Car underbody... what to do?
Discussion
When the bodywork is done the A35 will be going back to the dippers for another chemical clean, and then have an immersion E-Coat, just like new modern cars get in the factory.
After it's returned it will go back on the spit and I will seam seal all the joins, welds, and panel laps with a PU product. Probably either Tigerseal or Sikaflex.
After that I'm a bit stuck for what to do.
My initial plan was to use Bilt Hamber epoxy mastic, then fill the cavities and sills and other hard to reach areas with Dynax S50. I've been in touch with Mr Hamber and he has informed me that this would be a sure fire way to elongate the life of the car as much as possible and that the epoxy mastic bonds well to e-coat without the need for any other intermediate coatings.
The more i look into it though the more im liking the look/appearance of Upol Raptor or gravitex (which needs a painted top coat) to give that sort of rough dimple underbody appearance, which will also help conceal some of the welds/repairs/sealer.
What's peoples thoughts on here?
I could well be just overthinking it and in fact it doesn't "really" matter that much.
After it's returned it will go back on the spit and I will seam seal all the joins, welds, and panel laps with a PU product. Probably either Tigerseal or Sikaflex.
After that I'm a bit stuck for what to do.
My initial plan was to use Bilt Hamber epoxy mastic, then fill the cavities and sills and other hard to reach areas with Dynax S50. I've been in touch with Mr Hamber and he has informed me that this would be a sure fire way to elongate the life of the car as much as possible and that the epoxy mastic bonds well to e-coat without the need for any other intermediate coatings.
The more i look into it though the more im liking the look/appearance of Upol Raptor or gravitex (which needs a painted top coat) to give that sort of rough dimple underbody appearance, which will also help conceal some of the welds/repairs/sealer.
What's peoples thoughts on here?
I could well be just overthinking it and in fact it doesn't "really" matter that much.
I saw a Youtube video where a chap had used Raptor under the wings of a 2CV and it flaked off in a relatively short time. No idea how he prepped it though. I'd stick with Bilt Hamber or Dinitrol products.
Of course, you should paint it body colour and then put a mirror underneath at car shows
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Of course, you should paint it body colour and then put a mirror underneath at car shows
.Skyedriver said:
THIS^
but remember, all this extra material, coatings wax etc are adding weight to a car with not much power.
I'm not too worried about that. We're probably talking 10kg in the grand scheme of things. but remember, all this extra material, coatings wax etc are adding weight to a car with not much power.
The original 948 and asthmatic zenith carb are long gone and I have a freshly built 1293A on twin SUs ready to drop in for a power hike from about 35bhp to probably around 75bhp.
I'll stick with the Bilt Hamber route i think as it gives me the most confidence in corrosion protection long term. With all the work done, and the car being a "lifer" i just want to ensure I don't have any corrosion issues in 10 years time.
A stonechip/dash effect would be nice but ultimately the underside is never seen so it doesn't really matter so long as the metal is being well protected and corrosion free
Edited by Ambleton on Saturday 19th October 09:47
stichill99 said:
Having watched many episodes of Retropower on a Sunday evening I would say the cars they build are absolutely top grade and after a zinc spray they use Raptor on a lot of projects! I don't think they would use it if it just 'flaked off'
From memory, they hot zinc spray the whole underside creating a zinc shell, which means the raptor is adhering to the zinc.Hol said:
The guy who did my shell warned me off Raptor or any other bed liner products as they aren’t actually sticky and flake if the surface is not perfect.
I've used tintable Raptor. For the most part it has worked well having used the Cortina on the road in most weather conditions (except snow) and haven't had any major issues other than the jacking points where it had chipped off but I have since added some rubber to my jacks pad to prevent any damage to paint.
I did however have a problem recently when I repainted the transmission tunnel after modifying it, the raptor flaked off but that was an operator error rather than a product. I've since sorted that problem but haven't been out on the road yet.
If I had to do it all again I'd use Raptor but ideally I'd have the shell on a spit as spraying the underside of a car a few inches above yourself isn't fun!
Edited: I do sometimes regret painting it white underneath as it never looks clean but I'd have regretted painting it black too - the duality of having too many options!
I did however have a problem recently when I repainted the transmission tunnel after modifying it, the raptor flaked off but that was an operator error rather than a product. I've since sorted that problem but haven't been out on the road yet.
If I had to do it all again I'd use Raptor but ideally I'd have the shell on a spit as spraying the underside of a car a few inches above yourself isn't fun!
Edited: I do sometimes regret painting it white underneath as it never looks clean but I'd have regretted painting it black too - the duality of having too many options!
Edited by Retro_Jim on Monday 21st October 09:28
I have used tintable Raptor. It is very good, especially if you are trying to show it off and not hide it.
Of course nothing will stick to crappy old greasy bituminous oily underseal except more crappy bituminous underseal.
Any surface to be painted needs prep. obviously.
Here is the underside of an E type on a rotisserie that I painted body colour recently in metallic grey Raptor (OSG) after body sealing.
It was all clean fresh metal.
It has now been painted and I am assembling it. Not reason why it wont last a very long time.
You need to wax the box sections from the inside too after assembly, otherwise its all a waste of time-as cars rot from the inside out.
Of course nothing will stick to crappy old greasy bituminous oily underseal except more crappy bituminous underseal.
Any surface to be painted needs prep. obviously.
Here is the underside of an E type on a rotisserie that I painted body colour recently in metallic grey Raptor (OSG) after body sealing.
It was all clean fresh metal.
It has now been painted and I am assembling it. Not reason why it wont last a very long time.
You need to wax the box sections from the inside too after assembly, otherwise its all a waste of time-as cars rot from the inside out.
Ambleton said:
It appears UPOL are mid rebrand of Raptor. It used to be marketed solely as a bed liner, but it appears they're changing it to "tough protective coating".
I like the look of the Dinitrol 447
For 447 you need a good compressor get it on the car nicely. I have a cheap SGS 50l compressor and it wasn't able spray it on to the desired factor dimple style finish. Gravitex was easier to work with. A professional set up (or just getting a pro to do it!) then 447 would work very well. I like the look of the Dinitrol 447
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