wire wheel recondition

Author
Discussion

cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Friday 23rd January 2009
quotequote all
Due to some long standing outdoor (garage had to make up steering colum from scratch as part not available- car was under cover but not indoors) my chrome wires on the passenger side have developed some rust on the rim it is the rim only as the wires seem to be stainless
AFAIK the guy I bought from put "dunlop" aftermarket (prob indian) wire wheels on which suit the car well
Is it financially more attractive to get them rechromed (and do fellow PH have good recommendations) here in the south or should i not bother and just buy to new wheels????
Thanks for your help



Reposted due to lack of answers on triumph forum...

AJAX50

418 posts

246 months

Friday 23rd January 2009
quotequote all
You could get them painted. On some cars either silver or body colour looks better than chrome, it does depend on the car.

cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Friday 23rd January 2009
quotequote all
cramorra said:
Due to some long standing outdoor (garage had to make up steering colum from scratch as part not available- car was under cover but not indoors) my chrome wires on the passenger side have developed some rust on the rim it is the rim only as the wires seem to be stainless
AFAIK the guy I bought from put "dunlop" aftermarket (prob indian) wire wheels on which suit the car well
Is it financially more attractive to get them rechromed (and do fellow PH have good recommendations) here in the south or should i not bother and just buy two new wheels???? I quite like the wires and although not original don't fancy swapping to steel or alloy rims
Thanks for your help



Reposted due to lack of answers on triumph forum...

RichB

52,583 posts

290 months

Friday 23rd January 2009
quotequote all
Best bet is to give Motor Wheel Services in Langley (Slough) a call and discuss the options. Personally I prefer grey painted wires to chrome esepcially on a true-brit car like the TR6. But that said my brother put chromed on his Healey 3000 and I have to admit they look good.

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Saturday 24th January 2009
quotequote all
Depends how deeply pitted they are. They are almost certain to be Indian made MWS wheels but if they have stainless spokes they aren't that old (mine are very rusty spokes where the chrome has fallen off!) since it isn't all that long ago that they changed to stainless spokes. If it is surface rust then a good clean would do (tried T cut?) but if not then talk to MWS. They are very helpful. Repainting over chrome wouldn't be an option but I am more in favour of painteds than chromes - easier to maintain and stronger.

mph

2,343 posts

288 months

Saturday 24th January 2009
quotequote all
Why not put the original type TR6 wheels on?

The TR6 didn't have wires as standard, the originals look better (in my opinion) and are easier to maintain.


cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Saturday 24th January 2009
quotequote all
lowdrag said:
Depends how deeply pitted they are. They are almost certain to be Indian made MWS wheels but if they have stainless spokes they aren't that old (mine are very rusty spokes where the chrome has fallen off!) since it isn't all that long ago that they changed to stainless spokes. If it is surface rust then a good clean would do (tried T cut?) but if not then talk to MWS. They are very helpful. Repainting over chrome wouldn't be an option but I am more in favour of painteds than chromes - easier to maintain and stronger.
They are definetely ss (I think from around 2000) and it is surface rust but does not come of with my chrome polish - what is T cut and where could I get it???

cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Saturday 24th January 2009
quotequote all
mph said:
Why not put the original type TR6 wheels on?

The TR6 didn't have wires as standard, the originals look better (in my opinion) and are easier to maintain.
Beause as I wrote above I do like the wires - suit the car well (IMO of course)





(and they go well with the as well not original gunmetalgrey)

Apart from that I was told that they make the ride somewhat more compfortable (as I have a telescopic shock conversion)

Thanks

RichB

52,583 posts

290 months

Saturday 24th January 2009
quotequote all
cramorra said:
lowdrag said:
Depends how deeply pitted they are. They are almost certain to be Indian made MWS wheels but if they have stainless spokes they aren't that old (mine are very rusty spokes where the chrome has fallen off!) since it isn't all that long ago that they changed to stainless spokes. If it is surface rust then a good clean would do (tried T cut?) but if not then talk to MWS. They are very helpful. Repainting over chrome wouldn't be an option but I am more in favour of painteds than chromes - easier to maintain and stronger.
They are definetely ss (I think from around 2000) and it is surface rust but does not come of with my chrome polish - what is T cut and where could I get it???
If chrome polish doesn't touch it then T-Cut probably won't either.

p.s. the best metal polich I knowof is Autosol

Edited by RichB on Saturday 24th January 21:55

cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Sunday 25th January 2009
quotequote all
RichB said:
cramorra said:
lowdrag said:
Depends how deeply pitted they are. They are almost certain to be Indian made MWS wheels but if they have stainless spokes they aren't that old (mine are very rusty spokes where the chrome has fallen off!) since it isn't all that long ago that they changed to stainless spokes. If it is surface rust then a good clean would do (tried T cut?) but if not then talk to MWS. They are very helpful. Repainting over chrome wouldn't be an option but I am more in favour of painteds than chromes - easier to maintain and stronger.
They are definetely ss (I think from around 2000) and it is surface rust but does not come of with my chrome polish - what is T cut and where could I get it???
If chrome polish doesn't touch it then T-Cut probably won't either.

p.s. the best metal polich I knowof is Autosol

Edited by RichB on Saturday 24th January 21:55
Autosol is what I used.....

Thaught I uploaded some pics b4 wonder where they had gone????

tlracing

703 posts

229 months

Monday 26th January 2009
quotequote all
Somewhere in the depths of my memory I seem to recall treating the porosity of chrome plating with chromic acid.

Now, I admit that's not terribly useful on its own as it's nigh-on impossible to buy chromic acid these days, but...

...many proprietary rust removers use oxalic acid, which is safer (but care still needs to be taken; it is after all an acid) and shouldn't harm the stainless spokes.

Oh, and oxalic acid is the constituent of 'wood bleach' that's used for lightening wood (oddly enough, given the name!) and removing staining, so reasonably well available. Check label before buying, though.

If you don't fancy that, there seems to be a lot of mention of using aluminium foil, rubbed on the rusty areas. I just tried this on an old pair of pliers and it did appear to work.

After cleaning, give the affected area a good rub with good quality wax, which should help control the problem.

cramorra

Original Poster:

1,667 posts

241 months

Monday 26th January 2009
quotequote all
tlracing said:
Somewhere in the depths of my memory I seem to recall treating the porosity of chrome plating with chromic acid.

Now, I admit that's not terribly useful on its own as it's nigh-on impossible to buy chromic acid these days, but...

...many proprietary rust removers use oxalic acid, which is safer (but care still needs to be taken; it is after all an acid) and shouldn't harm the stainless spokes.

Oh, and oxalic acid is the constituent of 'wood bleach' that's used for lightening wood (oddly enough, given the name!) and removing staining, so reasonably well available. Check label before buying, though.

If you don't fancy that, there seems to be a lot of mention of using aluminium foil, rubbed on the rusty areas. I just tried this on an old pair of pliers and it did appear to work.

After cleaning, give the affected area a good rub with good quality wax, which should help control the problem.
Thanks will try thumbup next weekends job sorted, then

tlracing

703 posts

229 months

Monday 26th January 2009
quotequote all
cramorra said:
Thanks will try thumbup next weekends job sorted, then
No prob. If you do use oxalic, remember to take care and to wash it off thoroughly afterwards.

Photo article here:

http://www.volkstorque.co.uk/vt/tech-archive/50231...

Link to MSDS sheet here:

http://cartwright.chem.ox.ac.uk/hsci/chemicals/oxa...

Edited by tlracing on Monday 26th January 21:42


Edited by tlracing on Monday 26th January 21:46

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Tuesday 27th January 2009
quotequote all
Or, following a phone call yesterday, a nice rich chap with more money than sense has changed from his 5 1/2J to 6J wheels on his E type. The four old wheels in very good order I've bought for £100 as opposed to £1,000 new. Since mine have done over 100,000 miles and are decidedly ready for the scrap heap that'll, er do nicely!beer

a8hex

5,830 posts

229 months

Tuesday 27th January 2009
quotequote all
lowdrag said:
Or, following a phone call yesterday, a nice rich chap with more money than sense has changed from his 5 1/2J to 6J wheels on his E type. The four old wheels in very good order I've bought for £100 as opposed to £1,000 new. Since mine have done over 100,000 miles and are decidedly ready for the scrap heap that'll, er do nicely!beer
It's good that the world is full of such kind benefactors. My previous set of tyres came courtesy of an owner that felt his 150 would be better suited by a set of low profile radials. Then a set of 16" wheels from a some who hadn't realised that XKs and Mk2s don't normally have the same wheels.