Discussion
Looking to replace my special edition mk1 MX5 for something a little more classic, now that I can walk/cycle to work and a car will be purely recreational use only.
I have a motorbike to give me the speed thrills, but would love to get a classic as my partner doesn't really enjoy going on the back of the bike and I find modern cars boring.
I absolutely adore the look of the GT6 (Not the Mk3, though). Love the sound they make and they do appear to be in my price range! I'm expecting to get around £3.5k for my Mazda but will look up to about £6k or so.
I do have a few questions though, for those in 'the know'.
1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
2. How reliable are they? It will be purely recreational and I don't mind tinkering at all but would prefer it to work more often than not!
3. How do you find spare parts availability and cost?
Thanks
I have a motorbike to give me the speed thrills, but would love to get a classic as my partner doesn't really enjoy going on the back of the bike and I find modern cars boring.
I absolutely adore the look of the GT6 (Not the Mk3, though). Love the sound they make and they do appear to be in my price range! I'm expecting to get around £3.5k for my Mazda but will look up to about £6k or so.
I do have a few questions though, for those in 'the know'.
1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
2. How reliable are they? It will be purely recreational and I don't mind tinkering at all but would prefer it to work more often than not!
3. How do you find spare parts availability and cost?
Thanks
YZF600R said:
Looking to replace my special edition mk1 MX5 for something a little more classic, now that I can walk/cycle to work and a car will be purely recreational use only.
I have a motorbike to give me the speed thrills, but would love to get a classic as my partner doesn't really enjoy going on the back of the bike and I find modern cars boring.
I absolutely adore the look of the GT6 (Not the Mk3, though). Love the sound they make and they do appear to be in my price range! I'm expecting to get around £3.5k for my Mazda but will look up to about £6k or so.
I do have a few questions though, for those in 'the know'.
1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
Spending £5000 on one will get you a really decent one. I wouldn't be temepted to spend more becasue I think spending more wouldn't give you anything you couldn't get for £4-5K.I have a motorbike to give me the speed thrills, but would love to get a classic as my partner doesn't really enjoy going on the back of the bike and I find modern cars boring.
I absolutely adore the look of the GT6 (Not the Mk3, though). Love the sound they make and they do appear to be in my price range! I'm expecting to get around £3.5k for my Mazda but will look up to about £6k or so.
I do have a few questions though, for those in 'the know'.
1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
YZF600R said:
2. How reliable are they? It will be purely recreational and I don't mind tinkering at all but would prefer it to work more often than not!
Use it regularly, do the rounds with the grease gun every 1500 miles (an easy job) and keep an eye on levels. It should be ok. They are remarkably simple and the whole front end hinges up and away giving you really good access.Don't be tempted to take it out in the rain too much though, as the chassis will usually have very little in the way of rust proofing, get it waxoyled and try and keep it dry and warm.
YZF600R said:
3. How do you find spare parts availability and cost?
There are a raft of parts available, but do your homework on where you buy them from as some companies will have your pants down, as others have found out to their cost.Cost of parts should be relatively low as there were many made, but beware anything tagged as GT6 specific, see if it comes from one of Triumph's other more plentiful models before coughing up.
Good luck!
IMHO that straight six is one of the sweetest sounding engines ever.
Main bearings are prone to get a bit rumbly before their time but as I recall from running T 2000's the engine is otherwise pretty viceless.
As is the GT6 really. For £5K you can be very very fussy. I would aim for a privately owned original looking one. The big bonnet means that underbody and chassis are well visible so there's a tendancy for them to get plastered with stonechip stuff and underseal so I would try to avoid these cars.
If you can cope with a cabin that will seem really small after your Mazda then a GT6 will be a pleasure to own.
Main bearings are prone to get a bit rumbly before their time but as I recall from running T 2000's the engine is otherwise pretty viceless.
As is the GT6 really. For £5K you can be very very fussy. I would aim for a privately owned original looking one. The big bonnet means that underbody and chassis are well visible so there's a tendancy for them to get plastered with stonechip stuff and underseal so I would try to avoid these cars.
If you can cope with a cabin that will seem really small after your Mazda then a GT6 will be a pleasure to own.
I'm sure this can be engineered out these days, but didn't they have swing arm rear suspension with some rather 'interesting' handling traits?
One of my university (vehicle dynamics) lecturers used to work at Triumph and succeeded in rolling a GT6 on completely flat skid pan.
Not necesarily a bad thing - I went from an MX5 to something with a little more potential to bite, myself. Always rather liked the looks (and noise) of the GT6, but bear in mind you may not be able to drive it in quite the same way.
One of my university (vehicle dynamics) lecturers used to work at Triumph and succeeded in rolling a GT6 on completely flat skid pan.
Not necesarily a bad thing - I went from an MX5 to something with a little more potential to bite, myself. Always rather liked the looks (and noise) of the GT6, but bear in mind you may not be able to drive it in quite the same way.
Edited by Chris71 on Wednesday 20th August 13:02
Many GT6s came with either doughnut driveshafts and lower lateral links effectively making a crude but effective double wishbone arrangement, or a swing spring rear suspension with very little rear roll stiffness which was also a neat way to eliminate a lot of the fixed transverse spring's shortcomings. Unless you're a complete loon you'll be safe enough 
Fighting my way through the fog called a brain, wasn't the dangerous model the Mk 1 and didn't they revise the suspension for the Mk 2? Also I seem to recall that the Mk 1 was 1600 cc like the Vitesse. Anyway, as regards reasonable cars for sale there are few here on Pistonheads; look at this one for example:-
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/623798.htm
Wiki has a piece on them so read here:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_GT6
Finally, I wouldn't go into buying a specific car without first joining the marque club where you'll find not only a wealth of information and helpful people but also usually someone who, for a fee, will go through the car and give you advice so you aren't landed with a pup. Money well spent IMHO. Try here:-
http://www.gt6triumph.co.uk/
They're lovely cars if you get a good one. Best of luck.
http://www.pistonheads.com/sales/623798.htm
Wiki has a piece on them so read here:-
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Triumph_GT6
Finally, I wouldn't go into buying a specific car without first joining the marque club where you'll find not only a wealth of information and helpful people but also usually someone who, for a fee, will go through the car and give you advice so you aren't landed with a pup. Money well spent IMHO. Try here:-
http://www.gt6triumph.co.uk/
They're lovely cars if you get a good one. Best of luck.
Edited by lowdrag on Wednesday 20th August 10:39
Try and drive a few and at varying speeds as scuttle shake is an issue on these cars and you may be suprised how crude some cars feel.
Check the outriggers on the chassis and sills and rear wheelarches for rot.
For your budget though you should only be considering immaculate ones.
The driveshafts can be troublesome check for good rotoflex couplings.
If you get a good one they are lovely cars with lots of tuning potential, we had one for a few years and loved it.
Poor mans E Type IMHO.
Check the outriggers on the chassis and sills and rear wheelarches for rot.
For your budget though you should only be considering immaculate ones.
The driveshafts can be troublesome check for good rotoflex couplings.
If you get a good one they are lovely cars with lots of tuning potential, we had one for a few years and loved it.
Poor mans E Type IMHO.
Edited by racingsnake on Wednesday 20th August 12:40
lowdrag said:
Fighting my way through the fog called a brain, wasn't the dangerous model the Mk 1 and didn't they revise the suspension for the Mk 2?
The Mk2 look pretty much the same as the Mk1 but with different rear suspension, then the Mk3 looked different from the Mk2 but had similar suspension.
First post on the forum, but hey I love my GT6 so had to reply.
> 1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
As previously stated spending £5000 on one will get you a really decent one. If cash was limited I would go for bodywork over mechanics.
> 2. How reliable are they? It will be purely recreational and I don't mind tinkering at all but would prefer it to work more often than not!
My MkIII has been my daily drive for the last three years with no major problems.
Minor snags include…
1)Broken fuel pump.
2)New water pump.
3)Clutch master cylinder.
4)Blocked fuel line.
5)New HT leads.
> 3. How do you find spare parts availability and cost?
Spares are plentiful; many parts are interchangeable with other triumph models. I have a triumph Vitesse that somebody had put a 2.5 PI unit in. This has been supplying spares for both my GT6 and Marcos GT for the last couple of years.
Other advice:
If possible get one with overdrive, It makes motorway driving more enjoyable.
Make sure you can fit in one, I’m 6’2” and just fit with a smaller steering wheel.
Warning! The cockpit gets a tad warm in summer!!
If not already done, upgrade the suspension. If your test driving a car, aim for a bump or two in the road and see what the back end does. Scared the hell out of me! Got sorted very shortly afterwards.
I wouldn’t drop a 2.5L engine in a GT6, from my experience they don’t rev as freely as the 2L which for me spoils the character of a GT6.
Finally always carry a can of WD40, the engine is a very exposed. Found myself running on 3-4 cylinders instead of 6 after driving through a deeper than expected puddle!
Wrench.
> 1. If I spend £4-6k on a GT6, is it likely to depreciate much? For this amount, can I expect to get a good one?
As previously stated spending £5000 on one will get you a really decent one. If cash was limited I would go for bodywork over mechanics.
> 2. How reliable are they? It will be purely recreational and I don't mind tinkering at all but would prefer it to work more often than not!
My MkIII has been my daily drive for the last three years with no major problems.
Minor snags include…
1)Broken fuel pump.
2)New water pump.
3)Clutch master cylinder.
4)Blocked fuel line.
5)New HT leads.
> 3. How do you find spare parts availability and cost?
Spares are plentiful; many parts are interchangeable with other triumph models. I have a triumph Vitesse that somebody had put a 2.5 PI unit in. This has been supplying spares for both my GT6 and Marcos GT for the last couple of years.
Other advice:
If possible get one with overdrive, It makes motorway driving more enjoyable.
Make sure you can fit in one, I’m 6’2” and just fit with a smaller steering wheel.
Warning! The cockpit gets a tad warm in summer!!
If not already done, upgrade the suspension. If your test driving a car, aim for a bump or two in the road and see what the back end does. Scared the hell out of me! Got sorted very shortly afterwards.
I wouldn’t drop a 2.5L engine in a GT6, from my experience they don’t rev as freely as the 2L which for me spoils the character of a GT6.
Finally always carry a can of WD40, the engine is a very exposed. Found myself running on 3-4 cylinders instead of 6 after driving through a deeper than expected puddle!
Wrench.
I had a GT6 for a year and it was a terrible and VERY expensive experience so I'm a little bias however you can gain by my loss if you want to (random notes now)
they do look lovely
buy or borrow the "Original" book for full info
I've owned a few classic cars most as daily-drives, the GT6 was meant to one
the cabins are very small (and I'm only 5'5" and had the MK3 which has a higher windscreen)
they get increadibly hot inside in the summer and not overwarm in the winter (I tried to get mine fixed but it wasn't much better)
hatchback instead of a boot isn't a great idea (same with BGT I owned)
despite being a 2litre they're not that quick or fast even for a classic
handling is interesting because of seperate chassis and suspension (both were redone on mine)
spare parts quality can be absymal despite where you buy them as a lot are made for one company
only trade place I can recommend to go for info, repairs and buying is http://www.jyclassics.co.uk/index.htm (my car was the blue Mk3) altho' there is a top rated place not many miles away from me that should be avoided
£4,500-£5,000 should be enough to get you an excellent example leaving £1,500 for repairs or maintainence and servicing
In short, unlike me, save many, many £0,000s and buy a Heritage-shelled Spridget for £6,000, it's a better car, better spares, more specialist to chose from, very good ones are getting more difficult to find so will depreciate less but if you're really worried about depreciation don't buy a car
I hope some of this has been of use to you, whatever car you buy look at and drive as many examples as you can, go to a specialist for advice and test drive the best example they have so you know how a good one should drive
Buy the best you can as believe me it's beyond expense to put a bad one right despite its buying price and how much you spend trying to put it right
they do look lovely
buy or borrow the "Original" book for full info
I've owned a few classic cars most as daily-drives, the GT6 was meant to one
the cabins are very small (and I'm only 5'5" and had the MK3 which has a higher windscreen)
they get increadibly hot inside in the summer and not overwarm in the winter (I tried to get mine fixed but it wasn't much better)
hatchback instead of a boot isn't a great idea (same with BGT I owned)
despite being a 2litre they're not that quick or fast even for a classic
handling is interesting because of seperate chassis and suspension (both were redone on mine)
spare parts quality can be absymal despite where you buy them as a lot are made for one company
only trade place I can recommend to go for info, repairs and buying is http://www.jyclassics.co.uk/index.htm (my car was the blue Mk3) altho' there is a top rated place not many miles away from me that should be avoided
£4,500-£5,000 should be enough to get you an excellent example leaving £1,500 for repairs or maintainence and servicing
In short, unlike me, save many, many £0,000s and buy a Heritage-shelled Spridget for £6,000, it's a better car, better spares, more specialist to chose from, very good ones are getting more difficult to find so will depreciate less but if you're really worried about depreciation don't buy a car
I hope some of this has been of use to you, whatever car you buy look at and drive as many examples as you can, go to a specialist for advice and test drive the best example they have so you know how a good one should drive
Buy the best you can as believe me it's beyond expense to put a bad one right despite its buying price and how much you spend trying to put it right
I've had about every verson of this car. here is a GENERAL overview. Many year/options arent year OR MK specific so you have to look the cars over.
MK1 have a rather querky rear end that should be modified. Upgrading to 1500 spitfire bits is easy and parts are plentiful. Typically the 'swingspring' rear will be identified by 4 bolts above the rear and the ability of the spring to slide. If you see 6 bolts its most likely been upgraded. Head has exhaust and inlet inline and had fairly small ports. Considered the best looking, worst handling as new.
MK2 Have 'rotoflex' rears with lower assemblies like a tr-4,5,6 IRS. Good handling but feel heavy and have that launching feel like a lotus Elan or Elva with the same basic setup. Engine can be of either style depending on year. CHECK the rear as very late MK2 can have the MK3 rear setup and early MK2 can have the MK1 setup!
MK3 have transverse leaf basicly identical to late spitfire and are the best handling. While the MK2 rear is most desirable if mainly because at rest the tires sit on camber and dont look odd. Rubber bumperetes can be removed easily if you hate them (are they USA only?) and if I remember older bumpers are a bolt on. Hood hinging is different (like MK4 and 1500 spitfire) and are easier to adjust.
These cars FEEL very fast and can be made so for the insane. My favorite was refitted with a 2.5 from a TR-6 and fitted with webers. Webers (triples or 32/36 duals) do NOT fit underhood and really there is no room.
Fitting a 2.5 requires...
cutting the firewall to allow starter motor (mirror of existing cut)
removal of front valve cover stud change to bolt (as on a 2.0 motor)
fitting of the 2.0 engine plate (direct bolt)
fitting of 2.0 flywheel and clutch (direct bolt)
fitting of 2.0 harmonic balancer/pully and fan (direct bolt)
Custom oilpan. This can NOT be avoided as the 2.5 oil pan is too deep in the front so it rests on the frame (not the sump) and the drainplug hits the frame. I achieved this by taking a GT oilpan heating the bottom and making swells for the counterbalances of the longer stroke motor.
Also the fitting of GT engine mounts and brackets
Also TR-6 standard intakes will not fit underhood as they rise slightly from engine to carb where as GT-6 fall slightly from engine to carb.
The result is a TR-6 motor with 10 lbs reduced from the flywheel/balancer causing it to rev like the 2.0 , yet considerable more torque. With FI it would be quite a dangerous beast and I'll bet the FI might fit underhood. Fi systems are rare and spendy here in the states.
Needed add on for any version is quality shocks such as koni. Since they dont have lever shocks you dont need any adapters its a simple refit as stock.
Everything on this car is easy to get to, simple to work on and fairly cheap with one exception. The tranny. It is fragile and you should hunt spares even if you buy a car with a perfect one. Changing to a TR-6 tranny is not going to happen without major frame changes so dont let anyone fool you into thinking its an option, its not even close. The tranny is easy to ID as it has a alloy bell housing that is rather deep compaired to spitfire. I have never heard negatives to the overdrive addon other then purchase cost.
Don't let anyone fool you, this car as stock is much nicer to drive then a spriget plus its easier to upgrade and make actually fast. It is also much easier to fit in (im 6'2") It is however harder to source specific parts so you need to find out the differences with spitfire as MOST are interchangable. Parts that are GT specific tend to be more robust then spitfire and rarely need changing (such as bigger spindles and brakes).
Spriget guys will tell you how they are more fun and faster then a DB-6 or E-type if you give them a chance, just wave at them in your rear view when you cross 100mph. Track times do not translate to street fun most times so ignore that. The GT-6 is about IRS, 6 cylinder torque and fastback styling something sprigets just cant offer.
As with any spitfire/GT beware grinding bearings in the rear shafts if they arent greased they will wipe the shaft and you will have to source a new one. Most are easy to find but I think Rotoflex cars might be specific. Skip that car unless its very cheap.
Avoid fat tires as the IRS really doesnt like that! The Rotoflex rear would be much better if wide tires are your preference.
MK1 have a rather querky rear end that should be modified. Upgrading to 1500 spitfire bits is easy and parts are plentiful. Typically the 'swingspring' rear will be identified by 4 bolts above the rear and the ability of the spring to slide. If you see 6 bolts its most likely been upgraded. Head has exhaust and inlet inline and had fairly small ports. Considered the best looking, worst handling as new.
MK2 Have 'rotoflex' rears with lower assemblies like a tr-4,5,6 IRS. Good handling but feel heavy and have that launching feel like a lotus Elan or Elva with the same basic setup. Engine can be of either style depending on year. CHECK the rear as very late MK2 can have the MK3 rear setup and early MK2 can have the MK1 setup!
MK3 have transverse leaf basicly identical to late spitfire and are the best handling. While the MK2 rear is most desirable if mainly because at rest the tires sit on camber and dont look odd. Rubber bumperetes can be removed easily if you hate them (are they USA only?) and if I remember older bumpers are a bolt on. Hood hinging is different (like MK4 and 1500 spitfire) and are easier to adjust.
These cars FEEL very fast and can be made so for the insane. My favorite was refitted with a 2.5 from a TR-6 and fitted with webers. Webers (triples or 32/36 duals) do NOT fit underhood and really there is no room.
Fitting a 2.5 requires...
cutting the firewall to allow starter motor (mirror of existing cut)
removal of front valve cover stud change to bolt (as on a 2.0 motor)
fitting of the 2.0 engine plate (direct bolt)
fitting of 2.0 flywheel and clutch (direct bolt)
fitting of 2.0 harmonic balancer/pully and fan (direct bolt)
Custom oilpan. This can NOT be avoided as the 2.5 oil pan is too deep in the front so it rests on the frame (not the sump) and the drainplug hits the frame. I achieved this by taking a GT oilpan heating the bottom and making swells for the counterbalances of the longer stroke motor.
Also the fitting of GT engine mounts and brackets
Also TR-6 standard intakes will not fit underhood as they rise slightly from engine to carb where as GT-6 fall slightly from engine to carb.
The result is a TR-6 motor with 10 lbs reduced from the flywheel/balancer causing it to rev like the 2.0 , yet considerable more torque. With FI it would be quite a dangerous beast and I'll bet the FI might fit underhood. Fi systems are rare and spendy here in the states.
Needed add on for any version is quality shocks such as koni. Since they dont have lever shocks you dont need any adapters its a simple refit as stock.
Everything on this car is easy to get to, simple to work on and fairly cheap with one exception. The tranny. It is fragile and you should hunt spares even if you buy a car with a perfect one. Changing to a TR-6 tranny is not going to happen without major frame changes so dont let anyone fool you into thinking its an option, its not even close. The tranny is easy to ID as it has a alloy bell housing that is rather deep compaired to spitfire. I have never heard negatives to the overdrive addon other then purchase cost.
Don't let anyone fool you, this car as stock is much nicer to drive then a spriget plus its easier to upgrade and make actually fast. It is also much easier to fit in (im 6'2") It is however harder to source specific parts so you need to find out the differences with spitfire as MOST are interchangable. Parts that are GT specific tend to be more robust then spitfire and rarely need changing (such as bigger spindles and brakes).
Spriget guys will tell you how they are more fun and faster then a DB-6 or E-type if you give them a chance, just wave at them in your rear view when you cross 100mph. Track times do not translate to street fun most times so ignore that. The GT-6 is about IRS, 6 cylinder torque and fastback styling something sprigets just cant offer.
As with any spitfire/GT beware grinding bearings in the rear shafts if they arent greased they will wipe the shaft and you will have to source a new one. Most are easy to find but I think Rotoflex cars might be specific. Skip that car unless its very cheap.
Avoid fat tires as the IRS really doesnt like that! The Rotoflex rear would be much better if wide tires are your preference.
Edited by KerryStagmer on Sunday 31st August 14:27
Edited by KerryStagmer on Sunday 31st August 14:51
Kerry obviously gives some good points above but why he felt the need to fall into the old Triumph against MG (GT6 v. Spridget this time) is a shame - please don't let's argue about tribe loyalities, I have none anyway, I don't support any marque per say (just look at my profile) all classics have many faults and most including these two are slow by even the standards of the budget modern cars
Having had both Spridgets and a GT6 (with fully refurbed suspension) IMHO the Spridgets are a better drive and more fun but each to their own Kerry must really like the GT6 to have so many of them
The cars, and spares situation, are different in the UK to America - new and s/h good or acceptable MG parts are very plentiful the Triumph parts very much less so, I definitly know about that unfortunatly
I've learnt that Triumph owners/supporters are very loyal to the marque but marque enthusiasts are not always fully realistic about their marque and others, we should all give warts and all advice about different models to newcomers to be fair to them
Freindly banter about different marques is fine but please no arguements or rivalry - as you mentioned putting in a bigger engine, I was looking at a Midget with V8 and AWD but that's not a standard Spridget is it
We don't have to worry about top end in this country as we have a top speed limit of 70mph and loads of speed cameras to remind us of the limits that's one reason classics are fun, you can be driving hard and still keeping below the speed limits
Having had both Spridgets and a GT6 (with fully refurbed suspension) IMHO the Spridgets are a better drive and more fun but each to their own Kerry must really like the GT6 to have so many of them
The cars, and spares situation, are different in the UK to America - new and s/h good or acceptable MG parts are very plentiful the Triumph parts very much less so, I definitly know about that unfortunatly
I've learnt that Triumph owners/supporters are very loyal to the marque but marque enthusiasts are not always fully realistic about their marque and others, we should all give warts and all advice about different models to newcomers to be fair to them
Freindly banter about different marques is fine but please no arguements or rivalry - as you mentioned putting in a bigger engine, I was looking at a Midget with V8 and AWD but that's not a standard Spridget is it
We don't have to worry about top end in this country as we have a top speed limit of 70mph and loads of speed cameras to remind us of the limits that's one reason classics are fun, you can be driving hard and still keeping below the speed limits
Edited by SB - Nigel on Saturday 30th August 12:33
SB - Nigel said:
In short, unlike me, save many, many £0,000s and buy a Heritage-shelled Spridget for £6,000, it's a better car, better spares, more specialist to chose from, very good ones are getting more difficult to find so will depreciate less but if you're really worried about depreciation don't buy a car
I'm not sure that I did...I wonder if its as polarized outside of Europe as it is here in the states. I guess it must be! For the most part here(USA) people tend to own triumphs and jags OR MG and healey. In this case I married the 'other side' and so have a traveller and many healeys within the family.
I myself have owned quite a few sprigets and MG's though I must admit they were almost all later 1500 engined stuff. I do really regret selling the bugeye and MGA twincam but few stuff stays with me for too long. If I were to have recomended a different car I think I would say buy a ratty E coupe. In the US they are still obtainable for 10-12ooo usd and certainly remove the chance of value dropping! But thats not the point ,this was about the Triumph GT-6....
BTW I did alter the list for required changes to go 2.5 as I forgot to include gt-6 engine mounts and brackets. Also TR-6 standard intakes will not fit underhood as they rise slightly from engine to carb where as GT-6 fall slightly from engine to carb. This is bascily the same info required to put this engine in a spitfire with the addition of gt-hood and radiator. For the spitfire change its also nice to have gt front suspension for brakes and such.
The differences between MG Jag and Triumph classics in the USA and UK are being highlighted here by Kerry
The cars were different from new because of Federalisation and their values today differ so much because so many more were sold in the USA than UK
Over here most people would avoid a ratty E-Type at any cost and be looking to buy starting around £15,000
I’m basing my comments on ownership and use in the UK of a GT6 starting just over two years ago and ownership of my latest Spridget starting just over 12 months ago so they relate to the OP who is considering buying now (and I've owned an MX-5)
As such I recommend the Spridget over the GT6 – the BGT is an option but the Spridget (especially the 1275) is sharper, nippier and more sporting than either coupe (and it has a good drop-top for the dry days usually more in winter now)
The GT6 separate chassis and suspension were very vintage feeling and handling compared to the Spridget
A Heritage shell is a body shell made brand new using the original equipment so based on it’s year of manufacture should give you a good guide to how little rust it should have (e.g. my car’s body was made 5 years ago) these have never been available for the GT6 so body rot is a real issue
If the 2.5 engine is wanted in a GT6 then it may be better to buy one with that work already done (this does maybe prove my point that the GT6 is slower than expected and the Spridgets are more fun at all but top end speeds)
As I say each to their own – if the OP wanted to they are very welcome to meet up and go out in my Spridget and I’ll give full details, warts and all on the Spridget and GT6 ownership
Coming from an MX-5 to GT6 or other classic the OP will not realise that occasional only use will not benefit the owner or the car as much as more regular use especially with the British climate
The cars were different from new because of Federalisation and their values today differ so much because so many more were sold in the USA than UK
Over here most people would avoid a ratty E-Type at any cost and be looking to buy starting around £15,000
I’m basing my comments on ownership and use in the UK of a GT6 starting just over two years ago and ownership of my latest Spridget starting just over 12 months ago so they relate to the OP who is considering buying now (and I've owned an MX-5)
As such I recommend the Spridget over the GT6 – the BGT is an option but the Spridget (especially the 1275) is sharper, nippier and more sporting than either coupe (and it has a good drop-top for the dry days usually more in winter now)
The GT6 separate chassis and suspension were very vintage feeling and handling compared to the Spridget
A Heritage shell is a body shell made brand new using the original equipment so based on it’s year of manufacture should give you a good guide to how little rust it should have (e.g. my car’s body was made 5 years ago) these have never been available for the GT6 so body rot is a real issue
If the 2.5 engine is wanted in a GT6 then it may be better to buy one with that work already done (this does maybe prove my point that the GT6 is slower than expected and the Spridgets are more fun at all but top end speeds)
As I say each to their own – if the OP wanted to they are very welcome to meet up and go out in my Spridget and I’ll give full details, warts and all on the Spridget and GT6 ownership
Coming from an MX-5 to GT6 or other classic the OP will not realise that occasional only use will not benefit the owner or the car as much as more regular use especially with the British climate
SB - Nigel said:
Coming from an MX-5 to GT6 or other classic the OP will not realise that occasional only use will not benefit the owner or the car as much as more regular use especially with the British climate
I'd just like to impress this point upon the OP. Regular use is the key, if you want something that will go when you want it to regardless of Spridget or GT6. Obviously avoid the damp and salty roads as much as possible, but regular use is essential. P.S - get the GT6.
As for the debate of modern or vintage, if you want to drive it the MX-5 is bulletproof compaired to all of this stuff. I have (well the wife..) an R package MX-5 lowered about 3 inches. It simply keeps on going after 170,000 miles of hard use. Other then having to find ways around all speed bumps I just love the car. I just cant consider it a classic as its so very modern compaired to the other cars.
Ratty jags are very available here and XJ-6 and XJ-12's litter the junkyards in large numbers. Often they are just unwanted and were drivable when scrapped. Even XJS v12 HE are quite common in local junkyards here in the east coast. I think you can buy a v12 HE engine out of a car for $125.00usd if you pull it yourself (any Crazy Ray's yard in the Baltimore, MD area). The E-types are all gone, but parts are pretty easy to come by for $$$. I just purchased an entire fronts suspension from an e-type with brakes, hubs and torsion bars for $125.00 plus $65.00 or so shipping.
Ratty jags are very available here and XJ-6 and XJ-12's litter the junkyards in large numbers. Often they are just unwanted and were drivable when scrapped. Even XJS v12 HE are quite common in local junkyards here in the east coast. I think you can buy a v12 HE engine out of a car for $125.00usd if you pull it yourself (any Crazy Ray's yard in the Baltimore, MD area). The E-types are all gone, but parts are pretty easy to come by for $$$. I just purchased an entire fronts suspension from an e-type with brakes, hubs and torsion bars for $125.00 plus $65.00 or so shipping.
I had a MkII GT6 for about four years in the early 80s and loved it (following on from a MkI Spitfire). You will never ever get an answer to what sort of car is better - they are all good/bad in their own sweet/evil way, and that is part of the fun. As many have said above - try them out to see what you like, and use them when you get them.
One thing I will add, is to keep the universal joints in the drive shafts in good nick. These little parts don't cost much, but they can give you real problems if slightly worn. Replacing the rubber doughnuts is a real b
h. You can (could?) get U/Js that have a blank for a grease nipple fitted - well worth it.
Enjoy
One thing I will add, is to keep the universal joints in the drive shafts in good nick. These little parts don't cost much, but they can give you real problems if slightly worn. Replacing the rubber doughnuts is a real b
h. You can (could?) get U/Js that have a blank for a grease nipple fitted - well worth it.Enjoy
This thread has moved on a bit!! For my money the spridge is comparable with the Spitfire, The GT6 with a an MGB. If that straight 6 doesn't do anything for you then the field is wide open but if you can't afford a TR6 which seems likely at this money, then a GT6 it would be for me.
Scuttle shake is less of a problem with the hard roof compared with the Spit but the chassis, door and bonnet design can make them a bit prone to rattles.. but the whole point of these cars is that you don't need to be going that fast to really enjoy yourself!
As for regular use, well OK but regular and enthusiastic fettling is more important. A good, modern ignition system and the biggest battery that will fit on the tray is the first step, then full replacement of every hose on the car. That way you have a good chance of achieving the level of reliability you want. Constant battle without a garage or at least a car port though!
For your money and in this market you shouls get a first rate GT6 and I envy you the challenge of finding the right one!
Best of luck with the project.
Scuttle shake is less of a problem with the hard roof compared with the Spit but the chassis, door and bonnet design can make them a bit prone to rattles.. but the whole point of these cars is that you don't need to be going that fast to really enjoy yourself!
As for regular use, well OK but regular and enthusiastic fettling is more important. A good, modern ignition system and the biggest battery that will fit on the tray is the first step, then full replacement of every hose on the car. That way you have a good chance of achieving the level of reliability you want. Constant battle without a garage or at least a car port though!
For your money and in this market you shouls get a first rate GT6 and I envy you the challenge of finding the right one!
Best of luck with the project.
It would be interesting to know if the OP has given up or got fed up with different views expressed or got the classic
IMO the GT6 compares to both the BGT and Spridget because of GT6 and Spridgets lack of width in the cabin
I found with both my latest Spridget and the GT6 that putting new water hoses which used to be a good idea was no longer a good idea because the replacent hoses (and kits) craze after only 12 months so if the existing/old ones are good leave them on (only last month someone commented that I should replace my top hose and they found it hard to believe it was only just over 12 months old)
Battery and ignition system
all part of a FULL service/maintainance to me
As I said before the GT6 is a lovely looking car
IMO the GT6 compares to both the BGT and Spridget because of GT6 and Spridgets lack of width in the cabin
I found with both my latest Spridget and the GT6 that putting new water hoses which used to be a good idea was no longer a good idea because the replacent hoses (and kits) craze after only 12 months so if the existing/old ones are good leave them on (only last month someone commented that I should replace my top hose and they found it hard to believe it was only just over 12 months old)
Battery and ignition system
all part of a FULL service/maintainance to meAs I said before the GT6 is a lovely looking car
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