Classic car under seal recommendation

[chappj]

I’m doing a mechanical overhaul of a 1970 MGB and would like to refresh the underbody protection whilst running gear / suspension is all removed.

Can anyone recommend a good product?

Thanks

[Riley Blue]

Bilt Hamber products are highly regarded: https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-ub/

[Escort3500]

Another vote for Bilt Hamber; excellent stuff (and much better than Waxoyl).

I’ve heard good things about Lanoguard too.

[jon-yprpe]

Dinitrol - 3125 for cavities and 4941 for underneath (or 445). Very good, goes on nicely and dries but also repairs.

[Sebring440]

jon-yprpe said:

Dinitrol - 3125 for cavities and 4941 for underneath (or 445). Very good, goes on nicely and dries but also repairs.

Repairs....?

[catso]

I've been using Buzzweld for my Land Rover restoration, not finished yet so can't advise on the long term but the products seem good to me.

https://www.buzzweld.co.uk/

[v8250]

+1 for Buzzweld, it's a very well thought through product range and works superbly. I completed a full back to bare metal chassis refurb' on the Land Rover two years ago, the chassis still looks brand new. Most LR owners use Buzzweld.

Another thumbs up for Dinitrol product range, have been using for years on the classic cars. All their products are easy to apply and long lasting.

Lanoguard is not a chassis/underbody underseal. It's only a light protection seal that works for a shorter period of time and requires respraying on a periodic basis, say every 12mths.

[nismo48]

jon-yprpe said:

Dinitrol - 3125 for cavities and 4941 for underneath (or 445). Very good, goes on nicely and dries but also repairs.

+1

[LotusOmega375D]

Do people still use underseal? It used to be the go-to product for hiding a bodged repair or worse. I thought everybody now paints the entire bodyshell with top coat, so that they can park over a mirror and let everyone admire their car’s sparkling underside.

[chappj]

LotusOmega375D said:

Do people still use underseal? It used to be the go-to product for hiding a bodged repair or worse. I thought everybody now paints the entire bodyshell with top coat, so that they can park over a mirror and let everyone admire their car’s sparkling underside.

I was originally considering doing exactly this as it would look great (if anybody ever looked), however I’ve come to my senses that this would significantly increase the hours I need to spend on what was supposed to only be a mechanical overhaul (body has no rust).

Thanks for the recommendations so far. Keep them coming!

[Skyedriver]

Depending upon the finish you require Dinitrol or one of the Bilt Hamber products, Think one of them even do a clearcoat wax rather than brown or black

[austina35]

I've used dulux weathershield for years. I paint the underside with 3 "thick coats" and leave it to dry for a week between each coat.

[lowdrag]

Whatever happened to the "go-to" product in the day, Ziebart? Many people had their new car done by them in the day.

[Mercky]

Ziebart was good but they used to spray the entire engine bay with the black stuff. Looked awful.

[hilly10]

nismo48 said:

jon-yprpe said:

Dinitrol - 3125 for cavities and 4941 for underneath (or 445). Very good, goes on nicely and dries but also repairs.

+1

+1

[yellow elan]

I have just bought an mgbgt which has been off the road since 2011. Prior to this a proper body restoration had taken place and protected with Dinitrol. Result no rust after been standing 12 years. I also have a 1949 landrover which i have used lanoguard on which is excellent as long as you dont mind your vehicle smelling of sheep for a couple of days. An authentic perfume for an old landy!

[Lester H]

Garage owner told me of a customer who used an A35 van for work as a painter and decorator. Remember that these were made as far as E reg - James Hunt had one. To the point: twice yearly, he - not Hunt, the painter- steam cleaned the underside ( he would have the tools) and brush painted it with the part used, hence nearly empty tins of paint, mixed together. Some were such old stock that they were lead based. The MOT tester could hardly believe how pristine and original it was. Secondly, corporation buses had to be steam cleaned, and aluminium sprayed as a pre- inspection condition. The Transport Manager of the provincial bus company had a 3.4 Jag ( the classic one) ,so twice yearly when the Leyland Atlanteans were being readied he told the lads to do the Jag ‘ on the side’ and no doubt the bought them several pints. I saw the Jag a few times and the underside was better than the good upper bodywork.

Edited by Lester H on Thursday 28th September 18:12

Edited by Lester H on Thursday 28th September 18:18