Storing my car over winter

[Travis Mcgee]

Hi. I am Sorning my 94 M3 at the end of this month, until March next year. Any do's or dont's regarding laying the car up for a few months. Should I leave battery connected? Should it be started up weekly, monthly? All advice gratefully received. Car will be in a dry, fairly draft proof brick garage.
Cheers. Mark

[Pat H]

Best to keep it T&T and to give it a gentle run every two or three weeks when the roads are dry.

If I lay up a car, I tend to disconnect the battery to stop it from gradually discharging.

Also blow the tyres up to 40psi.

Keep windows and sunroof closed to stop rodents from getting in and eating your seats. It happened to me and it was not funny.

WD40 is your friend.

Cars like to be used.

I use my Esprit very little, but I always try to give it a run every month to stop it seizing up.

[lowdrag]

Not sure about the electronics on an M3 (not my scene) but worth making sure that disconnecting the battery for a period won't screw things up. I assume you have the radio code to hand for when you reconnect it as well. If no problems then disconnect the battery so it won't discharge and degrade. I've seen too many people complaining that batteries don't last but then they don't take care of them. As above for the tyres to avoid flat spots, also the making sure the car is as rodent tight as possible. If the garage is a standard brick one then make sure there are good air bricks and enough of an air current otherwise condensation can wreak havoc. The chromework could do with a film of 3in1 or such or a damn good waxing. WD40 is fine but evaporates.

[AndrewW-G]

Wax it, get an battery charger/conditioner if the garage has power (no need to mess about with radio codes, ecu resets etc)leave a tray on the floor with a desicant on it, over inflate the tyres slightly (leaving a note on the steering wheel to drop the pressure prior to driving)

[chard]

Use a battery conditioner, pump up tyres, oil bright work as recomended, I would also leave a window open a crack to provide some air circulation inside. If you do run the car (not a bad idea) get it properly warm and take it for a 1/2 hour run or you may be doing more harm than good. If you are running the car every month you dont have to worry too much about flat spots on tyres.

[Stitch]

And leave the hand brake off to reduce risk of pads sticking to the discs

[RW774]

Do not to pump up the tyres but put the car away on axle stands, take the wheels off and let the tyres down. Then place the wheels and tyres away from the ground, wrapped up in black bin liners to prevent sunlight exposure.This will slow down the degeneration.Put them on a shelf/ or pallet, in the dry and in the dark

[RedexR]

I think it makes a lot of difference in how dry or damp the garage is with some of these matters , if the garage is adjoined to the house it makes a huge difference. Pads should not stick to brake discs in a reasonably dry garage but they certainly did in my last one which was modern but in a seperate block of garages , also some types of trim conditioner will actually enhance mould residue , too much in a damp environment will do this. A battery conditioner is a good investment to stop discharge and will keep everything live and personally if its not too much hassle take most of the weight off the suspension with axle stands , which also is a good idea from a security point of view as well , removing wheels can be a bit difficult if you are tight to a garage wall. If you can spray the brake lines with WD40 or similar , these are the first things to suffer from any corrosive residues. Lastly always check for cats before closing the garage door , curiosity always gets the better of them and if you lock them in they may well knock things off shelves onto your motor and the owner will be traumatised thinking they have been the victim of a passing car.

[lowdrag]

I've taken the decision, despite my cars being garaged in wooden garages that don't sweat, to buy a Carcoon to keep the C-type in good nick this winter. If any of you have experience of them be glad to here your opinions.

[AndrewW-G]

lowdrag said:

I've taken the decision, despite my cars being garaged in wooden garages that don't sweat, to buy a Carcoon to keep the C-type in good nick this winter. If any of you have experience of them be glad to here your opinions.

Of the ones I've used (we store a few cars for customers) the easiest and most durable have been the ones with frames, I'd also strongly suggest putting on a normal indoor car cover for protection as the plastic and fastners used IMHO are a tad risky to the paint work (maybe I'm being fussy as most of the cars dont belong to me )

[Fleckers]

When storing I always do

minimum petrol
Oil change
rad flush and anti freeze change
wash and polish
park the car
up on axle standsno brakes applied
put on car cover if outside

then weekly just spin the wheels 180 and check car for damp inside and keepcover off for aslong as possible on a dry day

This has always worked for me, when storing inside garage or on a drive way

[lowdrag]

Measured the C-type today and need a BIG carcoon - over five metres since the car is 4.95 long. They were most helpful and it should arrive in the near future. Thanks for the advice Andrew.

[Mrs Muttleysnoop]

We always lay our car up for winter, leaving a window open a tiny amount, use a battery conditioner and also use a dehumidifier.

[RedexR]

A friend of mine used a Carcoon for a while , he doesn't need to any more mainly due to the fact that he emigrated to Oz , taking three Classics with him (never one to do things by halves lol). He did say they were ok but had some niggles , I will keep you posted on what they were when I next speak to him.

Edited by RedexR on Tuesday 24th November 18:55