Restarting A Series engine after 25+ years - tips?
Discussion
Hello,
Just about at the point of trying to start an A-Series engine after it's been sat for over 25 years in a dry domestic garage to move onto a trailer, etc, but not to get back on the road immediately
Current plan is:
Have I missed anything?
Just about at the point of trying to start an A-Series engine after it's been sat for over 25 years in a dry domestic garage to move onto a trailer, etc, but not to get back on the road immediately
Current plan is:
- Fit inline filter to carb fuel pipe
- Remove air filter (in case a squirt of Holts Easy start needed)
- Take plugs out, put a small squirt of motor oil in each cylinder (might have some 2-stroke oil on the shelf thinking about it)
- Turn engine over manually a few times to check it's not seized and prime the oil pump perhaps
- Refit plugs
- Quick prayer
- Try and start it
Have I missed anything?
I think for the cost of it, I;d be changing the oil and filter. The properties of the oil will have changed in that time.
Also, after cranking over a few times by hand, I'd do the same using the starter motor with the coil off.
I actually know someone who started a 1275 after around 15 years a few weeks ago, I thought that was a long time. His had issues with the rocker gear, something sheared off so he had to change "something" - not that familiar with the a series so can't say what that was.
Also, after cranking over a few times by hand, I'd do the same using the starter motor with the coil off.
I actually know someone who started a 1275 after around 15 years a few weeks ago, I thought that was a long time. His had issues with the rocker gear, something sheared off so he had to change "something" - not that familiar with the a series so can't say what that was.
25 years is a long time, I'd put oil in the cylinders, turn it over by hand to ensure it's free and then put more oil in the cylinders and leave it a while to soak into the piston rings. Spin as much of it out as you can before trying to start it.
I inherited a lawnmower from my Dad and the rings didn't seal well due to corrosion, a mixture of oil/diesel/WD40, basically whatever I had to hand and a good (couple of days) soak cured it.
As for the fuel tank, lines & carb, they definitely will need a thorough cleaning, tank may even be corroded under any crud so best to use an auxiliary tank to try to start it with.
I inherited a lawnmower from my Dad and the rings didn't seal well due to corrosion, a mixture of oil/diesel/WD40, basically whatever I had to hand and a good (couple of days) soak cured it.
As for the fuel tank, lines & carb, they definitely will need a thorough cleaning, tank may even be corroded under any crud so best to use an auxiliary tank to try to start it with.
Is it points ignition or electronic?
If points you may need to clean them up and check the gap and timing.
With either, while the plugs are out, leave one of the plugs on the lead and check for a spark.
I’d check the float and needle valve are not gummed up as suggested, if stuck open it will flood the carb.
Don’t forget the clutch plate may be stuck after 25 years.
I bought a laid up MG Metro years ago, cleaned the points, fresh fuel and battery, started first time.
If points you may need to clean them up and check the gap and timing.
With either, while the plugs are out, leave one of the plugs on the lead and check for a spark.
I’d check the float and needle valve are not gummed up as suggested, if stuck open it will flood the carb.
Don’t forget the clutch plate may be stuck after 25 years.
I bought a laid up MG Metro years ago, cleaned the points, fresh fuel and battery, started first time.
Honestly, I wouldn't even try if you're just trying to get onto a trailer - you risk doing more damage than the convenience is worth.
Better to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Better to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Edited by larrylamb11 on Friday 28th November 09:11
Edited by larrylamb11 on Friday 28th November 10:13
larrylamb11 said:
here's some of the problems you're might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free) piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
Apart from that though? engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free) piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
larrylamb11 said:
Honestly, I wouldn't even try if you're just trying to get onto a trailer - you risk doing more damage than the convenience is worth.
Better to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Sound like Jonny Smith's checklist for one of his Better to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Turbobanana said:
CanAm said:
Surely it can't be any bigger than a Morris Minor? Get some big blokes and push it on the trailer.
It could. It could be a Marina / Ital. Or even a Montego.
CanAm said:
Turbobanana said:
CanAm said:
Surely it can't be any bigger than a Morris Minor? Get some big blokes and push it on the trailer.
It could. It could be a Marina / Ital. Or even a Montego.Engine
petrol:
1.3 L A-Plus I4
1.6 L S-series I4
2.0 L O-series I4
2.0 L O-series turbo I4
diesel:
2.0 L Perkins Prima/Rover MDI I4
Turbobanana said:
CanAm said:
Turbobanana said:
CanAm said:
Surely it can't be any bigger than a Morris Minor? Get some big blokes and push it on the trailer.
It could. It could be a Marina / Ital. Or even a Montego.Engine
petrol:
1.3 L A-Plus I4
1.6 L S-series I4
2.0 L O-series I4
2.0 L O-series turbo I4
diesel:
2.0 L Perkins Prima/Rover MDI I4
larrylamb11 said:
Honestly, I wouldn't even try if you're just trying to get onto a trailer - you risk doing more damage than the convenience is worth.
Better to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Depending on construction, rusted up fuel tank and feed pipeBetter to winch it on.
25 years idle is a hell of a long time and really wants to be approached calmly and methodically to give it the best chance of living again. You can't do that if you're rushing to get onto a trailer.
How long it takes will be determined by what you find as you start fiddling with it. You might have it running in an afternoon, it might take weeks.... just depends on the condition and you can't know that until you start digging. I wouldn't attempt to start digging until you can do so in a workshop environment.
With something that's been idle that long (and I've recommissioned quite a few old motors that have been off the road that long), here's some of the problems you might (and I have!) encounter -
engine seized (piston rings corroded to the bores - needs carefully soaking with ATF & acetone mix over several weeks to have a chance of coming free)
piston rings stuck (you won't know about this but it'll smoke when you eventually get it going)
engine oil degraded (it can turn into a gelatinous gloop when left for years)
water in the sump (you can get this from condensation and it sits in the bottom of the sump, under the oil so is the first thing the oil pump sucks up)
seized ancillaries (anything from distributor through alternator and water pump can be seized)
crystalised coolant (time expired coolant eventually turns into a solid crystalised gel that blocks waterways and obviously doesn't cool)
starter motor not working (can be both gummy solenoid, stuck starter motor brushes and seized starter motor)
no ignition (corrosion on fuses or corroded contacts in ignition switch)
no spark (points will inevitably be corroded)
no fuel (if the fuel tank had been left with any fuel in it this will have turned into a horrible varnish that will have blocked the pipes and ruined the tank)
rotten fuel hoses (after this long the fuel hoses will be perished to the point of failure)
no fuel pump (pretty much guaranteed an electric fuel pump won't work and a mechanical one will have a rock hard diaphragm that won't actually pump)
blocked / gummy carbs (as a result of old fuel and corrosion)
seized carb linkages (corroded pivots and bushes)
stuck valves (you have to expect valves to stick open on something sitting that long)
no clutch hydraulics (corroded cylinders and failed seals - none of the hydraulics will work)
stuck clutch (clutch plate corroded to flywheel meaning it won't disengage even if the hydraulics work)
seized brakes (as above, none of the hydraulics will work)
wheels that won't turn (see seized brakes)
flat tyres that won't hold air....
There'll be plenty of other things I've forgotten too.
I wouldn't even consider trying to get a car that's been idle for that long to start and drive onto a trailer. I'd go suitably equipped, with the kit to winch it onto a trailer. Only once I'd got it back to the workshop would I consider starting to see if I could get it to even turn over by hand.....
Edited by larrylamb11 on Friday 28th November 09:11
Edited by larrylamb11 on Friday 28th November 10:13
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