Sunbeam Alpine
Discussion
Hi,
I had one of these in the 1970s.
As I recall, the live supply to the LT side of the coil simply loops thru an inductive pickup on the rear of the tacho. If the engine runs OK at all times, its more likely to be a fault in the tacho itself or the 12v supply that powers it (or a grounding problem). Check out all wiring, if that's OK, you can probably get the tacho reconditioned for not a great deal of money from these people..
http://www.speedycables.com/contact.html
I had one of these in the 1970s.
As I recall, the live supply to the LT side of the coil simply loops thru an inductive pickup on the rear of the tacho. If the engine runs OK at all times, its more likely to be a fault in the tacho itself or the 12v supply that powers it (or a grounding problem). Check out all wiring, if that's OK, you can probably get the tacho reconditioned for not a great deal of money from these people..
http://www.speedycables.com/contact.html
Its a converted GT. A few smallish jobs on it to keep me busy around the interior.
I'm taking it to a local body shop on Thursday, just to put my mind @ rest re the integrity of the resto (sill strength etc)
The car hasn't been advertised I just know the owner so he's giving me the opportunity to assess the car @ my lesiure and then either send a cheque or return the car. A perfect arrangment. White/black trim minilite alloys and very very pretty (from 20 feet)
I'm taking it to a local body shop on Thursday, just to put my mind @ rest re the integrity of the resto (sill strength etc)
The car hasn't been advertised I just know the owner so he's giving me the opportunity to assess the car @ my lesiure and then either send a cheque or return the car. A perfect arrangment. White/black trim minilite alloys and very very pretty (from 20 feet)
Any chance of some photos?
Mine was originally a non-overdrive roadster. I converted the gearbox to accept an overdrive, but kept the higher CWP. That made it really high geared for motorway cruising which was great for economy as I did a lot of commuting from Bath to Kent in those days. I also had a Series 2 when I was a student
I often toy with the idea of getting another to play with.
Best of luck with it if you go ahead.
Paul.
Mine was originally a non-overdrive roadster. I converted the gearbox to accept an overdrive, but kept the higher CWP. That made it really high geared for motorway cruising which was great for economy as I did a lot of commuting from Bath to Kent in those days. I also had a Series 2 when I was a student
I often toy with the idea of getting another to play with.
Best of luck with it if you go ahead.
Paul.
Edited by B16 RFF on Wednesday 15th July 18:29
Buggerit didn't work.
Try this from an auction the car went through a month ago.
http://www.classic-auctions.com/lotdetail.php?loti...
Chard
Try this from an auction the car went through a month ago.
http://www.classic-auctions.com/lotdetail.php?loti...
Chard
chard said:
Its a converted GT. A few smallish jobs on it to keep me busy around the interior.
I'm taking it to a local body shop on Thursday, just to put my mind @ rest re the integrity of the resto (sill strength etc)
The car hasn't been advertised I just know the owner so he's giving me the opportunity to assess the car @ my lesiure and then either send a cheque or return the car. A perfect arrangment. White/black trim minilite alloys and very very pretty (from 20 feet)
As a Tiger owner I thought it worth mentioning that it is a good idea if the body shop are familiar with Alpine/Tigers as the structure is more complicated than is obvious to the untrained eye (hence why the shells are expensive to repair properly) otherwise rot can be missed by someone unfamiliar with the cars. HTHI'm taking it to a local body shop on Thursday, just to put my mind @ rest re the integrity of the resto (sill strength etc)
The car hasn't been advertised I just know the owner so he's giving me the opportunity to assess the car @ my lesiure and then either send a cheque or return the car. A perfect arrangment. White/black trim minilite alloys and very very pretty (from 20 feet)
We (well I persuaded my wife to pay for it originally!)have had (since)1985 a 1967 S V 1725 GT to which I fitted a hood kit- so it doesn't fold away neatly like the originals, it is like a TR2/3 or Frogeye - with separate frame, but it works ok & doesn't come apart at 85! Car is an o/d model & cruises on the Autoroute limit very happily. It is a great touring car...big boot,good brakes,an alternator, good range & (if you like that sort of thing) - a real head turner! And the seats are good. My car has only done 35000 miles, has never had any welding & drives like a new car!
Weak points are not serious - a typical non Ford 1960's heater, bit thirsty (26/8 mpg) (I run on unleaded with Valvemaster plus) but as it has an alloy head many owners run on Optimax or similar without problem. Tacho problem is common (mine has it) & one day I'll get around to checking the wiring as suggested. Starting was spluttery until I put on an electronic ign unit I had in the garage! Steering at parking speed is heavy, but lightens up at speed.
A really good touring car, not a hot-shoe sports car, but sophisticated, fun and pretty. We don't use it enough, as I have an S2 944 cabrio which is a bit more modern and only 20 years old!
Weak points are not serious - a typical non Ford 1960's heater, bit thirsty (26/8 mpg) (I run on unleaded with Valvemaster plus) but as it has an alloy head many owners run on Optimax or similar without problem. Tacho problem is common (mine has it) & one day I'll get around to checking the wiring as suggested. Starting was spluttery until I put on an electronic ign unit I had in the garage! Steering at parking speed is heavy, but lightens up at speed.
A really good touring car, not a hot-shoe sports car, but sophisticated, fun and pretty. We don't use it enough, as I have an S2 944 cabrio which is a bit more modern and only 20 years old!
Good choice of cars.
I've had two over the years, a Series 4 GT complete (with steel hard top) and a Series 5 GT (with soft top added).
The series 4 was fitted with the 1725 engine from a series 5.
Can't comment on the tacho but I probably wouldn't be toooo concerned. Rust can be infinitely more expensive. As someone said earlier, get it checked out by someone who understand the construction of the car. They are not normal(!).
I used regular unleaded with mine without any problems. It ran fine, nice and clean etc.If I had one now, I would try Optimax as someone had suggested just to see the diffence.
The series 5 I never got to drive unfortunately - lovely cars and expect I'll get another one day.
There always seems to be alot of rivalry between MG and Sunbeam owners. Sunbeams always win in my opinion purely as there are so few about!
I've had two over the years, a Series 4 GT complete (with steel hard top) and a Series 5 GT (with soft top added).
The series 4 was fitted with the 1725 engine from a series 5.
Can't comment on the tacho but I probably wouldn't be toooo concerned. Rust can be infinitely more expensive. As someone said earlier, get it checked out by someone who understand the construction of the car. They are not normal(!).
I used regular unleaded with mine without any problems. It ran fine, nice and clean etc.If I had one now, I would try Optimax as someone had suggested just to see the diffence.
The series 5 I never got to drive unfortunately - lovely cars and expect I'll get another one day.
There always seems to be alot of rivalry between MG and Sunbeam owners. Sunbeams always win in my opinion purely as there are so few about!
I've had MG's but the sunbeam is a real head turner. I'm coming to understand that the tacho is a common problem. I don't really need it. However my dash has an ammeter shaped hole with a blanking plate (the ammeter was an option apparantly) So I may get round to fitting a small aftermarket one in the hole.
I won't do this untill I've re-veneered the dash in my winter fettle.
No hurry for this however as I have a raft of other niggles to sort out 1st.
I think I will try shell optimax, I do have a couple of running problems so will be setting up the ignition correctly and then try a bottle of reddex in the tank.
I won't do this untill I've re-veneered the dash in my winter fettle.
No hurry for this however as I have a raft of other niggles to sort out 1st.
I think I will try shell optimax, I do have a couple of running problems so will be setting up the ignition correctly and then try a bottle of reddex in the tank.
Sounds as if you bought the car! A couple of things to check on the set up.
Make sure the carb link is working ok. The link between the carbs is a plasic one on mine & can get sloppy (one carb "comes on" before the other! Also Stromberg diaphragms can wear (I cahanged mine when we bought the car so they are now older than the originals!) The grommet where the throttle arm goes throgh the bulkhead wears & lets the link wobble about - that fooled me for years & it was only fumes getting it the car that alerted me. My exhaust bangs where it goes thrugh the "chassis" & that is proving hard to fix permanently. The SAOC website is full of good advice, if a bit difficult to navigate I find. Despite living 10 miles from Warwick I won't be at the annual bash as we are away, pity!
Good luk with the car.
Make sure the carb link is working ok. The link between the carbs is a plasic one on mine & can get sloppy (one carb "comes on" before the other! Also Stromberg diaphragms can wear (I cahanged mine when we bought the car so they are now older than the originals!) The grommet where the throttle arm goes throgh the bulkhead wears & lets the link wobble about - that fooled me for years & it was only fumes getting it the car that alerted me. My exhaust bangs where it goes thrugh the "chassis" & that is proving hard to fix permanently. The SAOC website is full of good advice, if a bit difficult to navigate I find. Despite living 10 miles from Warwick I won't be at the annual bash as we are away, pity!
Good luk with the car.
I'm fairly sure it was the clock that was optional, and was the second instrument from the left when fitted.
Paul
PS You might find this useful, even if you have already bought it.
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-...
Paul
PS You might find this useful, even if you have already bought it.
http://www.team.net/www/rootes/sunbeam/alpine/mk1-...
Edited by B16 RFF on Saturday 18th July 15:13
Gassing Station | Classic Cars and Yesterday's Heroes | Top of Page | What's New | My Stuff