Welding vs new shell

[Church of Noise]

As the bodywork of the MGB is getting a bit tired, I'm already starting to plan how to fix it.
To do this, there are a number of options:

1) Replace and/or weld the bad bits (mainly the edge on the front wings, just below the windscreen, the doors and the boot), get the car straightened as a previous owner probably was a bit too big for the car (this will require new sills, though these are good) or
2) Buy a Heritage shell (mucho £££!)
3) Buy a shell with a number of new panels

It'll all cost some money, but I'd like to hear opinions, especially from people who've been there before.

Alex

[eccles]

to be strictly above board, there are registration issues if you use another old shell, not sure about a brand new shell though. these might be a factor in favour of doing up your existing shell.

[ARH]

If you can weld fix it, if you need to pay a welder buy a new shell. welding will cost a lot of cash to get done. I would go for a new shell as it will be far less time consuming to fix. You will need a respray which ever way you go.

at present with the prices of MGB's why not just buy good one and sell yours it will be by far cheapest option, and will not take 5 years to complete.

[wadgebeast]

I've spent best part of £15000 on my MG B over the last 9 years, most of it on welding and replacing body panels. Should have just bitten the bullet years ago, got rid of it as a project for someone who can weld and got another one.

Got a decent car now though....

[215cu]

Unless it's a rare variant or you have bottomless pockets or you can weld then get rid and buy as mint a one as you can afford.

[M3 Mitch]

Without seeing the rust damage it's hard to say. Have a couple of reputable shops give you an estimate.

It's hard to estimate rust damage since there is always a lot of thin metal near the perforations.

Also depends on how good you want to make the car, how much if any of the work you can tackle yourself, your budget, how long you are willing to take the car off the road for, etc.

If it's bent in the middle due to overloading/overstressing, probably a new shell is needed to make it right.

Selling on or using as a parts car may be your best bet.

[52classic]

I'm concerned that you say the previous owner was too big for the car and that the sills need replacing even though they are not rusted......

Sounds to me like some distortion in the shell! Do the doors open & close OK?

If the rust is confined to specific panels that could be replaced then it is quite a reasonable undertaking to learn to weld and do the work yourself at home.

Brace the shell securely and remove the panels one at a time and replace. Thay way you avoid ending up with just a pile of rust on the garage floor. If you are not confident about welding, still buy a MIG and learn to at least 'tack up' your work. It's not hard to find someone to moonlight at weekends and evenings provided that you make the work easy for them. It's the preparation that takes the time and costs the money in a restoration shop!

There are plenty of books about repair techniques in general and MGB's in particular.

Any distortion in the shell though and it's not really a DIY proposition. Getting the car to look and feel right again is very skilled.

If you buy a Heritage shell don't underestimate the time and effort in changing everything over - Are the bits and pieces really good enough to live in what is effectively a new car? Seats, carpets, instruments, locks and handles?

Start replacing them, either because they are not good enough or because you couldn't get them off the old shell, then budget for door, window and other seals. The car could cost you a fortune!

Personally I think that if you are going to enjoy an old car it is best with a patina about it. 'Well used and used well' That's what you'll end up with if you repair what you've got. However I admire a rebuild if it's done properly but you have to set a high standard for yourself which means megga money - That route will cost you far more than the market value of the finished vehicle.

[Church of Noise]

52classic said:

I'm concerned that you say the previous owner was too big for the car and that the sills need replacing even though they are not rusted......

Sounds to me like some distortion in the shell! Do the doors open & close OK?

Yes, they close properly. What I meant was that the car leans slightly to the driver's side (I've noticed this with a lot of these cars!). The car isn't bent as someone else mentioned though

52classic said:

If the rust is confined to specific panels that could be replaced then it is quite a reasonable undertaking to learn to weld and do the work yourself at home.

Brace the shell securely and remove the panels one at a time and replace. Thay way you avoid ending up with just a pile of rust on the garage floor. If you are not confident about welding, still buy a MIG and learn to at least 'tack up' your work. It's not hard to find someone to moonlight at weekends and evenings provided that you make the work easy for them. It's the preparation that takes the time and costs the money in a restoration shop!

There are plenty of books about repair techniques in general and MGB's in particular.

Any distortion in the shell though and it's not really a DIY proposition. Getting the car to look and feel right again is very skilled.

Yes, this is what I was planning. I know someone who can weld very well (not entirely for free I presume, but shouldn't be too bad). It's more a matter of replacing/repairing pannels really.

52classic said:

If you buy a Heritage shell don't underestimate the time and effort in changing everything over - Are the bits and pieces really good enough to live in what is effectively a new car? Seats, carpets, instruments, locks and handles?

Start replacing them, either because they are not good enough or because you couldn't get them off the old shell, then budget for door, window and other seals. The car could cost you a fortune!

Personally I think that if you are going to enjoy an old car it is best with a patina about it. 'Well used and used well' That's what you'll end up with if you repair what you've got. However I admire a rebuild if it's done properly but you have to set a high standard for yourself which means megga money - That route will cost you far more than the market value of the finished vehicle.

And those are the exact reasons why I would prefer not to get a Heritage shell: it's expensive, additional parts will make the whole project even more expensive and (perhaps the most important of all): it'll loose it's originality. I don't want a concours car, I prefer to drive it like I stole it

Thanks for the advice so far!

[sheepy]

Church of Noise said:

52classic said:

I'm concerned that you say the previous owner was too big for the car and that the sills need replacing even though they are not rusted......

Sounds to me like some distortion in the shell! Do the doors open & close OK?

Yes, they close properly. What I meant was that the car leans slightly to the driver's side (I've noticed this with a lot of these cars!). The car isn't bent as someone else mentioned though

Caused by years of being driven with only the driver in the car. Mine now does this after seven years of ownership, and I'm not a fat lad!!

Chirch of Noise said:

52classic said:

If the rust is confined to specific panels that could be replaced then it is quite a reasonable undertaking to learn to weld and do the work yourself at home.

Yes, this is what I was planning. I know someone who can weld very well (not entirely for free I presume, but shouldn't be too bad). It's more a matter of replacing/repairing pannels really.

I'm doing a slow process of repairs for my baby. Two years ago, I had the lower-rear wings done by a mate. Now I've got a new bonnet (will paint it in the spring) and next will be a driver's door. If I get the time, a new driver's wing will also go on this year. "Rolling Restoration" is how I'm phrasing it

I also don't want or need a concours car. I prefer to drive mine (currently with half-an-inch of water in the passenger footwell!!!)

[KING HERALD]

eccles said:

to be strictly above board, there are registration issues if you use another old shell, not sure about a brand new shell though. these might be a factor in favour of doing up your existing shell.

I believe it has to be a brand new shell from the original manufacturer, with receipt, to retain the original registration, or off you go for SVA, and an old MGB will never pass an SVA test, despite there being thousands of identical MGB's legally on the roads right now. Such is the state of automobile legislation right now.

The easiest way would be not to tell anybody it was a new shell, just a repaired original, but that would be dishonest......