Chassis Paint / Protection
Discussion
Hi,
I have a Morgan.
I want to treat my chassis, to protect it from rust and the elements.
I have seen this
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I have also heard of POR15 but people say to stay away from that one.
Any suggestions of what to use.
Will
I have a Morgan.
I want to treat my chassis, to protect it from rust and the elements.
I have seen this
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I have also heard of POR15 but people say to stay away from that one.
Any suggestions of what to use.
Will
Bilt Hamber
http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html
got great reviews. I've bought some stuff from them but I haven't get around to using the rust proofing stuff yet.
http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html
got great reviews. I've bought some stuff from them but I haven't get around to using the rust proofing stuff yet.
a8hex said:
Bilt Hamber
http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html
got great reviews. I've bought some stuff from them but I haven't get around to using the rust proofing stuff yet.
I'll second that. I bought their Winter kit (bottom of the page):http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html
got great reviews. I've bought some stuff from them but I haven't get around to using the rust proofing stuff yet.
http://www.bilthamber.com/bilthamber-special-offer...
The Dynax stuff is their anti corrosion wax.
They have so many different products I found it a bot confusing to start with.
I ended up buying some of the Dynax wax and also some of their zinc based primer which looks to be the next best thing to starting off with a galvanized chassis.
They also have products for removing rust and converting rust. LOL too much for my simple brain.
I ended up buying some of the Dynax wax and also some of their zinc based primer which looks to be the next best thing to starting off with a galvanized chassis.
They also have products for removing rust and converting rust. LOL too much for my simple brain.
I'll also add another vote for Bilt Hamber - I used their etch primer on a set of wheels I refurbished, took them down to bare metal etc. and the etch primer was suggested for priming aluminium. It worked very well, and held up great for two years till I sold the car.
(As an aside, I would NEVER bother refurbishing my own wheels ever again, what a pain in the ass!)
(As an aside, I would NEVER bother refurbishing my own wheels ever again, what a pain in the ass!)
It is as others have said quite bewildering, not just different brands but different types or technologies of products. Are you going to take the chassis back to bare metal? If not then I would think many of the products would not be effective and you would be better off with wax based products like dinitrol. They do various products for inside box sections, as well as black stuff for outside.
If you do want to go back to bare metal and want an antirust primer then bondaprimer is a good traditional type product. I've used it on my alfasud inside the boot, applied by brush, and it gives a nice finish and sticks well, but I did find it took quite a while to set off. I used cellulose over the top, not sure what I'd recommend on a chassis.
If you do want to go back to bare metal and want an antirust primer then bondaprimer is a good traditional type product. I've used it on my alfasud inside the boot, applied by brush, and it gives a nice finish and sticks well, but I did find it took quite a while to set off. I used cellulose over the top, not sure what I'd recommend on a chassis.
fly fisher said:
Hi,
I have a Morgan.
I want to treat my chassis, to protect it from rust and the elements.
I have seen this
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I have also heard of POR15 but people say to stay away from that one.
Any suggestions of what to use.
Will
What is it I'm missing regards POR15, I've not heard anything bad about it but would be interested in peoples opinion on it. (because I've just done an entire chassis with the stuff!)I have a Morgan.
I want to treat my chassis, to protect it from rust and the elements.
I have seen this
http://www.rust.co.uk/epoxy-mastic.cfm
I have also heard of POR15 but people say to stay away from that one.
Any suggestions of what to use.
Will
One of the P6 owners I know locally to me has recently had his pride and joy in for a full strip and rebuild resto this year, a very nice '68 3500 that he's owned since new.
Including an acid dip on the base unit.
For years and years he's religiously used Waxoyl as an underseal and into the cavities, mainly down to ease of use. Up until about the late-1970s it was his daily charge and whilst a couple of panels succombed to tin worm (the boot valance, front valance and two c-post covers). The base unit has remained largely sound with the factory underseal & Waxoyl.
The results of the acid drip were fascinating, lots of pictures, absolutely sound except for a small perforation near one of the rear wheel arches which is a very common place for it to go. Sill boxes were absolutely sound. Very pricey but he's determined to have the car back to A1.
In terms of sealing the newly stripped base unit, he's going self-etch POR 15 which I think is probably overkill but how often do you strip a base unit to bare metal? He's still determined (despite being in his 70s) that he'll Waxoyl it every year.
As for POR15, he's delighted with it, very, very hard cure, good thickness and coverage in his opinion. The firm doing the resto have used it several times before and it was the first thing they recommended. So good, he's having the backs of the panels done with it as well once back from the shot blasters.
Would be on my list for a bare metal
Including an acid dip on the base unit.
For years and years he's religiously used Waxoyl as an underseal and into the cavities, mainly down to ease of use. Up until about the late-1970s it was his daily charge and whilst a couple of panels succombed to tin worm (the boot valance, front valance and two c-post covers). The base unit has remained largely sound with the factory underseal & Waxoyl.
The results of the acid drip were fascinating, lots of pictures, absolutely sound except for a small perforation near one of the rear wheel arches which is a very common place for it to go. Sill boxes were absolutely sound. Very pricey but he's determined to have the car back to A1.
In terms of sealing the newly stripped base unit, he's going self-etch POR 15 which I think is probably overkill but how often do you strip a base unit to bare metal? He's still determined (despite being in his 70s) that he'll Waxoyl it every year.
As for POR15, he's delighted with it, very, very hard cure, good thickness and coverage in his opinion. The firm doing the resto have used it several times before and it was the first thing they recommended. So good, he's having the backs of the panels done with it as well once back from the shot blasters.
Would be on my list for a bare metal
Edited by 215cu on Wednesday 21st January 09:38
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