Morris Traveler woodwork
Discussion
Hi Guys,
Was in the pub chatting about cars and the topic turned to the wood on a Morris Minor Traveler. If you had spent the money on having one restored, which method of preservation is going to be the best. One bloke reckoned that yacht varnish would be best, while another, older chap, suggested that teak oil would give greater protection. Bearing in mind the fact that there is bound to be a number of people on here who have had/restored Travelers, which method would you recommend and why? Thanks for all and any positive responses.
Was in the pub chatting about cars and the topic turned to the wood on a Morris Minor Traveler. If you had spent the money on having one restored, which method of preservation is going to be the best. One bloke reckoned that yacht varnish would be best, while another, older chap, suggested that teak oil would give greater protection. Bearing in mind the fact that there is bound to be a number of people on here who have had/restored Travelers, which method would you recommend and why? Thanks for all and any positive responses.
Stuff that soaks in (teak oil) will always be better than a surface treatment - so long as you keep doing it.
I recall a documentary many years ago filmed in Stratford-upon-Avon where they were talking about old, half-timbered houses. Then a Morris Traveller drove past and they had the opportunity to call it a half-timbered car...
I recall a documentary many years ago filmed in Stratford-upon-Avon where they were talking about old, half-timbered houses. Then a Morris Traveller drove past and they had the opportunity to call it a half-timbered car...
Back last century, you could buy wood preservers which actually worked.
My uncle had a traveller which was done with Cuprinol IIRC.
'Yacht varnish' covers a multitude of products.
Teak oil can be a bit variable too.
I think the wood was originally ash? Some woods work better with oil than others.
I've had wooden boats. If I had a wooden car, I'd keep it indoors when not in use.
UV kills most varnish.
My uncle had a traveller which was done with Cuprinol IIRC.
'Yacht varnish' covers a multitude of products.
Teak oil can be a bit variable too.
I think the wood was originally ash? Some woods work better with oil than others.
I've had wooden boats. If I had a wooden car, I'd keep it indoors when not in use.
UV kills most varnish.
Panamax said:
Stuff that soaks in (teak oil) will always be better than a surface treatment - so long as you keep doing it.
Exactly this, any varnish will crack, lift over time and this will let water in behind it and it will stay there and turn the wood black and start to rot it. Remember on a Traveler the wood is structural. I had a couple of Travellers back in the late ‘80s. They were old cars then but the timber was some the least rotten parts of the body (obviously along with the aluminium bits). I’ve never stopped to wonder how Morris treated the timber originally, or what timber they used, but there must be people out there who do know what and how.
Yertis said:
I had a couple of Travellers back in the late ‘80s. They were old cars then but the timber was some the least rotten parts of the body (obviously along with the aluminium bits). I’ve never stopped to wonder how Morris treated the timber originally, or what timber they used, but there must be people out there who do know what and how.
Creosote mixed with used engine oil 
The wood is ash, as noted above. The factory treatment was varnish, and most you will see around are still varnished because it works and looks nice. Lots of coats - at least a dozen - starting with several thinned ones and working up, is the pukka way to do it.
You do have to keep on top of the varnish to keep the rot out, but once you have laboured to replace the wood - not an easy task - you have a strong incentive not to let it rot again! Replacing the timber is not a job for the faint hearted.
As also noted, well looked after the wood decays more slowly than the rest of the car. My oldest friend has a Traveller that has been in his family from new. It has been welded from end to end several times over but has only, as I recall, needed the wood replacing once. (May also have the odd back door though).
You do have to keep on top of the varnish to keep the rot out, but once you have laboured to replace the wood - not an easy task - you have a strong incentive not to let it rot again! Replacing the timber is not a job for the faint hearted.
As also noted, well looked after the wood decays more slowly than the rest of the car. My oldest friend has a Traveller that has been in his family from new. It has been welded from end to end several times over but has only, as I recall, needed the wood replacing once. (May also have the odd back door though).
Edited by dontlookdown on Sunday 18th August 09:18
I would be looking at a two pack varnish, perhaps this....
https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
ferret50 said:
I would be looking at a two pack varnish, perhaps this....
https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
Boats aren't built using Ash though, which is used in cars because of its ability to flex, and polyurethane and two-pack varnishes are too hard and will crack on a car Ash frame and will be a nightmare to refinish. https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
Epifanes is an oil-based yacht varnish, and is regarded by most as the best.
Panamax said:
Stuff that soaks in (teak oil) will always be better than a surface treatment - so long as you keep doing it.
I recall a documentary many years ago filmed in Stratford-upon-Avon where they were talking about old, half-timbered houses. Then a Morris Traveller drove past and they had the opportunity to call it a half-timbered car...
Was that Jonathan Meades presenting?I recall a documentary many years ago filmed in Stratford-upon-Avon where they were talking about old, half-timbered houses. Then a Morris Traveller drove past and they had the opportunity to call it a half-timbered car...
aeropilot said:
ferret50 said:
I would be looking at a two pack varnish, perhaps this....
https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
Boats aren't built using Ash though, which is used in cars because of its ability to flex, and polyurethane and two-pack varnishes are too hard and will crack on a car Ash frame and will be a nightmare to refinish. https://www.epodex.com/en/product/2k-polyurethane-...
Boat builders use two pack varnish on floaty things, so would work on a Moggie.
Epifanes is an oil-based yacht varnish, and is regarded by most as the best.
Pine hull was painted white with a two pack epoxy paint, upper was varnished with a two pack gloss varnish....both survived more than two years in the water, then the bilge pump failed......
A problem that most Moggies will seldom suffer.
If you are going for oil dont use teak oil, use Danish oil. The the finish is far more hard wearing and can build up a really good layer of surface protection but also allows the oil to seep deep into the wood exactly where the water would go. It can be topped up on the car more easily than varnish.
That said, if I was doing it, I would probably go for pressure treated ash and then many coats and sandings of 2 pack polyurethane varnish on all edges as it will need no maintenance for a longer time and I imagine any travellers are garaged these days.
That said, if I was doing it, I would probably go for pressure treated ash and then many coats and sandings of 2 pack polyurethane varnish on all edges as it will need no maintenance for a longer time and I imagine any travellers are garaged these days.
The back of the frame where it meets the panels must be the most vulnerable? It's obviously coated and treated before installation but while you can access 3 sides of the timber to refresh the outer finish water must get into the joint eventually?
Story about Traveller woodwork. My dad had a '66 Traveller when I was born in '74 and working in an ex BMC, then British Leyland dealer he had acquired several full sets of Traveller frames which were stored in the unused 2 second bedroom. When I wad born this became my bedroom and the frames were cut up and burnt as firewood.
Story about Traveller woodwork. My dad had a '66 Traveller when I was born in '74 and working in an ex BMC, then British Leyland dealer he had acquired several full sets of Traveller frames which were stored in the unused 2 second bedroom. When I wad born this became my bedroom and the frames were cut up and burnt as firewood.
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