DRY ICE BLASTING vs CHEMICAL DIPPING vs SHOT BLASTING
Discussion
Has anybody got any experience/costings/recommendations re dry ice blasting which seems to have most of the advantages of blasting and avoids almost all the (potential) complications of blasting or acid dipping?
Would be interested as am not convinced about the SPL dipping method as have heard a good few scare stories from some very experienced vintage restorers.
Would be interested as am not convinced about the SPL dipping method as have heard a good few scare stories from some very experienced vintage restorers.
Pricewise dipping,
I enquired at SPL for a BMW 2002 to be dipped:
850+vat for strip dip
850+vat for zinc passive primer stuff
most people drag car away to get metal work done, and then come back to repeat above processes at halfprice.
so: (850+850+425+425)+vat = total
erm.. does that make any sense?
I enquired at SPL for a BMW 2002 to be dipped:
850+vat for strip dip
850+vat for zinc passive primer stuff
most people drag car away to get metal work done, and then come back to repeat above processes at halfprice.
so: (850+850+425+425)+vat = total
erm.. does that make any sense?
These comments are not aimed specifically at SPL but companies offering similar methods. Some classic restorers have commented that particularly with spot welds and bottom sills (at the seams) the stripping acid gets in by capillary action and is virtually impossible to get rid of by the neutralising agent.
I also just glanced through the latest Practical Classics magazine which co-incidentally had featured SPL as part of an ongoing restoration project and the article described the neutralisation process is manual spraying rather than dipping (which I had thought was the method)giving even more chance of acid remaining. 2 of the restorers had seen rust forming within 6 months of painting. The Practical Classics article went on to say that their Jaguar chassis showed no sign of rust 12 months on from the first stripping.....Another restorer reckons their car was dropped at some stage during the process as the chassis came back it teensy weensy bit bent but then again, that can happen anywhere.
Just not convinced as of yet.
I also just glanced through the latest Practical Classics magazine which co-incidentally had featured SPL as part of an ongoing restoration project and the article described the neutralisation process is manual spraying rather than dipping (which I had thought was the method)giving even more chance of acid remaining. 2 of the restorers had seen rust forming within 6 months of painting. The Practical Classics article went on to say that their Jaguar chassis showed no sign of rust 12 months on from the first stripping.....Another restorer reckons their car was dropped at some stage during the process as the chassis came back it teensy weensy bit bent but then again, that can happen anywhere.
Just not convinced as of yet.
Put it this way, i will be using SPL again for an entire opel Manta GTE coupe shell and doors at some point.
As for the rust thing, its all in the prep for top coat, you need to prep well and assume its going to try to rust, LOTS of capiliary cavity wax, a Bilthamber wax or dinitrol, NOT waxoyl, it dries after a while a cracks away from the panel. You also need to re-do the wax after a while to make sure.
Remember, NOTHING is forever,you can delay its end date but it will have one. hopefully if you do a good enough job its end date will be after yours.
As for the rust thing, its all in the prep for top coat, you need to prep well and assume its going to try to rust, LOTS of capiliary cavity wax, a Bilthamber wax or dinitrol, NOT waxoyl, it dries after a while a cracks away from the panel. You also need to re-do the wax after a while to make sure.
Remember, NOTHING is forever,you can delay its end date but it will have one. hopefully if you do a good enough job its end date will be after yours.
Take a look at this interesting blog for info on soda blasting. http://sterlingauto.blogspot.com/ scroll down to the "soda anyone" blog.
vpr said:
Had one of my cars dipped and the car came back looking like it'd been used for banger racing. Every panel was dented...some huge.
Showing signs of rusting between joints after getting wet once.
Where was it dipped ? Were the dents there before but full of filler ? One mint looking panels came back looking rough the last time i used spl but I had always thought that wing had had a knock at some time so was not surprised.Showing signs of rusting between joints after getting wet once.
Getragdogleg said:
vpr said:
Had one of my cars dipped and the car came back looking like it'd been used for banger racing. Every panel was dented...some huge.
Showing signs of rusting between joints after getting wet once.
Where was it dipped ? Were the dents there before but full of filler ? One mint looking panels came back looking rough the last time i used spl but I had always thought that wing had had a knock at some time so was not surprised.Showing signs of rusting between joints after getting wet once.
Hmmm, Thats quite poor on their part.
All the small bits i have had processes have been mint/
A friend had his shell done and it came back with a few small dents but nothing serious, its a process that involves handling the shell a lot and they are fragile but when I do the whole shell i will be stipulating utter care must be taken and will moan like hell if its not.
All the small bits i have had processes have been mint/
A friend had his shell done and it came back with a few small dents but nothing serious, its a process that involves handling the shell a lot and they are fragile but when I do the whole shell i will be stipulating utter care must be taken and will moan like hell if its not.
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