Weight of Hammer

Author
Discussion

B0wm4n

Original Poster:

16 posts

195 months

Thursday 28th August 2008
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Anyone have any idea which weight copper/hide hammer I should get for spinners on an XK120

Cheers Bowm4n

a8hex

5,830 posts

229 months

Thursday 28th August 2008
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I didn't know they came in different weights. I just bought a new one from SNG Barrats stand at XK60.

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Thursday 28th August 2008
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If you are particular about damage, they also sell a fitment to put over the spinner so you can hit that instead of the spinnersmash. Me though, after 27 years driving, I have a lovely collection of bent chromed ash trays at my housewhistle

B0wm4n

Original Poster:

16 posts

195 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
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Yeah, the Copper/Hide hammers come in a variety of weights from just under 1lb to over 4lbs so wondered which one people used.
Also anyone use any of the "spinner tools" available to save thumping the spinner itself?

Cheers B

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
I've never seen any different one, just the standard E type mallet. Look here:-

https://www.sngbarratt.com/catalogue/accessories/s...

Here's the spinner adaptor too:-

https://www.sngbarratt.com/catalogue/accessories/s...

I wonder how long this will last though in wood but then unless you are a cleaning maniac and take your wheels off often to clean them then it'll do for punctures. There is somewhere a steel one I've seen but I've googled and can't find it. If you want I'll ask my friend where he got his.

a8hex

5,830 posts

229 months

Saturday 30th August 2008
quotequote all
B0wm4n said:
Yeah, the Copper/Hide hammers come in a variety of weights from just under 1lb to over 4lbs so wondered which one people used.
Also anyone use any of the "spinner tools" available to save thumping the spinner itself?

Cheers B
I always use the wooden tool from SNG Barrat. It's made of pile wood and really needs to be seen as a consumable. I've had the car for nearly 3 years now and have just bought a replacement spinner tool for when the thing gives up the ghost. I changed the tyres a month or so ago at MWS, they used the same tool on the spinners.

I saw an advert for a metal and plastic (metal body with plastic facings) tool for three eared spinners recently. This let you put a socket and wrench onto the spinner instead of using a hammer. I was intending to research this route and see if they did on suitable for normal two eared spinners. That way I can use some consistent torque on them, I think the general idea with the hammer is just to hit the damn things as hard as you can.

I'll check the weight of my hammer when I get back home.

B0wm4n

Original Poster:

16 posts

195 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
a8hex said:
I saw an advert for a metal and plastic (metal body with plastic facings) tool for three eared spinners recently. This let you put a socket and wrench onto the spinner instead of using a hammer. I was intending to research this route and see if they did on suitable for normal two eared spinners. That way I can use some consistent torque on them, I think the general idea with the hammer is just to hit the damn things as hard as you can.

I'll check the weight of my hammer when I get back home.
You mean this one?

http://www.shop-016.de/Oldtimertools-p35h2s24-MHT-...

Edited by B0wm4n on Sunday 31st August 18:45

a8hex

5,830 posts

229 months

Sunday 31st August 2008
quotequote all
Not sure if that's the same one, buy I could but a hell of a lot of wooden tools for the price of that beaut!


Edited by a8hex on Monday 1st September 14:37

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Monday 1st September 2008
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B0wm4n said:
a8hex said:
I saw an advert for a metal and plastic (metal body with plastic facings) tool for three eared spinners recently. This let you put a socket and wrench onto the spinner instead of using a hammer. I was intending to research this route and see if they did on suitable for normal two eared spinners. That way I can use some consistent torque on them, I think the general idea with the hammer is just to hit the damn things as hard as you can.

I'll check the weight of my hammer when I get back home.
You mean this one?

http://www.shop-016.de/Oldtimertools-p35h2s24-MHT-...

Edited by B0wm4n on Sunday 31st August 18:45
Yup, that's the thing my friends has. A work of art it is too. However, the price is a bit steep! I reckon a local could make something similar quite cheaply. Since I bought some spinners not too long ago at a meeting at £12 each (slight seconds, but it was hard to spot the faults) £200 or thereabouts for this seems dear.

Huntsman

8,161 posts

256 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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a8hex said:
I think the general idea with the hammer is just to hit the damn things as hard as you can.
I dont thinks so, I was reading about this a while ago, it seems that they need a gentle nip and then are self tightening, hence the handed threads, I think the tightening action comes from the different sizes of the tapers.

I'll see if I can find the thread I read.

ETA - found it

"I read an explanation of the tightening theory of Rudge spline drive wheels sometime ago.

Think of the inside of the spinner, on the cone shaped section as one gear. Think of the end of the hub, where it contacts that surface as another gear (pinion), so we have an epicylcic gear set-like a planetary transmission.

Initially, if the wheel is not very tight, there is contact between the hub outer cone on the bottom and the bottom of the spinner cone.

As the wheel turns, the spot in contact rotates.In fact, the contact spot is continually trying to "climb up" the leading edge of the spinner.

Since the diameters of the faying surfaces are not exactly the same (or you couldn't get them together), there is a slight mechanical advantage. Each time the wheel moves forward, the spinner will rotate in the "tighten" direction until the total force is distributed evenly around the spinner cone and the friction torque to tighten it is greater than the torque available to tighten it. That's my understanding of the self tightening feature."



Edited by Huntsman on Tuesday 2nd September 15:39

lowdrag

13,025 posts

219 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
quotequote all
No, the tightening comes from the action of the wheels turning alone. Since they are turning counter-thread, they are self tightening. Just make sure you put them on the correct side! I've seen once the result of doing it wrong. Three wheels on my wagon.............

a8hex

5,830 posts

229 months

Tuesday 2nd September 2008
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I read about a man who'd managed to by a 3.4saloon as an apprentice mechanic once. The owner was fed up with the fact the wheels kept falling off it. He said he'd bought it because he was sure that the hubs must be on the wrong side. Sure enough he swapped the hubs over and never had a problem with it again. One bargain Jag, slightly tatty body work, as you say it ain't pretty when the wheels fall off.

crankedup

25,764 posts

249 months

Wednesday 3rd September 2008
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lowdrag said:
No, the tightening comes from the action of the wheels turning alone. Since they are turning counter-thread, they are self tightening. Just make sure you put them on the correct side! I've seen once the result of doing it wrong. Three wheels on my wagon.............
Occured on a Delage that I was test driving a few years back, rear offside . Happened just prior to my taking over the driving seat yikes not nice.