Rust prevention recommendations......

[Ferg]

I have recently purchased a 37 year old vehicle. The body (chassis) is covered underneath with only surface rust and I would very much like to protect it from the onslaught of salt etc.

What would you do??

[nc107]

Always a good place to start for a few ideas:

http://www.rust.co.uk/

Lots of products available now, and lots of opinions on how to use them

[GavinPearson]

Firstly, remove every single spot of dirt on the underside.

Use an angle grinder to remove all rust.

I have found that using Jenolite removes the rust, then Kurust (goes on like Milk, dries purple) is effective at arresting anything still there.

Then use 2 coats of etch primer - I have used PPG Kondar.

I would then use Waxoyl liberally - on all exposed areas and all box sections.

[RicksAlfas]

I was recommended Bilt Hamber products so I've just ordered their "Winter Care Kit".
(It's on the special offers page).

http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html

[Ferg]

GavinPearson said:

Use an angle grinder to remove all rust.

I have found that using Jenolite removes the rust, then Kurust (goes on like Milk, dries purple) is effective at arresting anything still there.

Ah, now this is the dilemma.
I was under the impression that you need to leave SOME rust to enable a rust converter to work properly.

[Pigeon]

Kurust goes purple due to the formation of iron phosphate, it shows it's working

[austin]

How odd I was just reading about a similar subject over here on the Austin 7 forum

[52classic]

I agree with cleaning the underside thoroughly, if you wash it leave at least 3-4 days to dry. I reckon that working in a dry and warm athmosphere is important too. Not so sure about the need to remove all rust, I just settle for anything loose and flaky.

IMHO Waxoyl is the best. spray or brush but warm the can by standing it in a bucket of very hot water. Fact is that as there is no contamination of the surface of metal and you can exclude air from it - which Waxoyl does well - then it will not rust.

[Motown Junk]

I find a dehumidified, carpeted garage, keeps it at bay. donchaknow?

[RW774]

Hi ferg,seek help from a recognised specialist,
preferably a doctor.
You definetly need to get out more often,

[Ferg]

Have you got a proper suggestion, Paul???

[williamp]

On the Aston chassis, I used red oxide, then hammertite smooth, then waxoyl. 10 weeks later and no sign of rust. ....seriosuly, that should be good for 20 years

[RW774]

Hi ferge, most of the products available offer limited protection,though there is a new product range called rust bullet. I have customers who have tried it and it works well.Essentially cars 30plus years ago had little or no protection so it is a matter of lots of elbow, brushing and cleaning.I recently had a XK 150 fhc in the workshop, stored since 1964.It had one coat of acrylic on the engine bay and one on the chassis.No primer, just one coat over bare metal . When cleaned and cured ,I suggest seam sealing all the welded box sections and cavity waxing the internal boxes
Be careful of any exhaust heat resistant materials, mostly these are asbestos pads and crumble, especially on Jaguar cars.

[Ferg]

I'll try to pop in for a chat, Paul. Bear in mind that this vehicle has spent 37 years in Texas.....

[Gaspode]

RicksAlfas said:

I was recommended Bilt Hamber products so I've just ordered their "Winter Care Kit".
(It's on the special offers page).

http://www.bilthamber.com/index.html

+1. Dynax S50 is the dog's danglies.

Highly recommended