Carb' renovated
Discussion
Got my zenith carb' back today from Burlens, asked for a mechanical restoration service and was advised it would be about 5 weeks lead time.
So spot on 5 weeks and a truely excellent job of work done all within the projected cost. Feels really good to recieve such splendid service and thanks to fellow PH'ers who recommended Burlens to me.
So spot on 5 weeks and a truely excellent job of work done all within the projected cost. Feels really good to recieve such splendid service and thanks to fellow PH'ers who recommended Burlens to me.
stigproducts said:
I've got a carb in with them now. I wondered what had happened to it after 3 weeks and called up; " 6 weeks minimum guv"
They must be good to get away with that- glad it's going to be worth the wait!
They must be good to get away with that- glad it's going to be worth the wait!
No, in actual fact it is not so much about being good, although they are actually superb, it's about refusing to compromise on quality and grow larger.
Very, very old company and you just have to wait: but it is well worth it!
I don't want to overstate the quality of work on my carb' but I was amazed yesterday after fitting to my Bayliss Thomas the old girl sprung into life for the first time in two months within seconds of turning her over. Just a matter of float hight adjustment now, for which they supplied the washers. 
Out today to give the old girl a good run, for 40 miles or so everything was great. Stopped for a brew and set back off home, engine conked out 5/6 times on way home. It was petrol starvation, tickle the carb and off we go to cover more miles. As miles went by problem got worse and in the end would only run for a few hundred yards. Lucky by then I was at home. It seems that the cork insert in the petrol filler cap was the problem, as soon as I removed it all was fine.
Why the engine was OK for the first 40 miles I have no idea. Just one of the mysteries in life I guess.
Why the engine was OK for the first 40 miles I have no idea. Just one of the mysteries in life I guess.
crankedup said:
Out today to give the old girl a good run, for 40 miles or so everything was great. Stopped for a brew and set back off home, engine conked out 5/6 times on way home. It was petrol starvation, tickle the carb and off we go to cover more miles. As miles went by problem got worse and in the end would only run for a few hundred yards. Lucky by then I was at home. It seems that the cork insert in the petrol filler cap was the problem, as soon as I removed it all was fine.
Why the engine was OK for the first 40 miles I have no idea. Just one of the mysteries in life I guess.
Why the engine was OK for the first 40 miles I have no idea. Just one of the mysteries in life I guess.
Whne you start out CK your tank has enough fuel and a small amount of air at atmospheric pressure to permit the pump to draw the fuel from the tank.
If you fit a cap that is not vented to allow air in as fuel exits, it will vacuum lock the tank and the pump cannot draw any further air.
Some tanks have their own breather and if this is the case with your car, it must be blocked.
Clearly the further you travel the lower the fuel level will become, and hence the more air volume you must have to prevent vacuum lock.
Yep, thanks Jith, altho my old girl has'nt got a pump just works on gravity. The filler cap has indeed got a small breather hole. I shall make sure thats clear today, it was the cork 'gasket' that was causing the airlock tho, I think.
Next fun is to sort the clutch out. It apparently runs a cone type clutch,the handbook states its got a leather covering. It engages very much like an Austin 7, ie hair trigger. Its either in or out, when I try to slip the clutch when reversing the more revs i try the more it will 'bunnyhop'. Going forwards is the same, its also very crunchy on gear changes altho it will hold the car in gear at a standstill without creeping forwards so cluctch is working (of sorts)Suggestions appreciated.
Next fun is to sort the clutch out. It apparently runs a cone type clutch,the handbook states its got a leather covering. It engages very much like an Austin 7, ie hair trigger. Its either in or out, when I try to slip the clutch when reversing the more revs i try the more it will 'bunnyhop'. Going forwards is the same, its also very crunchy on gear changes altho it will hold the car in gear at a standstill without creeping forwards so cluctch is working (of sorts)Suggestions appreciated.
crankedup said:
It apparently runs a cone type clutch Suggestions appreciated.
Cone clutches usually do have a leather covering. The bullnose was corks in oil I think.
I'm not so sure about maintainance and adjustment of cone clutches.
I think trying to slip one is not good practice.
Two questions based on my 12/50 experience.
Do you have a separate gear box with a layshaft between clutch and gearbox, or is it integral?
This may help you to see what is going on if you lift the floor boards.
Do you have a clutch stop? This can help up changes, but can mess up down changes if set up wrong.
If you have one, one needs to only half depress the clutch pedal.
I'm assuming you are double declutching correctly.
The clutch stop will also eliminate any crunch when engaging 1st from a stand still, if fully depressed.
Some of the issues may not be down to the clutch, but down to other parts, or the operator
Thanks Tvrgass, I'l have to have a nose around and get back regards the setup, still learning my way around this beasti.
Some of the troubles are most likely down to my driving, altho I do double clutch. First proper drive of the B.T and so some technique has to be learnt like all old cars. What I meant by slip the clutch is really in practice me engaging the clutch in a gentle fashion with a little mechanical sympathy, so not riding the clutch or anything of that sort.
It seems that the clutch and gearbox are two separate components, info I have found tells me to ensure the splined clutch shaft is kept well greased. Clutch withdrawal trunnion should be kept oiled and also clutch operating cross shaft oiled. Pound to a penny these items have'nt see oil or grease for yonks (guessing)so perhaps when I've done this things may improve.
I cannot see any clutch stops at all.
Some of the troubles are most likely down to my driving, altho I do double clutch. First proper drive of the B.T and so some technique has to be learnt like all old cars. What I meant by slip the clutch is really in practice me engaging the clutch in a gentle fashion with a little mechanical sympathy, so not riding the clutch or anything of that sort.
It seems that the clutch and gearbox are two separate components, info I have found tells me to ensure the splined clutch shaft is kept well greased. Clutch withdrawal trunnion should be kept oiled and also clutch operating cross shaft oiled. Pound to a penny these items have'nt see oil or grease for yonks (guessing)so perhaps when I've done this things may improve.
I cannot see any clutch stops at all.
Edited by crankedup on Tuesday 20th February 15:54
Vety nice, StigP. I assume it's for the Mini ? (It's probably obvious to the majority of the posters here, but I've never had a Mini.)I notice the non-thermostatic jets.
Burlen are excellent. They also have extensive records on SU/Stromberg kit. They managed to identify the pair of 2" SU's on my Dolomite Sprint as a period aftermarket mod and then supply all the bits to refurb them. It did'nt go any faster, though, just used more fuel !
Burlen are excellent. They also have extensive records on SU/Stromberg kit. They managed to identify the pair of 2" SU's on my Dolomite Sprint as a period aftermarket mod and then supply all the bits to refurb them. It did'nt go any faster, though, just used more fuel !
The whole thing sits at an angle when bolted to the manifold. So that stud is bent in order for the air filter to sit level. I am pretty sure it is meant to be like that.
See how the dashpot it at a different orientation from the air inlet (and the stud) and the float chamber. The floatchamber, when in situ is horizontal.
yes it is for a Mini.
See how the dashpot it at a different orientation from the air inlet (and the stud) and the float chamber. The floatchamber, when in situ is horizontal.
yes it is for a Mini.
Edited by stigproducts on Sunday 25th February 19:41
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