Which way to strip paint?
Discussion
I have just got my hands on a very solid Triumph Toledo.
The underside, including under wheel arches is painted in hammerite paint. There is no underseal on top of the paint.
I want to strip the hammerite back to apply zinc primer for better protection.
I was thinking of using a zip wheel which I know are effective but that may be unecessary.
If I can strip the paint off chemically, it may be quicker?
I have only used Nitromors before and it would probably be quite expensive over the area I am looking at, so anyone else got any better suggestions?
Thanks
The underside, including under wheel arches is painted in hammerite paint. There is no underseal on top of the paint.
I want to strip the hammerite back to apply zinc primer for better protection.
I was thinking of using a zip wheel which I know are effective but that may be unecessary.
If I can strip the paint off chemically, it may be quicker?
I have only used Nitromors before and it would probably be quite expensive over the area I am looking at, so anyone else got any better suggestions?
Thanks
nitromors is probably the best as its (fairly) cheap and effective. its not nearly as good as it used to be, ive found that you have to brush it on, wait a bit and wizz it off with a wire wheel and brush a bit more on.
you can get commercial paint stripper which is cheaper (and far more aggressive) but you must wear breathing protection and gloves and what not. i bought some when i stipped my coach, and didnt and had breathing issues for weeks afterwards, and this was doing it outside.
you can get commercial paint stripper which is cheaper (and far more aggressive) but you must wear breathing protection and gloves and what not. i bought some when i stipped my coach, and didnt and had breathing issues for weeks afterwards, and this was doing it outside.
Nitromors is good but messy!!
Depending on various issues you should look at sandblasting it. This removes everything back to bear metal so you are applying the zinc primer directly to the metal, however, it needs to be applied as soon after sandblasting as possible because if it is left, any damp in the air or even your fingerprints if handle without rubber gloves on etc will leave surface corrosion on the frame in a very short space of time!
Depending on various issues you should look at sandblasting it. This removes everything back to bear metal so you are applying the zinc primer directly to the metal, however, it needs to be applied as soon after sandblasting as possible because if it is left, any damp in the air or even your fingerprints if handle without rubber gloves on etc will leave surface corrosion on the frame in a very short space of time!
Edited by Pistuphead on Wednesday 11th February 13:26
POR15 from Frost - http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp?productID=8...
Much stronger than anything you can buy in B&Q so does the job first-time.
Much stronger than anything you can buy in B&Q so does the job first-time.
just my opinion but if you are going to use any chemical form of paint stripper then use thin lines of tape to cover up any seams, if the stripper gets in there it can be a real pain to remove or neutralise and the last thing you need is it starting to bleed out after its been painted etc
snuffle said:
just my opinion but if you are going to use any chemical form of paint stripper then use thin lines of tape to cover up any seams, if the stripper gets in there it can be a real pain to remove or neutralise and the last thing you need is it starting to bleed out after its been painted etc
Very, very good point.Oh, welcome to PH!
I used Nitromors when doing bits on the MGB. I used an old paint brush and a rag, A wirebrush might also be helpful, when I did the wheels i used a wirebrush drill attachment but i wouldn't use it on panels etc. Make sure you give it a damn good clean first and get everything off you can before using any nitro.
Make sure you are VERY well ventilated or you might end up chasing Alice down the hole or running after lucy in the sky
Make sure you are VERY well ventilated or you might end up chasing Alice down the hole or running after lucy in the sky
We never, ever use chemical strippers.
It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart
) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.
As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart
) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
alsaautomotive said:
We never, ever use chemical strippers.
It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.
As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
Soda blasting is good. Obviously only really in a proffesional setting. We have used it to blast blocks and cylinder heads too. You can blast onto machined surfaces and it will not mark them, it only removes the corrosion. Very good, but expensive to set up.It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart
) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
stifler said:
alsaautomotive said:
We never, ever use chemical strippers.
It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.
As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
Soda blasting is good. Obviously only really in a proffesional setting. We have used it to blast blocks and cylinder heads too. You can blast onto machined surfaces and it will not mark them, it only removes the corrosion. Very good, but expensive to set up.It is simply not possible to remove all of the residue & the stuff is highly corrossive (not just to skin, but to steel & alloy as well!) so we could never warranty our work with chemical strippers being used (& we warranty for 6 years!)
We strip all paint with Dual Action Orbital Sanders (obviously pro equipment, not the rubbish you get at B&Q or Machine Mart
) with 80 grade paper. Soft pads for grinders are then used to get into all of the awkward areas & seams etc.As a general rule though, you need to be careful when using this method to keep the machine moving over the panel & not concentrate on one area as it will overheat the panel.
The other option (which we are currently investigating) is Soda Blasting, but I guess if you are looking to do this at home, then that's out!
Hope this helps, Al.
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