Anyone know anything about MG TC
Discussion
Morning DBSV8, I have rebuilt one of these cars for a client, so will endeavour to give you some information. Starting with the mechanicals. the engine is the vey tunable Xpag 1250 cc motor,shod on two tiny SUs but robust enough to have a blower fitted. However, coolant issues do occur , cracked heads, silted blocks etc. The back of the crank has a scroll ground which is drives the engine oil back into the sump, but leaks when on a gradient. Because MG exported vast numbers to the States the spares issue is brilliant with just about everything available.Gearbox is a morris derived unit and quite robust, but there are companies offering 5 speed conversions based on the type 9 ford box.Brakes are a simply single circuit, single leading shoe arrangement, but important to have drums skimmed if there is an issue. Generally when set up they work very well, if soft linings area used.
However, it is important to make sure the linkage at the pedal is in good shape. Any amount of free play could result in the pushrod dropping out of the master cylinder with total brake loss.
Steering box worm and pegs are available from Andy King MG parts. We overhauled our customers box and it transformed it. Keep regular checks on the drag links and track rods these are critical. Any hint of excess slack will result in total steering failure. Check the oil in the steering box too( EP 140 I believe.
Suspension is via lever arm dampers, again we overhailed these ourselves and using the correct oil made huge differences.The vertical links are rubber mounted and tend to be destroyed quickly with good use, easy enough to do though.King pins fail mainly due to lack of grease.Attend every week.
These cars often have never had springs but they too transform the car, readily available. Grease the shackles too
Wheels tend to eat the splined centres so check these often, wire wheel hubs are available as are wheel bearings and there are compaanies around to rebuild the wheels , MWS etc.
Diffs will leak out of the orrible leather half shaft oil seal. Expect to attend to every year, so run slightly less oil in the diff and it should help reduce the problem. The oil contaminates the back brakes
Electrics are robust, but headlights are less than useless at night.Make sure the loom is in good shape especially at the back of the car. There is no fuel gauge , just a light which is not reliable enough, so carry a long cane to check the fuel. They should do around 25/30 mpg.
Instruments are chronometric, the rev counter is cable driven from the back of the dynamo and very unreliable. Both are expensive to overhaul, dual oil and temp gauge should be fine , capilliary from the temp, but check the flexi oil pipe often, they fail and you lose your engine. Amp gauge is bullit proof.
Hope this helps, if you need any more info email me.
However, it is important to make sure the linkage at the pedal is in good shape. Any amount of free play could result in the pushrod dropping out of the master cylinder with total brake loss.
Steering box worm and pegs are available from Andy King MG parts. We overhauled our customers box and it transformed it. Keep regular checks on the drag links and track rods these are critical. Any hint of excess slack will result in total steering failure. Check the oil in the steering box too( EP 140 I believe.
Suspension is via lever arm dampers, again we overhailed these ourselves and using the correct oil made huge differences.The vertical links are rubber mounted and tend to be destroyed quickly with good use, easy enough to do though.King pins fail mainly due to lack of grease.Attend every week.
These cars often have never had springs but they too transform the car, readily available. Grease the shackles too
Wheels tend to eat the splined centres so check these often, wire wheel hubs are available as are wheel bearings and there are compaanies around to rebuild the wheels , MWS etc.
Diffs will leak out of the orrible leather half shaft oil seal. Expect to attend to every year, so run slightly less oil in the diff and it should help reduce the problem. The oil contaminates the back brakes
Electrics are robust, but headlights are less than useless at night.Make sure the loom is in good shape especially at the back of the car. There is no fuel gauge , just a light which is not reliable enough, so carry a long cane to check the fuel. They should do around 25/30 mpg.
Instruments are chronometric, the rev counter is cable driven from the back of the dynamo and very unreliable. Both are expensive to overhaul, dual oil and temp gauge should be fine , capilliary from the temp, but check the flexi oil pipe often, they fail and you lose your engine. Amp gauge is bullit proof.
Hope this helps, if you need any more info email me.
RW774 said:
Whoops, they are very reliable and when correctly set up, you could use one as everyday transport. Our client used his for 5 years between april and september. Should be brilliant to drive and handle very well, much better than you would think for what is a pre war design.
Thanks a lot for the info , Wife is Pressurising me to swap the Lotus and these look very attractive alternatives.my father raced one back in the 70's with a supercharger on it, did fairly well in it, think it was even featured in road and track at one point, have to dig it out.
Once my brother and I were born he converted it into a 4 seater and it was used as a high days and holidays car, great memories
Once my brother and I were born he converted it into a 4 seater and it was used as a high days and holidays car, great memories
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