "donkey's dick" enquiry is a reasonable starter test of knowledge of the Bs
Don't be in a rush to buy there are plenty of cars around but some owners thing they have amazing values and you'll looking at the end which could have some very good BGTs and ones that are nothing like described
More info to follow if you want it
SB - Nigel said:
TriumphVitesse said:
yes I drink Real Ale
In that case you're a true gent and will get loads of help from this directionPity you're so tall as a Midget is nearer a MX-5, you'll have loads more room in a B (how'd you fit into a MX-5!)
As you'll see from my profile I'm on my fourth classic MG, my current car is a Midget hence the bias and I had a 1974 BGT about 15 years ago
I'll post loads of info or I can email Word.doc documents if you contact me to or you can cut and paste to save info from here
In the meantime, 27-30 mpg sounds about right to me, greasing but normally not as often as Alfa Pint's car seems to need, buy that owners Handbook for full details
Test drive as many examples as possible, try at least one or two good examples well outside your price range to see how the good the cars should be rather than accepting " they all do / are like that"
Certainly asking knowledgeable people to check out potential purchases is a good idea but I've found a lot of normal club members and owners, especially of Bs mainly roadsters, have limited knowledge of maintaning and frequent use of the cars
The "donkey's dick" enquiry is a reasonable starter test of knowledge of the Bs
Don't be in a rush to buy there are plenty of cars around but some owners thing they have amazing values and you'll looking at the end which could have some very good BGTs and ones that are nothing like described
More info to follow if you want it
I will do what you say ie drive as many as I can and certainly try one of the best to get a feel of what they should be like!
Once again thanks for the info/advice.....now then, which drinking hovel is it this weekend...
A B offers a more modern drive compared to period Triumphs (tractors!).
The V8 is a riot but the 1.8 is your gentle cruiser. Quick enough to come along in daily traffic: 950 kgs and 90 brake.
Racers have 165 brake on tap, so there seems to be enough to play with.
I'd slightly lower my B and modern up the ignition. I'm not so keen on spokes (dirt is hell). I love the Sebring look and the covered head lights.
The V8 is a riot but the 1.8 is your gentle cruiser. Quick enough to come along in daily traffic: 950 kgs and 90 brake.
Racers have 165 brake on tap, so there seems to be enough to play with.
I'd slightly lower my B and modern up the ignition. I'm not so keen on spokes (dirt is hell). I love the Sebring look and the covered head lights.
Dinkel 90 bhp if your lucky at the flywheel but it doesn't matter it's just figures it's about how it feels and they feel ok in modern traffic and good for touring and cruising and fun on a B road
Tony yours is a good looking car and that's a nice photo
I think OP has gone off to contemplate the matter
Tony yours is a good looking car and that's a nice photo
I think OP has gone off to contemplate the matter
Fiscracer said:
GTs are a lot cheaper than roadsters
Chrome bumpered cars are a lot more than rubber bumpered cars
1970 - 74 cars have the best performance due to larger valve head
Get one with overdrive
On paper slower than a Vitesse but will handle better
Bodywork is more expensive to repair than mechanicals but all spares are easy - Moss, MGB Hive, Brown and Gammons
Most have been messed about with - so make sure you know what you're buying
What he said!Chrome bumpered cars are a lot more than rubber bumpered cars
1970 - 74 cars have the best performance due to larger valve head
Get one with overdrive
On paper slower than a Vitesse but will handle better
Bodywork is more expensive to repair than mechanicals but all spares are easy - Moss, MGB Hive, Brown and Gammons
Most have been messed about with - so make sure you know what you're buying
There is a good support network of specialists in the North of England for these cars. I have no problem getting spares or specialist help locally. If you want a list of recommendations I would be happy to provide. Although most of them also do Triumph bits so you might have come across them already.
I use mine daily for a month and then lock it up for a month and repeat the process all year (for about the last 8 years), it rarely misses a beat and with a few mods to the brakes (like a servo for starters) it is quite capable in amongst modern traffic, I even use it for travelling down south quite regularly, but might have to invest in some decent sound proofing as 10 hours on motorways can be a bit deafening.
If you have wire wheels, getting tyres can be a pain as the original size is obsolete and I have heard every tale under the sun as to why modern tyres and inner tubes / wire wheels are incompatible, mostly utter c
p, but someone must know what the score is. Also had trouble getting them balanced properly, see the MBG Technical BBS threads:http://www2.mgcars.org.uk/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=mgb...
No idea why the 70-74's are considered to be worth less, personally I think they are the best of the bunch value for money wise, this is my second so I am biased, the earlier pre 70's cars always had a premium price and the Rubber Bumper ones used to be worth peanuts. The 70-74 cars look better unmolested and a lot of them haven't, unlike the RB ones I see.
dinkel said:
A B offers a more modern drive compared to period Triumphs (tractors!).
Hmmn, an MGB 1800 complete with cutting edge B series engine coupled to a cart axle controlled by lever arm suspension. Oh yes, very modern and sophisticated when compared to Triumph's independent suspension with inline six.
SB - Nigel said:
Having actually owned a Triumph with seprate chassis and six cylinder engine and a BGT and B roadster (runner bumper at that) and actually regularly used all three - in my personal opinion the Bs are better riding amd handling
GT6 and TR6 are quite different though aren't they?
I give warts and all on all the cars I'ved owned (I've even had problems with one of the most reliable cars made)
OP has Vitesse same chassis as GT6, Matt you were the first to mention TR6
I've always fancied a TR6 but ownig a GT6 put me off, I've never driven a TR6, are you going to offer Matt
The postings could have stopped ages ago as OP put:-
ETA: just remembered OP want to spend around £2,500 so TR6 is out
I think we all know he best to stick with his Vitesse and MX-5 (or swap his MX-5 for another)
OP has Vitesse same chassis as GT6, Matt you were the first to mention TR6
I've always fancied a TR6 but ownig a GT6 put me off, I've never driven a TR6, are you going to offer Matt
The postings could have stopped ages ago as OP put:-
TriumphVitesse said:
Brilliant, thanks for all the info and if I need more I will be in touch.
I continue for the sake of others who may be thinking of buying a BGT, if I think something is going to be contentious I usually put in my opionionETA: just remembered OP want to spend around £2,500 so TR6 is out
I think we all know he best to stick with his Vitesse and MX-5 (or swap his MX-5 for another)
Edited by SB - Nigel on Monday 1st November 15:11
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