e type purchasing advice

[eburacum]

Any info on what to look out for in buying a V12 e type 2+2 1970's onwards would be appreciated.

[Myobb]

This request should be directed to the Jaguar section of Pistonheads. Alternatively look in Archives since the subject has been dealt with previously.

[lowdrag]

No, the question belongs here because the Jaguar forum is mostly for modern cars, not classics. The engines, if they have been looked after, are unbreakable but that all depends on whether the level of antifreeze has been kept up to scratch. Alloy corrodes without it and the engine will need a rebuild and that isn't cheap. Then, as usual, the bodywork rots like hell if it isn't looked after. Get an expert from the Jaguar Drivers Club or Jagaur Enthusiasts Club to give it a once over. Well worth the money. Be prepared (if manual) for fuel consumption of about 14mpg at best. You can improve it by putting in an XJ Series 1 overdrive box and adding a 2.88 rear axle and then on a good run you'll not be far from 20mpg.

[RW774]

We built a clients V12 with a 5 speed, various suspension mods and diff overhaul, he is now achieveing 25 on a run. The SU mod offered by Burlens would improve it further as well as a decent ignition system. These cars were built mainly for the American market so handling was always soggy and most were with slush boxes. But, there is so much more room for improvement.
Good luck with the purchase, buy a manual and check the body thoroughly for rot, engines are pretty un burstable as Lowdrag says, but short runs tends to bore wash giving rise to bore wear/ smoke.

[billm]

Buying an etype can be a load of trouble ( for trouble read £££££) unless you know what you are doing - I know I have one.

I would suggest asking the question on these specific etype forums. You will get a wealth of good info there.

http://etypeuk.com/forum/index.php?sid=91b9bf178b0...

http://forums.jag-lovers.org/index.php3?zx=SdAHzxP...

[fareaster]

I've had a V12 E type for the last 20 years, as Lowdrag says the bodies rot. Trouble spots include bonnet pivot beam, inner/outer sills and rear radius arm pick-up points. Check also the integrity of the front frame, has it been damaged from a front end collision or by jacking it up in the wrong place.
If I were to do it again I would go for an auto, they're usually significantly cheaper and you can use the money saved to drop in a 5 speed ZF manual from an XJS.