Gunson "WheelTrue" anyone got one ?
Discussion
Product is used for static wheel alignment, looks like two angles that strap to the front wheels with bungys and you then measure distance across to determine tow in - tow out.
Think it dates from early 1970s.
I've just aquired one that is boxed but no instructions, anyone out there got an instruction leaflet that they could copy for me for a small consideration ??
Thanks
DH
Think it dates from early 1970s.
I've just aquired one that is boxed but no instructions, anyone out there got an instruction leaflet that they could copy for me for a small consideration ??
Thanks
DH
Hi,
That sounds like something I have, although I can't remember if it's made by Gunson because I've no box and I've had it for years. Although it might look like junk it can be very accurate, it just depends on attention to detail. I no longer have any printed instructions but I can tell you how I use it.
Firstly, you need a flat, level area to work on and then settle the car on it's suspension by rolling it back & forwards a few times, ending with going forwards. If your car needs a driver in place to get the correct settings, now's the time to enlist the missus.
On my set there are small lugs on the angles which locate on the wheelrim itself, the rest of the angle rests on the tyre. I've taped these to stop scratches because you need to make sure it's very firmly fixed to the wheel. I also replaced the original rubber bands with more elastic luggage rack bungees - the original rubber bands are ok for narrow tyres but hard work on 225 series.
Then I just use 2 identical extendable rules for measuring. If you look closely at the angles there are small slots at either end where you can clip the rule in place. Slide them under the car and it's very simple to measure the toe-in/out in millimetres against the opposite angle. If any adjustment is needed I try to equalise it on both track rods, remove the angles, roll the car again and repeat at a different position on the wheel. (mark with chalk on the tyre where you measure)
Generally it takes me around 15-20 minutes of fiddling to set up either front or rear tracking. Is it accurate ? certainly. The last time I did my Elise I had it checked at MoT time as I'd just replaced all the tyres as well. The comment was "spot on, didn't need to do anything - how did you get that then ?"
brian
That sounds like something I have, although I can't remember if it's made by Gunson because I've no box and I've had it for years. Although it might look like junk it can be very accurate, it just depends on attention to detail. I no longer have any printed instructions but I can tell you how I use it.
Firstly, you need a flat, level area to work on and then settle the car on it's suspension by rolling it back & forwards a few times, ending with going forwards. If your car needs a driver in place to get the correct settings, now's the time to enlist the missus.
On my set there are small lugs on the angles which locate on the wheelrim itself, the rest of the angle rests on the tyre. I've taped these to stop scratches because you need to make sure it's very firmly fixed to the wheel. I also replaced the original rubber bands with more elastic luggage rack bungees - the original rubber bands are ok for narrow tyres but hard work on 225 series.
Then I just use 2 identical extendable rules for measuring. If you look closely at the angles there are small slots at either end where you can clip the rule in place. Slide them under the car and it's very simple to measure the toe-in/out in millimetres against the opposite angle. If any adjustment is needed I try to equalise it on both track rods, remove the angles, roll the car again and repeat at a different position on the wheel. (mark with chalk on the tyre where you measure)
Generally it takes me around 15-20 minutes of fiddling to set up either front or rear tracking. Is it accurate ? certainly. The last time I did my Elise I had it checked at MoT time as I'd just replaced all the tyres as well. The comment was "spot on, didn't need to do anything - how did you get that then ?"
brian
Thanks Brian, that's all clear now. The bit I couldn't work out was the steel rule. Those little slots make sense now. All my steel rules are the modern type which are much wider so I didn't twig that. I remember now that years ago steel rules were much narrower - I'll find a matching pair that fit.
I guess it's worth spinning the wheels to make 100% sure they are true (steel wheels) as any rim damage or kerbing is going to throw the measurement out - especially as these lugs rest on the edge and not the centre of the wheel.
I'm sure this traditional way can be more accurate - if time is taken and it's done properly - than the modern laser method or the drive over Trakrite. I have a Trakrite as well but found it difficult to get consistency with it.
For those wondering what we are on about, photo below:
I guess it's worth spinning the wheels to make 100% sure they are true (steel wheels) as any rim damage or kerbing is going to throw the measurement out - especially as these lugs rest on the edge and not the centre of the wheel.
I'm sure this traditional way can be more accurate - if time is taken and it's done properly - than the modern laser method or the drive over Trakrite. I have a Trakrite as well but found it difficult to get consistency with it.
For those wondering what we are on about, photo below:
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